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Agree that the eastside entry would be a more attractive alternative Mike, but the OP mention the need to hike at lower elevations to acclimate before hitting the high country.
A good way to acclimate is to sleep at the trailhead the night of your drive, then plan a relatively easy first day. In the case of Piute Pass, you could plan on camping at Piute Lake, just short of the pass. That would make for a very easy first day. In the case of Bishop Pass, camp at the southern end of Long Lake -- again, a very easy first day.
I agree with SSSDave that the JMT/Piute Creek junction features impressive and photogenic geology but getting there from Florence Lake is a hot, dull and often mosquito-infested trudge.
Bottom line: I live just above sea level in Portland, Oregon and nine times out of ten choose to enter the backcountry from the east side rather that the west. I had the same preference when I lived in the Bay Area and in Sacramento, even through the west side trailheads were in many cases closer to home.
I am one of three people who clears the trail to Muir Trail Ranch. This year we anticipate late June at the very earliest, early July, we will be able to take the ferry (it will start running when MTR opens for business) with our saws.
As you pass Muir Trail Ranch you will come to a trail junction, where a sign points a hiker toward Blayney Hot Springs. Follow the trail, it goes along the fence at the back of MTR. There is a small campground ie tent sites and fire rings up the hill from the San Joaquin. The river will be uncrossable so the hot spring itself inaccessible but there are cozy tent sites and the river for water.
We try to get to the first ferry of the day, cutting off three miles of hiking that by 10 am becomes hotter than hades. Climbing up the steep OHV trail to the top of the ridge is best done at 8 am. At the top of that first ridge from the ferry dock there is a sign pointing you at the single track hiker trail, or you can walk the long winding OHV route which is not on maps but criss crosses the trail at varying points and ends at MTR, as that's how the unimog takes 50 - 60 hiker supply buckets to the ranch each week.
Going up the can yon of the San Joaquin is spectacular in my book - but it is essential in my opinion to do it early in the day. I once came down into the canyon midafternoon on a hot day, and it was miserable, could not appreciate the beauty at all, had to submerge my head in Piute creek just to maintain an even keel, suffered all the way. Another time, walked up the canyon in the cool of teh morning, and it was great, admired the amazing rocks and the rushing river.
Once you are up near the head of French Canyon, trails are not needed. all those lakes are just a stroll, trail or no trail. Any lake you pick is great.
And anywhere in Granite Park is lovely, just walk up the trail a ways and enjoy. though you may find yourself enjoying French Canyon so much that you linger there and leave no time for Granite Park. But hey, that can be the next trip!
I would also say you might consider an east side entry. Spend a night at a campground lower down, maybe even another at North Lake (walk-in campground there, along a pretty stream). The climb to Piute Pass is mellow and the scenery fantastic. Humphreys Basin is great, even if all you do is stroll through it on your way down to Hutchinson Meadow and the turn up into French Canyon.
If you do enter on the west side, you can call the permitting office at Sierra National Forest to find out which trailheads are starting to fill up on which dates:
559-855-5355
I just called a few days ago to ask about the permit quota situation out of the Edison area in August. It was not nearly as bad as I'd expected.
This thread has spurred an interest for a trip of my own during June up the San Joaquin above Florence. After the big winter of 2017 Kaiser Pass opened on June 15. Caltrans has considerable pressure to open that road and that required considerable snow plowing across the pass. Thus may target late June. Yesterday pushed back all dates on my 2019 summer planning file resulting in an empty June. In fact now my first trip is mid July into Desolation. Over decades I've done early trips to other possible areas but one I have not though have considered for years is above Florence. So am thinking a leisurely 5 day late June base camping trip may work with the destination in the JM Wilderness near the Piute Creek junction with the San Joaquin River. Given the west to east canyon orientation, north facing slopes across the river ought still have areas of snow while trail side slopes facing sun given the low 8k elevation should be well melted out and greening with wildflowers. There ought be some amazing high volume whitewater flows for video capture. Additionally that zone has many outstanding gnarly Sierra juniper trees on canyon walls. Could also work as a small meet up group trip of independent solo permittees.
Ah, I do love this board! Thanks VERY much for all the superb input, folks! I'll digest it all, come up with a plan, and I'll be *certain* to file a trip report!
It now looks like we might be able to get a much earlier start. However, I'd just as soon not camp in the mass of overused campsites on the JMT at the Piute/JMT junction. Are there good camp sites as one heads up toward Piute Pass, preferably not too far above the junction? Haven't been there myself in... well... a long time , and on that trip we weren't looking for campsites.
No, not many. I recall a couple spots right on the trail not far from the the junction but they are not as nice as what you can find at the junction itself. You might find a decent spot much farther up the trail at Turret Creek and for sure near W Pinnacles Creek. It's a pretty hike but hot in the mid-day sun.
, and on that trip we weren't looking for campsites.