Trip Report: Pine Creek to Bear Basin-Granite Park
Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 1:33 pm
I went in from Pine Creek TH on July the 2nd with my usual partner Bearzy the dog, and a young Argentine surfer who had hardly ever been in the snow. Our goal was to get in and out Bear Lakes Basin via two new passes- West Feather Pass and Granite-Bear Pass, and to find some solitude during the 4th of July.
It was summery for the first forested mile, complete with ferns, flowers, and a few mosquitos.
Pine Creek Lake is beautiful. The whole area seemed empty till we met 2 other hikers with 2 small dogs at the Upper Pine Lake. We shot past at a creek crossing, and saw no one else till leaving Granite Park 4 days later.
We had a great trip, mostly because of the crampons we decided to take along. However, on the first day, we carried on over Pine Creek Pass, (8.2 miles in) and a couple miles further down French Canyon, and it was "sun-cup hell" in the late afternoon.
This is Bearzy perched on the broad Pine Creek Pass, looking to the southeast into French Canyon. We had heavy-ish packs, and really suffered for 1.5 miles on either side of that pass. I think Bearzy had it the worst. It was painful to watch him slipping in and out of the steep, deep sun-cups. The last trip we took (about a month ago), the melt-out wasn't half as bad- it makes a huge difference if the sun-cups are are melted out to an average depth of 5-7", compared to 12-14" "sun-buckets!" On this trip, we learned it was well worth the extra distance to seek out the slightly shallower sun-cups, rather than just plowing through in the most direct line. But best of all- and actually fun, was to wake up pre-dawn, and get off early in crampons while the snow was still hard.
Camp 1- The view is down French Canyon and our route headed right beneath the mountains in the distance. Fires are okay below 10,000.' Bruno with his ever-present cup of mate- "La bebida de los gauchos!"
Early mornings were so nice!
From Pine Creek Pass we dropped 3 miles down valley, and crossed on the south side of the drainage that descends from La Salle and Merriam Lakes, and then followed a nice use trail up to Merriam Lake. We stopped early in fear of more sun-cup hell, as from that point on (~10,800' at Merriam Lk.), it was all snow.
Here is the bit of open water at the outlet end of Merriam Lk. We also stopped early here to try our luck with some spinning lures, but not a bite. Why?! Aren't the fish starving at this point? Blanked out again- happens every time. I'll never attempt spring icy lake fishing again. However, in the open water lakes of Pine Creek we succeeded beyond our wildest dreams! See below:
It's hard to tell, but this small-seeming, but giant rainbow trout is floating next to a Jeffrey Pinecone of ~ 6" diameter. (Some of you apparently think the cone is a wee lodgepole cone, eh? Why would I lie?)
And these 3 are bursting out of my 16" pan. (*Always provide incontrovertible photographic evidence to allay suspicion.) My Argentine friend Bruno had never experienced this sort of dangerous big fishing, where it took two of us to haul the fish out of the water.
The third day we got a very early start, and crossed into Bear Lakes Basin via West Feather Pass. That is the south side of the pass, above frozen La Salle Lake.
Nearing the top- it was quite an easy crossing on both sides.
I had planned to stay awhile in Bearzy and my favorite "Bear Basin," but since the lakes were all still frozen, and we wanted to fish, we decided to carry on over Granite Bear Pass, and down into Granite Park. Also, cowboy camping with my 32º bag, used as a quilt over Bear and me, was a pretty chilly business. Judging by the ice in the water bottles, it was getting down to the low 30's. West Feather Pass was easy- perhaps easier in snow than in dry summer conditions. However, we found the first hundred meters on the east side of Granite- Bear to be steep enough to put the crampons back on, and descend with ice axe and whippet. No real trouble, and after that first 100 meters we were enjoying a rapid glissade the rest of the way down. My new surfing friend picked up the techniques easily, and had the time of his young life!
Bear Paw Lake- which does look like a big bear paw. I think that's giant Mt. Hilgard center frame, beyond Dancing Bear Pass. Our route to Granite-Bear Pass winds through the brilliant frozen lakeland below, and hidden between the ridge above Bearpaw Lk., and the higher ridge in the upper right.
It was summery for the first forested mile, complete with ferns, flowers, and a few mosquitos.
Pine Creek Lake is beautiful. The whole area seemed empty till we met 2 other hikers with 2 small dogs at the Upper Pine Lake. We shot past at a creek crossing, and saw no one else till leaving Granite Park 4 days later.
We had a great trip, mostly because of the crampons we decided to take along. However, on the first day, we carried on over Pine Creek Pass, (8.2 miles in) and a couple miles further down French Canyon, and it was "sun-cup hell" in the late afternoon.
This is Bearzy perched on the broad Pine Creek Pass, looking to the southeast into French Canyon. We had heavy-ish packs, and really suffered for 1.5 miles on either side of that pass. I think Bearzy had it the worst. It was painful to watch him slipping in and out of the steep, deep sun-cups. The last trip we took (about a month ago), the melt-out wasn't half as bad- it makes a huge difference if the sun-cups are are melted out to an average depth of 5-7", compared to 12-14" "sun-buckets!" On this trip, we learned it was well worth the extra distance to seek out the slightly shallower sun-cups, rather than just plowing through in the most direct line. But best of all- and actually fun, was to wake up pre-dawn, and get off early in crampons while the snow was still hard.
Camp 1- The view is down French Canyon and our route headed right beneath the mountains in the distance. Fires are okay below 10,000.' Bruno with his ever-present cup of mate- "La bebida de los gauchos!"
Early mornings were so nice!
From Pine Creek Pass we dropped 3 miles down valley, and crossed on the south side of the drainage that descends from La Salle and Merriam Lakes, and then followed a nice use trail up to Merriam Lake. We stopped early in fear of more sun-cup hell, as from that point on (~10,800' at Merriam Lk.), it was all snow.
Here is the bit of open water at the outlet end of Merriam Lk. We also stopped early here to try our luck with some spinning lures, but not a bite. Why?! Aren't the fish starving at this point? Blanked out again- happens every time. I'll never attempt spring icy lake fishing again. However, in the open water lakes of Pine Creek we succeeded beyond our wildest dreams! See below:
It's hard to tell, but this small-seeming, but giant rainbow trout is floating next to a Jeffrey Pinecone of ~ 6" diameter. (Some of you apparently think the cone is a wee lodgepole cone, eh? Why would I lie?)
And these 3 are bursting out of my 16" pan. (*Always provide incontrovertible photographic evidence to allay suspicion.) My Argentine friend Bruno had never experienced this sort of dangerous big fishing, where it took two of us to haul the fish out of the water.
The third day we got a very early start, and crossed into Bear Lakes Basin via West Feather Pass. That is the south side of the pass, above frozen La Salle Lake.
Nearing the top- it was quite an easy crossing on both sides.
I had planned to stay awhile in Bearzy and my favorite "Bear Basin," but since the lakes were all still frozen, and we wanted to fish, we decided to carry on over Granite Bear Pass, and down into Granite Park. Also, cowboy camping with my 32º bag, used as a quilt over Bear and me, was a pretty chilly business. Judging by the ice in the water bottles, it was getting down to the low 30's. West Feather Pass was easy- perhaps easier in snow than in dry summer conditions. However, we found the first hundred meters on the east side of Granite- Bear to be steep enough to put the crampons back on, and descend with ice axe and whippet. No real trouble, and after that first 100 meters we were enjoying a rapid glissade the rest of the way down. My new surfing friend picked up the techniques easily, and had the time of his young life!
Bear Paw Lake- which does look like a big bear paw. I think that's giant Mt. Hilgard center frame, beyond Dancing Bear Pass. Our route to Granite-Bear Pass winds through the brilliant frozen lakeland below, and hidden between the ridge above Bearpaw Lk., and the higher ridge in the upper right.