N/S Lake Loop side trips in a snowy year...

[Matthewkphx]

Howdy. It's probably a little early in the year to ask these questions but I want to start researching.

I have a July 10 permit entering Piute Pass and I plan to hike the North Lake South Lake Loop. My original plan for this was to go north on the SHR through Humphreys Basin to Feather Pass to White Bear Pass to Lake Italy and then south on the JMT and complete the loop with a cruise around Duzy Basin or Darwin Canyon. This was going to be my first real off-trail experience but I'm guessing that will not be a wise idea given the relative abundance of snow this year and my total lack of experience in travel over snow. I have relatively strong navigational skills, conservative judgement on the ground and won't be bringing an ice axe because I have no experience using one.

I had hoped to get to some quieter and less-traveled areas this summer. Maybe I should just give up on that idea this year unless there is a heck of an early melt... I can't go later in the year, I'm a teacher and have to be back home by the end of July.

If anyone has ideas for areas that get me off of the main trails in a safe manner, I'd love to hear them.

I do have a couple of ideas for quieter or off-trail travel:

1) go up Goddard Canyon and then connect back to the JMT near Wanda Lake via Davis Lakes Pass. Is there any chance this would be a prudent choice? The large talus on the Davis Lakes might be sketchy in the snow but the Wanda side sounds like it would be pretty easy.

2) I could go wander around Humphreys Basin or Duzy Basin as an add-on.

Any other ideas of stuff for me to look at and read about?

[Mike M.]

Matthew, expect lots of snow and lots of mosquitoes in early July this year. The Evolution Creek crossing at the lower end of Evolution Valley will be waist high. The JMT from Sapphire Lake to Muir Pass and down to Helen Lake will be suncup city, so be prepared for a long, hard trudge through snow and bring lots of sunscreen.

One of the upsides is that the trails will be much less crowded, whatever route you do decide on.

Hiking in early season in a high snow year has its rewards but requires a mental adjustment. It's harder and takes longer to get from point A to point B. Bugs can be awful. But snow and high water add a dimension to the landscape that enhances the beauty of an already gorgeous place. I try to camp high and in areas with good air circulation (i.e., a breeze) to minimize the bug nuisance. Best to be moving through a meadow, not camping near one this time of year.

Your timing for wildflowers couldn't be better.

How many days do you have?

As you know, the standard North Lake/South Lake loop is to take the Piute Pass trail down to the JMT junction, then hop on the JMT to LeConte Canyon via Muir Pass, then up the Dusy Basin and out to South Lake via Bishop Pass. A wider loop to include Bear Lakes Basin would probably chew up more days than you comfortably have available.

If you do stick to the standard loop, Hutchinson Meadow will be swarming with mosquitoes and you'd be advised to avoid camping there this year unless you like the bugs.

Lamarck Col is a good alternative exit point if you find you need to adjust your route. There is a permanent snow field just below the top of the pass that needs to be negotiated, but by early afternoon it is soft enough to walk through without traction devices and there will be a noticeable track there from previous hikers marking the way. This route takes you right back to the North Lake trailhead.

Dusy Basin is definitely worth exploring and if you time it to avoid weekend days, it shouldn't be crowded. The lakes below Isosceles Peak are a great place to camp; they provide awesome views of the Palisades, especially at sunset.

Enjoy!

Mike M.

[Matthewkphx]

Hi Mike.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Your photo from below Helen Lake is amazing. I’d be thrilled to see some of that.

I have time. I could actually spend 16 nights out (with a resupply). I assume that going up through the Bear Lakes
Basin via SHR would not be a wise choice given my experience level in snow and off-trail. Is that perhaps a more reasonable choice than I think it is? I’m much more interested in going up there than over Muir Pass again. That said, Muir Pass in the snow will be a new experience and I love it up there...

[bobby49]

Due to this year's snow, I'm thinking that a July 10 trip would be much better if you were at a lower elevation, especially if you are going solo.

[Matthewkphx]

I’ll be with my usual hiking partner. Similar skill level, training and strength.

[Mike M.]

Matthew, 16 days on the trail gives you lots of options. In '78, I started at Mosquito Flat and went in over Mono Pass. I was aware of the heavy snowpack, so brought along a pair of snowshoes, which proved to be completely useless with suncups (snowshoes work best with new snow, in my experience). The first leg of my hike (17 days) ended with a rendezvous on Bishop Pass, where I was met by a friend who carried supplies for the next leg. She hiked out the snowshoes, which had been nothing but dead weight. It was a memorable hike for sure. Here on this site is an account of that trip: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5093&p=31353&hilit= ... 978#p31353

I ended up with a bad sunburn crossing over Mono Pass, so laid over at Mono Creek the next day, near the 2nd Recess junction. My plan had been to cross the creek and head into the 2nd Recess and over Gabbot Pass, but the creek was raging and not fordable there. So I adjusted my plans, did a dayhike up Laurel Creek, then hiked down to the JMT junction at Quail Meadows, where there is a stout bridge across Mono Creek. I followed the JMT until it intersected with the Hilgard Branch trail that leads to Lake Italy. This avoided any major creek crossings for a few days. Both Bear and Hilgard Creeks were raging. I camped below Lake Italy and dayhiked up to the lake the next day, then climbed Mt. Hilgard, which was surprisingly easy and mostly free of snow. I then backtracked to Bear Creek and followed the JMT upstream. The trail crosses the creek near where the two branches intersect; it was a pretty treacherous crossing. I would have been better served to cross each of the two Bear Creek branches further upstream, but I didn't know any better. Lesson learned: if the water is too high and you are uncomfortable, move upstream until you reach a point where the crossing is safe, even if this adds extra miles to your route.

Mosquitoes were a major irritant in this area, until I reached the snowpack near Rosemarie Meadow. Lots of suncups around Marie Lake, where hikers were telling stories of high water at the Evolution Creek crossing.

So, I improvised and had a great hike, just not the one I anticipated. Mosquitoes were terrible in certain zones, but not high up with the snowpack. Whatever route you create for yourself, try to minimize major creek crossings at lower elevations unless bridges exist. The higher up you go, the more manageable the creek crossings will be; but the higher you go, the more snow you'll have to deal with.

Mike M.

[Mike M.]

Matthew, forget about the SHR. Just create your own safe route into the Bear Lakes area if that's where you want to go. You should be able to get there safely from Piute Pass. You might consider hiking up to Desolation Lake and then heading over Steelhead Pass, then down to L Lake. This cross country route is likely to have lots of snow coverage in early July. Then you can make your way over near Pine Creek Pass and either up into Granite Park and over Italy Pass or up into Royce Lakes Basin and then down to Granite Park and over Italy Pass (this is cross country travel, mostly in snow I presume). From Italy Pass, you traverse left to a pass that leads to Bear Lakes Basin. Travel in this snow is slow and exhausting, But rewarding!

From Piute Pass, you can also get to Bear Lakes Basin through the back door, via Selden Pass and the east branch of Bear Creek.

Mike M.

[gregodorizzi]

Lamarck Col is a good alternative exit point if you find you need to adjust your route. There is a permanent snow field just below the top of the pass that needs to be negotiated, but by early afternoon it is soft enough to walk through without traction devices and there will be a noticeable track there from previous hikers marking the way. This route takes you right back to the North Lake trailhead.

Mike M., I was surprised by this comment since Lamarck Col is a high cross-country pass (albeit a common route). I actually haven't been over it but have a permit to go from North Lake over Lamarck Col in mid-August. So you think it likely to be non-hazardous by then? Thanks.

[Wandering Daisy]

The July remaining snow likely will have sun cups, be crusty and hard in the mornings (micro-spikes and trekking poles highly recommended) and post-hole hell by late afternoon. Not a reason to not go- just be prepared. A good pair of knee high gaiters are also helpful. I personally do not think Lemark Col a piece of cake with snow. I have been over it with snow and I would not classify that as something to do if you have zero experience on steep snow, regardless of a path of steps in snow. Also, the east side of Bishop Pass can be difficult if the trail is not at least partially clear of snow. Another thing to be aware of are unseen melt-outs next to large rocks. You can fall into one and really do damage to your knees. Same with creeks that are hidden under snow. Staying on trails avoids these hazards. Rather than add Bear Creek, why not just spend more time in Humphreys Basin- there is plenty to see there. For example, day hike up to Goethe Lakes, Packsaddle Lake or Honeymoon Lake as well as the lakes just under Mt. Humphreys.

Peak water flow may be a hazard too. The crossing at Evolution Valley and the crossing at Bear Creek are two notoriously difficult crossings. You can get an idea of conditions by following the many PCT bloggers. Just google PCT and you will get a lot of good web sites. By early July many PCT'ers will be going through the same area.

[Matthewkphx]

I genuinely appreciate all of these responses. You are giving me lots of ideas about routes to read about over the next few months.

Thank you!