TR: Kearsarge to Cottonwood July 30-August 8 2018

[vinjo]

I really enjoyed your detailed report.It almost felt like I was on the journey. I was hoping to get your report on Crabtree Pass since I would like to do this some time. Thanks for the great report!

[levi]

Thanks so much for the report and beautiful photos! Happy to hear that you did much more than "make the most" of various setbacks... sounds like you had a fulfilling trip. (It's been wild reading about the different conditions that the Sierra have seen this summer... I encountered very little thunder/rain in early July on the Circle of Solitude, and got out just before the monsoons/fires began)

Good job with managing your knee pain, too. My knees are much younger than yours but I've already learned to be cautious with them, thanks to mild injuries that still flare up occasionally. Ibuprofen is definitely a backpacker's best friend.

The side notes about Manzanar really intrigued me, and reminded me of a 99% Invisible podcast episode that I listened to while driving around the east side back in the spring. Beginning in the 60s and 70s, various memorials documenting the injustices of Manzanar were erected, only to be repeatedly vandalized by locals, who took issue with framing the history in terms of racism. I guess you can imagine how they'd prefer to frame it anyway, I won't spoil more of the episode, give it a listen when you have the time: https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/manzanar/

[SSSdave]

Enjoyed your well written report with images. Interesting comment about groups continuing to congregate about the bear box "village" at Kearsarge Lakes (the small lake closest to the pass). The outlet area of lake 3321, the largest lake, is arguably one of the best places to base camp in the range, however few groups get that far along those lake shores before setting up camp.

Also amusing your similar comment about all the canister-less hikers at Tyndall Creek concentrating around the bear box area and then up above Guitar Lake. If one actually bothers to explore short distances away from trails and popular lake edges there are significant areas one is likely to locate pleasant tentable sites though may need to walk a bit for water. On the other hand one loses the possibility of having two young French gals camp just 10 feet away from where one sets up. (:

Three of us were out 9 days during the same period and experienced similar storm weather the first few days plus probably more smoky skies since we were farther north. But like you we also had some periods of beautiful clear blue high altitude skies. I've yet to hike any east side or crest areas south of Forester. Shepherd Pass and the upper Kern Basin have were queued up earlier this year until I decided it was a bit too dry that far south this season.

[redbear]

Enjoyed reading your report and viewing the pictures.
One thing made me cringe though is how you labeled all Russians loud and obnoxious because of your experience with one family.
I'm from Russia myself and have many Russian friends who I shared many backpacking and climbing trips with, and I have never, ever experienced what you've described. My friends and I would likely avoid camping at the same lake if there is someone camped there already and there are other options within reasonable distance. That's why most of our trips to the Sierra at least 50% cross-country.
I'm sure there are cultural differences between Russian and American population but...
Bad manners have no borders, race or nationality.

[kpeter]

One thing made me cringe though is how you labeled all Russians loud and obnoxious because of your experience with one family.
I'm from Russia myself and have many Russian friends who I shared many backpacking and climbing trips with, and I have never, ever experienced what you've described. My friends and I would likely avoid camping at the same lake if there is someone camped there already and there are other options within reasonable distance. That's why most of our trips to the Sierra at least 50% cross-country.
I'm sure there are cultural differences between Russian and American population but...
Bad manners have no borders, race or nationality.

Please accept my apologies for creating that impression. I thought I had commented on one Russian family and certainly did not intend to stereotype all Russians. I probably should have declined to name their nationality, since it really had no particular bearing on the events. My bad.

[xcountry rider]

I really enjoyed your trip report and your great photos. It was great how you were able to change your plans and be flexible with your knee and still have a great trip. You kept such a great attitude, even when the carnival moved in next door!

[Goat]

Great report as always. Congrats on Whitney. I was also impressed with the views up there at the end of our HST hike a few year ago.

Strange, if I remember correctly, your trip this time last year in the mineral king area found you hunkering from storms, but coming away with a great trip. I remember because we followed the same route end of August. Our plan this year is Cottonwood to Shepherd, but skipping Whitney, and targeting specific lakes and basins.

Take care of the knee. The Russians are getting a bad rap these days. Let’s all drink some vodka.

[arkheel]

I really enjoyed your trip report and photos! I hope that your knee is well recovered. Your reconfiguration of your trip plans and your expectations after your knee injury is an inspiration.

[kpeter]

I really enjoyed your trip report and photos! I hope that your knee is well recovered. Your reconfiguration of your trip plans and your expectations after your knee injury is an inspiration.

Very kind of you! I've had 4 more years of productive backpacking since that knee injury, but also two operations and much physical therapy. I just seem to require more and more maintenance as I age! But one way or the other I get patched up and back out there, and I hope to keep at it for many more years.

[Wandering Daisy]

I am glad this got bumped up because I missed it. My summer in the Wind Rivers was a summer of "reduced expectations" instead of "great expectations. Mine was due to the same monsoonal weather that hit you. Also had two partners drop out so deleted the more difficult off-trail and areas that have more grizzly bear sightings and stayed on the more populated trails. I too had to change my attitude about crowded trails and take advantage of interaction with many people versus solitude. Other than falling in a creek, I did not have any other physical/medical problems to deal with.

Keweah Basin should be a trip in itself. Yes, you can go through beautiful country getting there, but I would not go there again if I did not have at least three days in the basin. I went there for the meet-up (too late and missed everyone) and stayed two days. I would have had plenty to see if I had stayed another. Went in from the west side. Crabtree Lakes are also worth an entire layover day. Both are hard to do justice if starting from Kearsarge. I was not thrilled with the PCT from Rock Creek to Crabtree Meadow. I agree that the trees are unique, but views are sub-par. I just treated it as a fast way to get to where I wanted to go. In my opinion, the PCT really misses almost every worthwhile destination south of Forrester Pass. The vastness of the upper Kern is interesting, but the numerous headwater cirques on each side are the gems.

The crossing of Tyndall Creek down at the trail on the Kern River does not have to be a log-jam climb. I just waded it- much safer and not bad. Particularly in late season or dry years. I went down from Milestone Creek- never been down from the PCT. I met the ranger from the Tyndall RS while I was in Milestone Basin and he gave me good positive information about going down the Kern instead of back via the cross trail, which would have been repeat miles for me.

Congratulations on Whitney! It is a classic peak no matter what route you take. And an extra day to hang around Hitchcock Lakes must have been wonderful.

The dry conditions (from your photos) are shocking. And this is even with the monsoonal rains.