N/S Lake Loop side trips in a snowy year...

[Mike M.]

Mike M., I was surprised by this comment since Lamarck Col is a high cross-country pass (albeit a common route). I actually haven't been over it but have a permit to go from North Lake over Lamarck Col in mid-August. So you think it likely to be non-hazardous by then? Thanks.

Yes, by mid August for sure. I went over the pass in early August last year with a full pack and had no issues. The hardest part is navigating the big slabs and boulders below and adjacent to the snow field. Avoid the long prominent track that cuts diagonally across the snow field. The actual pass (with park sign) is higher up on the left. It think it is easier to navigate this snowfield in a heavy snow year than a light one -- better traction for your boots.

If you are exiting at Lamarck Col and headed out to North Lake, travel is easy once you get down to the little tarn below the pass. Lower down the broad sandy slope, look for the exit trail (on left) that takes you over and then down a ridge towards Upper Lamarck Lake via a well-defined set of switchbacks. That trail eventually intersects the outlet stream to Upper Lamarck Lake.

Mike M.

[Harlen]

Wandering Daisy, we nominate you to describe the the relative ease of learning ice-axe techniques, such as "self belay," "self arrest," and step carving... and how not to break ribs with the adze, or put the darn pick through your heart.

Matthew, it is well worth learning, so why not now? There are some excellent lightweight axes out there, and the "Whippet" option. Between Daisy's good advice, and the folks at your local mountaineering shop, videos, and then getting out there with someone with a bit of experience- you'll be set. As many here have noted, a ice-axe can provide you with a much higher degree of safety on exciting terrain.

Take care, and enjoy your adventures.

[Matthewkphx]

Learning proper ice axe technique is on the list of skills I’d like to learn.

[c9h13no3]

Matthew, it is well worth learning, so why not now?

This is kinda my sentiment. You've got April, May & June to get comfortable on snow. I'd just get some skills before I'd cancel any trips.

I suppose OP could live in Florida or something, which would make it harder?

[Matthewkphx]

Phoenix, AZ. Not a location known for consolidated snow.

I’ll look and see if there is anyone in Flagstaff that teaches technique. I’m not comfortable with the idea of getting an ice axe, watching a some videos on YouTube and sliding down a few hills. I’d rather get proper instruction and really know how to do it.

[bobby49]

Many years ago, I used to lead an annual climb of Mount Shasta. We would ski or snowshoe up to Helen Lake for an overnight camp. At that time, I would conduct an ice axe class. One of us would do the talking and one of us would do the demonstration. The slope above there runs out pretty safely, so each student would go try out what they had just learned. Then each student was given the option of going up to the summit on the next morning or else staying back in camp. Nearly everybody continued to the summit. On the descent, if anybody needed special attention, we were there. Out of 26 annual trips, I had 22 successes and zero injuries.

My point is that a little bit of instruction with a little bit of practice on the right kind of snow will go a long way. If the snow is bad, then the student gets scared and will quit early.

[c9h13no3]

I’ll look and see if there is anyone in Flagstaff that teaches technique.

Even if you don't take a class, going up on/near Humphrey's Peak and doing some hiking around in the snow will teach you things. You'll see rock moats around... rocks. Walk over a snow bridge. Slide around, learn to kick steps, watch the snow soften through the day, and learn what you're not comfortable on. And if you sprain an ankle or twist a knee, you're a shorter hike out.

[Matthewkphx]

That sounds like fantastic advice. Thank you.

[Harlen]

Hi Matthew, glad to hear you're up for the ice-axe challenge. I've already told you not to put the pick end through your heart, and here's another small piece of advice: I believe it's a good idea choose a longer, mountaineering axe for your first ice-axe, rather than a shorter, super light one*, and by all means, don't spend money on a fancy ice-tool- it's not what you need to begin with. Using my weak computer skills, I will try to include something for you below from the web:

Mountaineering Axes v. Technical Ice Tools
While many people use “ice axe” loosely to describe the tools used for both mountaineering and vertical ice/mixed climbing, they technically have different names; axes used for technical ice climbing are actually called “ice tools” rather than ice axes.

Mountaineering Axe
The biggest difference between the two types of ice tools is, coincidentally, how big they are. Mountaineering axes are much longer than ice tools since they are used primarily for traversing across less-steep terrain (almost like a cane or more aggressive trekking pole) or as a SNOW anchor. The straight shaft of a mountaineering axe also provides much better leverage for more efficient self arrest.

Oh well, the text arrived but not the photos. You can check all of this out yourself Matthew. I am currently using a fairly lightweight, black diamond axe of 75cm, but I would like to find an old wooden, longer one, but it would be bloody heavy! Good luck! Ian.

*my preference- heavier seems more solid, but I hope someone here- I defer to Daisy and limpingcrab- might convince you that one of the new, superlight axes is equally sound for self arrest and self belay. It would be nice to start out with a light one since it mostly lives in the pack.

[Harlen]

Matthew, we hope you guys can get into the Bear Basin area. Feather Pass is pretty straightforward. Here's how nice it can look in a snowy summer:

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That's Feather Peak, and the red circle surrounds the Feather Pass route- click to enlarge. You see, it's not that steep on the north side. You'll be fine.

260.JPG

Seven Gables is a wonderful sight from the east.

cropped wolfieDSCN0514.JPG

I'll slip in one of Wolfie, since I recall how much you liked his looks Matt.