So Much for the John Muir Trail

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Oubliet
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Re: So Much for the John Muir Trail

Post by Oubliet »

Consider doing the Theodore Solomon's Trail. Among the many other choices out there. I did a segment from Clover Meadow to Courtwright Reservoir several years ago. It was nice to not encounter anyone until we got close to Florence Lake and the Dinkey Lakes.

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AlmostThere
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Re: So Much for the John Muir Trail

Post by AlmostThere »

I would say that the majority of the people who reserved permits did not ever pick them up, and that people who had groups surrendered several spots to put them up for grabs, every single day.

If one or two people were all I had, I'd go walk in. I bet you would get something particularly if you show up midweek.

Actually... I wouldn't do the JMT at all. I get permits for other trailheads and do 5-14 days elsewhere in the Sierra, every year. I don't need to watch bears take people's food any more.
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AlmostThere
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Re: So Much for the John Muir Trail

Post by AlmostThere »

Oubliet wrote:Consider doing the Theodore Solomon's Trail. Among the many other choices out there. I did a segment from Clover Meadow to Courtwright Reservoir several years ago. It was nice to not encounter anyone until we got close to Florence Lake and the Dinkey Lakes.

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Do part of it... be really careful of the part where it supposedly descends into Tehipite. The switchbacks are no longer maintained. And the sections of trail in Crown Valley area were heavily damaged by the Rough Fire, no doubt there are a zillion burnt up downed trees throughout and the trail crews haven't even gone out there in years. Also do not time that so that you reach the Kings River and are unable to cross it, ie early spring, and then have to backtrack over "the b*tch" -- people get rescued out of Tehipite each year when they go down there.
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longri
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Re: So Much for the John Muir Trail

Post by longri »

AlmostThere wrote:I would say that the majority of the people who reserved permits did not ever pick them up...
I'm curious, what makes you think that? I've stood in line before for no shows and it was never anything like 50%.
AlmostThere wrote:I don't need to watch bears take people's food any more.
Is the JMT really the place to see bears in the Sierra? I've never seen a bear on the JMT and I've walked it a bunch of times, including seven times in the last seven years.

I've seen bears so rarely in the Sierra that I often think of them as mythical creatures.
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AlmostThere
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Re: So Much for the John Muir Trail

Post by AlmostThere »

Oh, we were harassed every night by bears on the JMT. One bear came back four times. Had to start going way off somewhere random in the forest to avoid it. We picked up much trash that was obviously someone else's shredded food supply - people don't usually tear up their stuff with their teeth. Camping near other people only meant the bear went from them to us, or vice versa.

I never fail to get walk up permits in Yosemite. One summer I got walk ins three times running, for three weeks. Stayed in the backpacker camp for a night, showed up in the morning around ten, got another permit, went back out on the trail. Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, Parker Pass, and Lyell Canyon going south.

I do see on the Yosemite website that the requests for JMT permits skyrocketed last year though - I don't think I would bother, that just means that even if 2/3 of them show up it'll be that much more crowded.
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Re: So Much for the John Muir Trail

Post by AlmostThere »

I've seen bears everywhere -- Sonora Pass, all over Yosemite, in Kings Canyon we nearly hit one on the road and saw several hiking up to Paradise from Road's End. There were bear tracks through the campsite and a tooth mark in my little Plano full of lures in the morning once. We met a bear in the middle of a trail as I came around a corner - almost shook his hand. That was almost as much fun as the time I stepped on a coiled up rattlesnake - the adrenalin just surges through you like lightning. But the bear shook his head and walked away to tear up a pine tree across the river.
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powderhound
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Re: So Much for the John Muir Trail

Post by powderhound »

Good tip about the Theodore Solomons Trail! I was just looking at that actually. It seems like a good option to get off the beaten path.

I didn't see any bears on the JMT in 2013, but I did encounter people who saw bears at the end of Lyell Canyon just before it starts climbing to Donahue Pass. A bear actually got someone's food there when I was camped higher up, as they packed too much and decided to hang what wouldn't fit into the canister. I wouldn't be surprised if more bears were becoming habituated along the trail now that it's seeing so many people though.

I've seen bears in Yosemite Valley and the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River (the Pate Valley area is full of both bears and rattlesnakes), but I've never seen as many bears as I have in Kings Canyon/Sequoia NP. On the drive in to Crescent Meadows one year I saw 3 just crossing the road. In 2015 I hiked the Big SEKI loop clockwise from Road's End and saw at least 5 before meeting up with the JMT at the end of Le Conte Canyon.

I got a late start on my first day of the SEKI loop and didn't reach Granite Lake until the sun was setting. My friend and I set up our tents and were about to start cooking with headlamps on when a giant, golden-colored bear with cubs wandered out to the lake for a drink, about 50 yards from us. I was really glad to not be alone then, even if it was just a black bear...a really, really big one...with cubs. We just kept seeing more bears, especially around Simpson Meadow, until we hit the JMT. We didn't see any bears after that.
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Re: So Much for the John Muir Trail

Post by schmalz »

Hiked the JMT nobo last year in early June. That permit is easy (cottonwood pass), and there were barely any people out there and I did not see one bear. It's still doable in the modern era to experience the trail and get a feeling of wilderness.
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Re: So Much for the John Muir Trail

Post by Hobbes »

schmalz wrote:Hiked the JMT nobo last year in early June. That permit is easy (cottonwood pass), and there were barely any people out there and I did not see one bear. It's still doable in the modern era to experience the trail and get a feeling of wilderness.
Hey, were have you been? I was also going to mention one can still hike the JMT in complete peace & solitude with practically no one around (including bears). Of course, there is the matter of this one, small itzy bitzy hitch:
glen pass.jpg
Andy & I are planning on doing Taboose->Sawmill over Memorial. Interested?
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Re: So Much for the John Muir Trail

Post by Cross Country »

I backpacked over 500 days and never did the JMT nor ever had the desire to do it. I never climbed Mt Whitney nor considered doing it. I only climbed one peak and that only because it was easy (Observation Pk) and we had nothing else to do (catch) on a layover at Dumbell. I didn't backpack to go fishing. I"ve almost never fished outside of backpacking. I backpacked because I really enjoyed being there and liked exploring (cross country).
I fished because I like eating fish and it gave me something to do while at my favorite place in the world, the Sierra backcountry cross country. I think people do the JMT to tell themselves that they DID it. I think people bag peaks to tell themselves that they BAGGED them. I didn't go BP to tell myself or anyone else that i backpacked.
My message is to just enjoy the experience and the atmosphere because one day you won't be able to (like me) and they can be your fondest memories. Hard hiking (JMT) or hard climbing (peaks) was always just that for me - HARD. I just liked to enjoy myself Instead of showing myself - wow look what i can do (or did).
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