You could not have asked for better weather; a nice breeze, sunshine galore, cool but not cold nights with an amazing full moon. If I were a better photographer, I would have had some great moonlight shots. Stream flows had subsided so crossings were trivial. Conditions were on the cusp of dryness, past peak wildflowers, but not that burnt look yet. Air was clear with only two nights of a faint smell of smoke from fires to the east in Nevada. Mosquitoes even cooperated and were only a minimal annoyance.
The original plan to exit Shepherd Pass was changed when I was able to secure a Whitney exit permit. The new plan detoured Crabtree Pass and deleted Williamson Bowl and a day in the Upper Kern; all in all, 91.5 miles and almost 20,000 feet elevation gain. I could leave the micro-spikes but, stupid me, I forgot to take them out of my pack; 11 oz. of dead weight the entire trip.
I arrived at Horseshoe Meadow about 4PM and found the Cottonwood Trailhead walk-in campsite crowded and full of obnoxious jerks who when asked simply if a nearby site was available, told me a women should not be out there alone. I left and drove to the Cottonwood Trailhead walk-in, which was much more spread out, less people and set up next to a woman from San Diego with her 11 year old son (same age as one of my grandsons) who had just returned from climbing Langley, on a mission to climb all California 14’ers. I now had first-hand information on New Army Pass and heads-up on mosquitoes at the established campsite at Long Lake; in return I gave her information on the 14’ers I had climbed. For some reason my “can’t do” demons were plaguing me this trip and this pleasant encounter with mother and son really boosted my confidence.
Day 1. Horseshoe Meadow to Long Lake via Lake #5 and day hikes. 7.6 mi - 5.8 hrs - 1530 feet gain.
I awoke to frost and bundled up in my car-camping down jacket trying to be quite since nobody else was up, then drove back to the Cottonwood Lakes trailhead, found a sunny spot in the overflow parking and changed into my hiking clothes, cut across the equestrian campground and shortly was at the trailhead.
The walk into the New Army Pass-Cottonwood Lakes junction was cool and pleasant although my pack was too heavy. I took it easy and reached Lake #5 at 11:30. It is a beautiful lake but campsites were small rocky not an easy place to practice setting up a new trekking pole supported tent. I wandered around and talked to a few people who were going over the old Army Pass (they had done it before). I was going to stick to New Army since I had done it before and had good information on the cornice detour. I decided not to fish so I could eat up some of the food weight in my pack.
I hiked the unmaintained trail long the northeast shore of Lake #4 back to the New Army Pass trail and at 1:30 found a nice site on the ridge north of Long Lake, avoiding the mosquito infested inlet. It took an excessive amount of time figuring out how to set up the tent. This would be a daily practice in which over the 11-day trip I finally figured out what worked, making every mistake in the book along the way! I then washed my shirt and took a bucket bath, fortunately re-clothed just before a fellow came down along the shore. He had lost his buddy on the way down from the pass and was shouting to find him; they eventually reunited. After dinner I walked down to South Fork Lakes.
TR: Horseshoe Meadow to Whitney Portal. 8/12-22, 2019
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Wandering Daisy
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TR: Horseshoe Meadow to Whitney Portal. 8/12-22, 2019
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Re: TR: Horseshoe Meadow to Whitney Portal. 8/12-22, 2019
Day 2. Long Lake to Sky Blue Lake and day hike. 9.1 mi - 7.9 hrs – 2265 feet gain.
I left at 7:40 and headed up the trail, passing several tents at High Lake. The cornice detour was well marked and went all the way around the southeast rib and then steeply up topping out east of the actual pass. As I descended I could see that Army Pass was much lower and would require less elevation gain. I did not encounter anyone until I reached Sky Blue Lake. I took a brief rest at Soldier Lake and to my delight, found a well-worn use-trail to the top of the ridge west of the lake’s north end. I stayed high and contoured to 11,120 feet elevation then connected with the Rock Creek just where it tops out onto the large upper meadows full of small ponds. A nice breeze kept the mosquitoes away. The trail went missing as it crossed the uppermost swampy area, which was dry enough to walk through without getting my feet wet.
I had hoped to day-hike to Iridescent Lake and was tempted to camp at a nice established site in the trees at the north end of the meadow. I realized that I did not have the energy to do a mile-and-half, 650-foot gain day hike. Continuing up to Sky Blue Lake was a more reasonable goal for the day. I crossed the creek from Sky Blue Lake below the slabs and arrived at the outlet at 1:40. Two tents were set up on the east side; I crossed and found a nice site about a tenth of a mile along the shore, out of sight of the others. I hung my pack off a rock to keep out of reach of marmots, and set off along the east shore to the inlet and then up to the small unnamed lake below a waterfall that comes from Lake 3697. On the way back I ran into the four guys who belonged to the other tents.
Back at camp, I took a bath and then struggled again to set up my tent. The end stays had to be taken out to fit inside my pack, and getting it all put back together and put up in a wind was quite a puzzle! I realized that I would have to simply leave the stays in the ends and pack the tent in the back pocket of the pack. Once up the little tent is very sturdy and solid. I fished about half an hour with no luck and never saw a sign of fish. It was another amazing moonlight night, ending in a light frost in the morning.
I left at 7:40 and headed up the trail, passing several tents at High Lake. The cornice detour was well marked and went all the way around the southeast rib and then steeply up topping out east of the actual pass. As I descended I could see that Army Pass was much lower and would require less elevation gain. I did not encounter anyone until I reached Sky Blue Lake. I took a brief rest at Soldier Lake and to my delight, found a well-worn use-trail to the top of the ridge west of the lake’s north end. I stayed high and contoured to 11,120 feet elevation then connected with the Rock Creek just where it tops out onto the large upper meadows full of small ponds. A nice breeze kept the mosquitoes away. The trail went missing as it crossed the uppermost swampy area, which was dry enough to walk through without getting my feet wet.
I had hoped to day-hike to Iridescent Lake and was tempted to camp at a nice established site in the trees at the north end of the meadow. I realized that I did not have the energy to do a mile-and-half, 650-foot gain day hike. Continuing up to Sky Blue Lake was a more reasonable goal for the day. I crossed the creek from Sky Blue Lake below the slabs and arrived at the outlet at 1:40. Two tents were set up on the east side; I crossed and found a nice site about a tenth of a mile along the shore, out of sight of the others. I hung my pack off a rock to keep out of reach of marmots, and set off along the east shore to the inlet and then up to the small unnamed lake below a waterfall that comes from Lake 3697. On the way back I ran into the four guys who belonged to the other tents.
Back at camp, I took a bath and then struggled again to set up my tent. The end stays had to be taken out to fit inside my pack, and getting it all put back together and put up in a wind was quite a puzzle! I realized that I would have to simply leave the stays in the ends and pack the tent in the back pocket of the pack. Once up the little tent is very sturdy and solid. I fished about half an hour with no luck and never saw a sign of fish. It was another amazing moonlight night, ending in a light frost in the morning.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Horseshoe Meadow to Whitney Portal. 8/12-22, 2019
Day 3. Sky Blue Lake to Lower Crabtree Meadow via Rock Creek and PCT. 10.9 mi – 7.8 hrs – 1915 feet gain.
I had hoped to day-hike to Iridescent Lake from Sky Blue Lake in the morning, but soon realized it would be a miserable and possibly unsafe route up steep talus. Instead I packed up and left at 8AM returning to Soldier Lake. I had contemplated continuing down Rock Creek to intersect the trail, but opted for the safe bet of returning via familiar terrain. At 10AM I reached the pond at 10430 where I would have joined the trail had I come down Rock Creek. There is a large established campsite at the junction. The lake had lots of small fish, but I needed to walk, not fish!
Unfortunately, I forgot the map for this section. I thought it would be no problem since I was on a large trail, but I missed the crossing of Rock Creek, instead staying on the north side through an established horse camp. Then mistakenly thought I would shortly intersect the PCT; instead it was two miles of miserable walking. My anxiety picked up as the miles dragged on; even though I knew that I had to eventually hit the PCT. This little mistake did not take much longer, but sure was frustrating. Finally I hit the trail and took a brief rest, asking a PCT hiker who had come down if there was a higher up water source. Being foreign he had trouble understanding what I was asking but finally got it.
Luckily, I would not need to carry water up the hill because Guyot Creek, my “must reach” goal, was flowing well. Although I did not have the map, I had written on my travel plan that it was one mile and 800 feet gain. The creek was “Grand Central Station” loaded with PCT and JMT hikers taking a break. After filling up with water and resting, it was only 1:30 so I decide to commit to the three bone-dry miles to Lower Crabtree Meadow. My pack now hurt, so I took many short rests, arriving at a campsite on a breezy bench downstream at 4PM after wading across ankle-deep Whitney Creek. Tent set-up went faster so I had time for a nice bath and washed clothes. There was only one other tent on the other side of the creek. The meadow was scenic but full of mosquitoes at sunset. Again there were plenty of little fish in the creek, but I preferred to eat the food I was hauling. It was a long day for me and I was beat.
Day 4. Lower Crabtree Meadow to Wallace Lake. 7.3 mi – 5.2 hrs – 1895 feet gain.
Since I would loop back to exit via Whitney, I left Crabtree Lakes for the end of the trip. I started down the trail at 8AM and once at the Whitney Trail junction, I joined the hordes. I left the trail just before it drops to Wallace Creek, hoping to hit the triangle shaped lake to the east, but must have dropped below it. I then ascended a ridge out of the drainage heading east-northeast for a mile over easy open terrain, turned southeast up more difficult terrain to the small shallow lake at 11,070 that had lots of small fish. Crossing the outlet required some bashing through willows onto a nice grassy shore. I was tempted to hike up to the higher lake but decided I rather get to Wallace Creek earlier, so dropped north to the creek from Wales Lake and followed it upstream and then cut over a small ridge to Wallace Creek. I mistakenly stayed on the south side following a use-trail on that ascended a steep gully topping out southwest and above Wallace Lake; not the most efficient route but it worked. I vaguely remember doing this route in the far past.
I dropped my pack where I had camped in 2017 and spent nearly half an hour trying to decide where to camp. For a change I decided to go over to the grassy benches near the north inlet where it was a bit more protected from the winds After setting up, gathering water to solar heat, bathing and washing clothes, I set off fishing along the shore and down at the lower lake. This time I really wanted to have fish for dinner! The wind howled and I got skunked only seeing one rise near the outlet. Although the wind ruined my fishing, it kept the mosquitoes hunkering down in the grass. As far as I knew, I was the only one camped at Wallace Lake. In the wide-open Wallace cirque you feel like you are in a large shallow bowl and in the classic Sierra “range of light”. Wales Lake is more intimate, right in the middle of huge mountains, but I lacked the energy to day-hike up there.
I had hoped to day-hike to Iridescent Lake from Sky Blue Lake in the morning, but soon realized it would be a miserable and possibly unsafe route up steep talus. Instead I packed up and left at 8AM returning to Soldier Lake. I had contemplated continuing down Rock Creek to intersect the trail, but opted for the safe bet of returning via familiar terrain. At 10AM I reached the pond at 10430 where I would have joined the trail had I come down Rock Creek. There is a large established campsite at the junction. The lake had lots of small fish, but I needed to walk, not fish!
Unfortunately, I forgot the map for this section. I thought it would be no problem since I was on a large trail, but I missed the crossing of Rock Creek, instead staying on the north side through an established horse camp. Then mistakenly thought I would shortly intersect the PCT; instead it was two miles of miserable walking. My anxiety picked up as the miles dragged on; even though I knew that I had to eventually hit the PCT. This little mistake did not take much longer, but sure was frustrating. Finally I hit the trail and took a brief rest, asking a PCT hiker who had come down if there was a higher up water source. Being foreign he had trouble understanding what I was asking but finally got it.
Luckily, I would not need to carry water up the hill because Guyot Creek, my “must reach” goal, was flowing well. Although I did not have the map, I had written on my travel plan that it was one mile and 800 feet gain. The creek was “Grand Central Station” loaded with PCT and JMT hikers taking a break. After filling up with water and resting, it was only 1:30 so I decide to commit to the three bone-dry miles to Lower Crabtree Meadow. My pack now hurt, so I took many short rests, arriving at a campsite on a breezy bench downstream at 4PM after wading across ankle-deep Whitney Creek. Tent set-up went faster so I had time for a nice bath and washed clothes. There was only one other tent on the other side of the creek. The meadow was scenic but full of mosquitoes at sunset. Again there were plenty of little fish in the creek, but I preferred to eat the food I was hauling. It was a long day for me and I was beat.
Day 4. Lower Crabtree Meadow to Wallace Lake. 7.3 mi – 5.2 hrs – 1895 feet gain.
Since I would loop back to exit via Whitney, I left Crabtree Lakes for the end of the trip. I started down the trail at 8AM and once at the Whitney Trail junction, I joined the hordes. I left the trail just before it drops to Wallace Creek, hoping to hit the triangle shaped lake to the east, but must have dropped below it. I then ascended a ridge out of the drainage heading east-northeast for a mile over easy open terrain, turned southeast up more difficult terrain to the small shallow lake at 11,070 that had lots of small fish. Crossing the outlet required some bashing through willows onto a nice grassy shore. I was tempted to hike up to the higher lake but decided I rather get to Wallace Creek earlier, so dropped north to the creek from Wales Lake and followed it upstream and then cut over a small ridge to Wallace Creek. I mistakenly stayed on the south side following a use-trail on that ascended a steep gully topping out southwest and above Wallace Lake; not the most efficient route but it worked. I vaguely remember doing this route in the far past.
I dropped my pack where I had camped in 2017 and spent nearly half an hour trying to decide where to camp. For a change I decided to go over to the grassy benches near the north inlet where it was a bit more protected from the winds After setting up, gathering water to solar heat, bathing and washing clothes, I set off fishing along the shore and down at the lower lake. This time I really wanted to have fish for dinner! The wind howled and I got skunked only seeing one rise near the outlet. Although the wind ruined my fishing, it kept the mosquitoes hunkering down in the grass. As far as I knew, I was the only one camped at Wallace Lake. In the wide-open Wallace cirque you feel like you are in a large shallow bowl and in the classic Sierra “range of light”. Wales Lake is more intimate, right in the middle of huge mountains, but I lacked the energy to day-hike up there.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Horseshoe Meadow to Whitney Portal. 8/12-22, 2019
Day 5. Wallace Lake to Upper Wright Lake. 7.9 mi – 6.3 hrs – 1350 feet gain.
I left at 8:10 following a fair use-trail for nearly two miles until I lost it just before the meadow at 10865 where I crossed the upper end and then contoured through timber into the Wright Creek drainage, following it upstream on the east side. I crossed at a cairn, and then walked the west shore of the Middle Wright Lake, crossing the inlet and eating lunch in a clump of timber half a mile upstream.
At noon I climbed the hill east into a drainage with small lakes that parallels Wright Creek which flows from Lake 3645 (Upper Wright Lake). I slowly meandered through lush meadows along small delightful lakes which I fished in 2017 (probably barren lakes).
Up over the hill north, I found a campsite at the east end of Upper Wrights Lake shortly after 2PM. Having been skunked here two times, my goal was to catch a fish! After usual camp chores, I took off to the peninsula to the northwest to fish. I happily caught three nice fish! Shadows fall early, sunlight blocked by the impressive east facing wall of the unnamed peak to the west. Again, I had this headwater all to myself.
I left at 8:10 following a fair use-trail for nearly two miles until I lost it just before the meadow at 10865 where I crossed the upper end and then contoured through timber into the Wright Creek drainage, following it upstream on the east side. I crossed at a cairn, and then walked the west shore of the Middle Wright Lake, crossing the inlet and eating lunch in a clump of timber half a mile upstream.
At noon I climbed the hill east into a drainage with small lakes that parallels Wright Creek which flows from Lake 3645 (Upper Wright Lake). I slowly meandered through lush meadows along small delightful lakes which I fished in 2017 (probably barren lakes).
Up over the hill north, I found a campsite at the east end of Upper Wrights Lake shortly after 2PM. Having been skunked here two times, my goal was to catch a fish! After usual camp chores, I took off to the peninsula to the northwest to fish. I happily caught three nice fish! Shadows fall early, sunlight blocked by the impressive east facing wall of the unnamed peak to the west. Again, I had this headwater all to myself.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Horseshoe Meadow to Whitney Portal. 8/12-22, 2019
Day 6. Upper Wright Lake to “Casper Lake”. 8.7 mi – 6.4 hrs – 1485 feet gain plus fishing.
Mid-morning offers the best photography at Upper Wrights Lake, but I had to make miles so photos were not as good as 2017 photos. I left at 7:45, still in the shadows, heading downstream, encountering one very icy snowfield which I could walk a melt-out on one edge. The route is easy walking, all the way up to Rockwell Pass which I reached at 9:15. The detour northeast to avoid the cornice was tedious and slow over talus blocks. Once down the steep talus, I oriented myself sighting Milestone Mountain in the distance.
Tyndall Creek was a calf-deep wade. Then I climbed up, crossed the PCT, and followed the edge of timber to the Cross Valley-Lake South America trail junction. I had not walked the cross-trail in more than ten years, and forgot that it had such wonderful views. I reached the Kern River Trail at 12:30 and was immediately found by mosquitoes. But I out-walked them, crossed the outlet of the lake below Casper Lake and followed a come-and-go use-trail to the outlet of Casper Lake.
This time I wanted to camp at the higher small lake on the bench next to the inlet waterfalls. A few mosquitoes buzzed but not nearly as bad as below. I found a site at 2PM, and after camp chores and a bath, went back to Casper Lake and caught four fish varying in size from 11 inches to 8 inches. Unfortunately the breeze died down and dinner was a bit of a bug-fest; then the sun went behind the peaks and the bugs vanished. I headed into the tent and for the first time this trip, listened to music for an hour.
Just as it was dark, I heard voices close to my tent. I thought backpackers were trying to find a place to camp. Since my campsite was quite large I said “hi” and that they could camp here if needed. They were climbers who had just finished Thunder Mountain and had a mile to go back to the tent which was at the lake at the cross-trail junction. I was glad I did not have to find my way back in the dark!
Mid-morning offers the best photography at Upper Wrights Lake, but I had to make miles so photos were not as good as 2017 photos. I left at 7:45, still in the shadows, heading downstream, encountering one very icy snowfield which I could walk a melt-out on one edge. The route is easy walking, all the way up to Rockwell Pass which I reached at 9:15. The detour northeast to avoid the cornice was tedious and slow over talus blocks. Once down the steep talus, I oriented myself sighting Milestone Mountain in the distance.
Tyndall Creek was a calf-deep wade. Then I climbed up, crossed the PCT, and followed the edge of timber to the Cross Valley-Lake South America trail junction. I had not walked the cross-trail in more than ten years, and forgot that it had such wonderful views. I reached the Kern River Trail at 12:30 and was immediately found by mosquitoes. But I out-walked them, crossed the outlet of the lake below Casper Lake and followed a come-and-go use-trail to the outlet of Casper Lake.
This time I wanted to camp at the higher small lake on the bench next to the inlet waterfalls. A few mosquitoes buzzed but not nearly as bad as below. I found a site at 2PM, and after camp chores and a bath, went back to Casper Lake and caught four fish varying in size from 11 inches to 8 inches. Unfortunately the breeze died down and dinner was a bit of a bug-fest; then the sun went behind the peaks and the bugs vanished. I headed into the tent and for the first time this trip, listened to music for an hour.
Just as it was dark, I heard voices close to my tent. I thought backpackers were trying to find a place to camp. Since my campsite was quite large I said “hi” and that they could camp here if needed. They were climbers who had just finished Thunder Mountain and had a mile to go back to the tent which was at the lake at the cross-trail junction. I was glad I did not have to find my way back in the dark!
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Horseshoe Meadow to Whitney Portal. 8/12-22, 2019
Day 7. “Casper Lake” to Milestone Basin and day-hike. 5.4 mi – 6.3 hrs – 1180 feet gain.
This was supposed to be an easy fun day. Nothing went right from the get-go! First I could not find my spoon; eating breakfast was a challenge. Then I could not find the DEET. After scouring the campsite for nearly half an hour I gave up and took down the tent. There was the spoon and DEET, under the tent. How in the world did they get there?
I returned the same route to the Kern River Trail at the cross-trail junction. Shortly I spotted the cairn that marks the start of the trail up Milestone and the crossing of the Kern, no wading needed. This trail was in much better condition than it had been a decade ago, only becoming a bit hard to find in the upper stretch. I reached the first meadow and wide spot in the creek with fish at 11AM. Shortly after a rest the Tyndall Ranger stopped by (he and a buddy had climbed Milestone Mountain). We had a nice chat about the crowds on the PCT/JMT; he never asked to see my permit. I asked about the Kern River Trail, since I had never done the section from Milestone to the HST. He assured me that it was quite beautiful and not boring at all.
I then headed up to the lake at 11470, which I vaguely remembered as a nice spot to camp. Hauling the pack up there, and walking all the way around the lake, I realized that I had false memories! It was OK but down in a hollow guaranteeing a buggy evening. I returned to Milestone Creek, walked upstream to the end of the upper meadow, none of the campsites struck my fancy. After much ridiculous walking around with my pack on my back, I settled on a site just up from the lower meadow on a little ridge with a nice breeze. By then it was 3PM. Then I spotted what could be a better site down on Milestone Creek, walked down to check it out; scenic but too lumpy. I returned to my pack and set up camp in a spot that I could have set up in at noon. How stupid! I wasted time I could have done a nice pack-free day-hike or fish. I have done extensive day-hiking and climbing in the upper basin on previous trips, so it that I missed out on exploring something new, just a bit frustrating that my “indecision devils” got the best of me. Nevertheless, it was a fine evening and I had a great bath and dinner.
Day 8. Milestone Basin back to Lower Crabtree Meadow. 12.2 mi – 9.2 hrs – 2825 feet gain.
As much as I would have liked to get all the way to Crabtree Lakes, it was not likely. Minimally I needed to get to Wallace Creek on the PCT, hopefully to Lower Crabtree Meadow. I left at 8AM and dropped back to the Kern River Trail. The drop from Milestone Creek to Tyndall Creek was very interesting, with cliffs, waterfalls, ferns, and the ever- growing Kern River as tributaries added water. I ran into fellows with day-packs going upriver. After crossing Tyndall Creek I talked to one fellow; they were on a packhorse supported fishing trip up the Kern. They would have only one lay-over day in the upper Kern which was too bad since that is the best fishing and were limited where they could camp due to the horses, missing the more scenic locations.
The climb up to Wallace Creek from the HST junction was tiring, but thankfully with a nice cool breeze. I had the hip-belt on my pack cinched up as far as it would go, and it still did not support the pack; truly a pain in the back. I met a nice fellow heading down with a huge pack- he had 14 days food and was on a solo climbing trip in the Kern-Keweah then upper Kern. He had come in Shepherd Pass and said the snowfield at top was still there but only required a short crossing and I could have exited on my original route. Oh well, so it goes. I reached Wallace Creek at 1PM with plenty of daylight left, but slow as a snail because I was hurting. I finally stuffed a folded foam pad on my lower back to “fatten” up enough so I could tighten the hip belt.
Again, on the PCT/JMT there were hordes of people. As slow as I was, many were slower. At 5:20 PM I arrived at the same campsite I used days earlier, glad to know exactly where to put the tent and get water. First I took a bucket-bath, thankfully before the “show” began. The crossing of Whitney Creek was trivial, but required ankle deep wading. Upstream was a line of small unstable rocks submerged in about an inch of water. A group of six hikers scouted upstream; then downstream with no luck. Then they tried to tip-toe on the unstable slippery rocks and fall in one at a time. Six people and nearly an hour they are still at it. A solo hiker comes along; goes downstream, comes back through my camp, asks if I crossed. I said yes, you just have to wade. A few minutes later another solo hiker comes by and goes downstream and does not return. Evidently he found a crossing, likely taking half an hour to return to the trail instead of just wading (10 minutes max). By now I have set up, gathered water, cooked and eaten dinner and am ready to retire to my tent. That was a better show than reality TV! Well, at least nobody was watching my stupid day in Milestone Basin.
This was supposed to be an easy fun day. Nothing went right from the get-go! First I could not find my spoon; eating breakfast was a challenge. Then I could not find the DEET. After scouring the campsite for nearly half an hour I gave up and took down the tent. There was the spoon and DEET, under the tent. How in the world did they get there?
I returned the same route to the Kern River Trail at the cross-trail junction. Shortly I spotted the cairn that marks the start of the trail up Milestone and the crossing of the Kern, no wading needed. This trail was in much better condition than it had been a decade ago, only becoming a bit hard to find in the upper stretch. I reached the first meadow and wide spot in the creek with fish at 11AM. Shortly after a rest the Tyndall Ranger stopped by (he and a buddy had climbed Milestone Mountain). We had a nice chat about the crowds on the PCT/JMT; he never asked to see my permit. I asked about the Kern River Trail, since I had never done the section from Milestone to the HST. He assured me that it was quite beautiful and not boring at all.
I then headed up to the lake at 11470, which I vaguely remembered as a nice spot to camp. Hauling the pack up there, and walking all the way around the lake, I realized that I had false memories! It was OK but down in a hollow guaranteeing a buggy evening. I returned to Milestone Creek, walked upstream to the end of the upper meadow, none of the campsites struck my fancy. After much ridiculous walking around with my pack on my back, I settled on a site just up from the lower meadow on a little ridge with a nice breeze. By then it was 3PM. Then I spotted what could be a better site down on Milestone Creek, walked down to check it out; scenic but too lumpy. I returned to my pack and set up camp in a spot that I could have set up in at noon. How stupid! I wasted time I could have done a nice pack-free day-hike or fish. I have done extensive day-hiking and climbing in the upper basin on previous trips, so it that I missed out on exploring something new, just a bit frustrating that my “indecision devils” got the best of me. Nevertheless, it was a fine evening and I had a great bath and dinner.
Day 8. Milestone Basin back to Lower Crabtree Meadow. 12.2 mi – 9.2 hrs – 2825 feet gain.
As much as I would have liked to get all the way to Crabtree Lakes, it was not likely. Minimally I needed to get to Wallace Creek on the PCT, hopefully to Lower Crabtree Meadow. I left at 8AM and dropped back to the Kern River Trail. The drop from Milestone Creek to Tyndall Creek was very interesting, with cliffs, waterfalls, ferns, and the ever- growing Kern River as tributaries added water. I ran into fellows with day-packs going upriver. After crossing Tyndall Creek I talked to one fellow; they were on a packhorse supported fishing trip up the Kern. They would have only one lay-over day in the upper Kern which was too bad since that is the best fishing and were limited where they could camp due to the horses, missing the more scenic locations.
The climb up to Wallace Creek from the HST junction was tiring, but thankfully with a nice cool breeze. I had the hip-belt on my pack cinched up as far as it would go, and it still did not support the pack; truly a pain in the back. I met a nice fellow heading down with a huge pack- he had 14 days food and was on a solo climbing trip in the Kern-Keweah then upper Kern. He had come in Shepherd Pass and said the snowfield at top was still there but only required a short crossing and I could have exited on my original route. Oh well, so it goes. I reached Wallace Creek at 1PM with plenty of daylight left, but slow as a snail because I was hurting. I finally stuffed a folded foam pad on my lower back to “fatten” up enough so I could tighten the hip belt.
Again, on the PCT/JMT there were hordes of people. As slow as I was, many were slower. At 5:20 PM I arrived at the same campsite I used days earlier, glad to know exactly where to put the tent and get water. First I took a bucket-bath, thankfully before the “show” began. The crossing of Whitney Creek was trivial, but required ankle deep wading. Upstream was a line of small unstable rocks submerged in about an inch of water. A group of six hikers scouted upstream; then downstream with no luck. Then they tried to tip-toe on the unstable slippery rocks and fall in one at a time. Six people and nearly an hour they are still at it. A solo hiker comes along; goes downstream, comes back through my camp, asks if I crossed. I said yes, you just have to wade. A few minutes later another solo hiker comes by and goes downstream and does not return. Evidently he found a crossing, likely taking half an hour to return to the trail instead of just wading (10 minutes max). By now I have set up, gathered water, cooked and eaten dinner and am ready to retire to my tent. That was a better show than reality TV! Well, at least nobody was watching my stupid day in Milestone Basin.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Horseshoe Meadow to Whitney Portal. 8/12-22, 2019
Day 9. Lower Crabtree Meadow to Crabtree Lakes + day-hikes. 7.1 mi – 7.1 hrs – 1645 feet gain.
After the previous long day I slept in and did not get going until nearly 9AM. I walked up the trail towards the Crabtree RS and then sloshed across the wet meadow (with Crocks) to the start of the trail to Crabtree lakes- big cairn there. I wanted to camp at the middle lake but was not committed enough to unpack and set up. I scouted the outlet area but found the best site was at the north end by the sandy “beach”. I then walked the north shore and fished, until I hit a cliff. I scrambled up above the lake and then dropped to the inlet waterfall, fishing here a while. The wind was strong which limited my casting. Then I fished the outlet. No luck, but it was the middle of the day. The sun beat down and I decided I preferred some shade, so dropped to the lower lake and camp at the inlet where there are nice established campsites with trees.
Once set up, I walked around the large tree that shaded my tent- to my horror the back side was hollow and totally dead. Although unlikely to fall on me, to be safe, I moved the tent to a nearby site. After a bath and clothes washing it was a better time to fish. I caught several smallish fish along the north shore and cooked dinner free of mosquitoes due to the breeze. (Only problem was the gut-bomb chili; what a stink I made all night! A previous dinner of red lentils was also a stink producer- delete that from my future menu! I took note- less beans and dried onions next time- more pasta.) Overall it was a very relaxing day. I turned in early because the next day would be a long one. Sunset was beautiful. Again, nobody there but me.
After the previous long day I slept in and did not get going until nearly 9AM. I walked up the trail towards the Crabtree RS and then sloshed across the wet meadow (with Crocks) to the start of the trail to Crabtree lakes- big cairn there. I wanted to camp at the middle lake but was not committed enough to unpack and set up. I scouted the outlet area but found the best site was at the north end by the sandy “beach”. I then walked the north shore and fished, until I hit a cliff. I scrambled up above the lake and then dropped to the inlet waterfall, fishing here a while. The wind was strong which limited my casting. Then I fished the outlet. No luck, but it was the middle of the day. The sun beat down and I decided I preferred some shade, so dropped to the lower lake and camp at the inlet where there are nice established campsites with trees.
Once set up, I walked around the large tree that shaded my tent- to my horror the back side was hollow and totally dead. Although unlikely to fall on me, to be safe, I moved the tent to a nearby site. After a bath and clothes washing it was a better time to fish. I caught several smallish fish along the north shore and cooked dinner free of mosquitoes due to the breeze. (Only problem was the gut-bomb chili; what a stink I made all night! A previous dinner of red lentils was also a stink producer- delete that from my future menu! I took note- less beans and dried onions next time- more pasta.) Overall it was a very relaxing day. I turned in early because the next day would be a long one. Sunset was beautiful. Again, nobody there but me.
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austex
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Re: TR: Horseshoe Meadow to Whitney Portal. 8/12-22, 2019
NICE Fish. I enjoyed your report of an area I wish I had the energy to go to and fish. I especially like the last two pictures of Upper Wrights! Too bad about the naysayers at the BP Campground; things worked out better that you moved. I just can't stand chauvinistic behavior. Just bad manners!
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Horseshoe Meadow to Whitney Portal. 8/12-22, 2019
Day 10. Lower Crabtree Lakes to Consultation Lake. 9.0 mi – 7.1 hrs – 3010 feet gain, 2475 loss
I had ridiculously thought I would spend the day exploring Arctic Lake and Hitchcock Lakes once I traversed into the Whitney Creek drainage. This plan would have been fine had I told my husband to pick me up at the end of the day instead of noon. Given no communication possibilities with him, I realized getting to Whitney Portal at noon from anywhere on the west side was unrealistic. So the days’ goal was to get over the crest. Weather was perfect so the only constraint was my own energy level.
I had traversed to Timberline Lake in 2017, getting too high. This time I walked back on the trail about half a mile then started the traverse from a lower elevation. It worked quite well, but I did get a bit low this time and walked the edge of the canyon to my left once I rounded the corner. It worked out well though, with much less talus than my previous higher route. I reached Timberline Lake in an hour and half. Then it was just a long walk up to Trail Crest. I took it very steady and slow with many small rest breaks, reaching the crest at 1:45. The trail was not that crowded, which surprised me.
Descending I had one mishap which could have ended in disaster. Not sure what happened, but either I got too close to the edge of the trail and it collapsed or I simply tripped. But there I was in steep scree ready to catapult down. I planted my feet and quickly stopped, not hurt at all but a bit shaken. I certainly paid more attention as I continued to descend!
Shortly after passing Trail Camp, I found the slot drainage that dropped to Consultation Lake, reaching my campsite at 3:30. Previously I had zig-zagged down the cliffs farther down. I think the slot was snow-packed last time I did this. As I was setting up two fellows came up from lower. They were going to climb Whitney the next day and asked how to get back to the trail. I told them about the slot, which they then scouted.
I only had time to fish or wash and bathe; I decide to fish. Same as in 2017, the outlet was packed full of spawning Rainbows, not in the least interested in biting. I fished the shores, catching two small fish that I threw back, failing to set the hook on two larger fish, and landing one nice fat 12-inch fish for dinner. After camping at Consultation Lake, I will never again put up with the crowds and noise at Trail Camp. I am surprised at how few people camp at Consultation Lake.
Although I was far below the trail, I could hear the constant chattering of people up on the trail. About 10PM, I thought the moon had risen, but it was headlamps from people up on the trail; unbelievable how strong the new headlamps are; annoying too.
Day 11. Consultation Lake to Whitney Portal. 6.3 mi – 3.4 hrs – 3614 elevation loss
I went back up the slot and then just walked down the trail. I stopped at Trail Meadow and Mirror Lake to take a few photos and then last chance to pee in private near Lone Pine Lake. My husband and Lupe, our border collie, met me partway up the trail, which now was full of people- climbers and day-hikers. Even before noon, it was blazing hot. Back at the trailer at Lone Pine Campground, we turned on the generator for air conditioning. Later in the afternoon heat, we drove up to Horseshoe Meadow to retrieve my car. It was so nice and cool up there! Unfortunately, it is not the best road to haul up a trailer.
I had ridiculously thought I would spend the day exploring Arctic Lake and Hitchcock Lakes once I traversed into the Whitney Creek drainage. This plan would have been fine had I told my husband to pick me up at the end of the day instead of noon. Given no communication possibilities with him, I realized getting to Whitney Portal at noon from anywhere on the west side was unrealistic. So the days’ goal was to get over the crest. Weather was perfect so the only constraint was my own energy level.
I had traversed to Timberline Lake in 2017, getting too high. This time I walked back on the trail about half a mile then started the traverse from a lower elevation. It worked quite well, but I did get a bit low this time and walked the edge of the canyon to my left once I rounded the corner. It worked out well though, with much less talus than my previous higher route. I reached Timberline Lake in an hour and half. Then it was just a long walk up to Trail Crest. I took it very steady and slow with many small rest breaks, reaching the crest at 1:45. The trail was not that crowded, which surprised me.
Descending I had one mishap which could have ended in disaster. Not sure what happened, but either I got too close to the edge of the trail and it collapsed or I simply tripped. But there I was in steep scree ready to catapult down. I planted my feet and quickly stopped, not hurt at all but a bit shaken. I certainly paid more attention as I continued to descend!
Shortly after passing Trail Camp, I found the slot drainage that dropped to Consultation Lake, reaching my campsite at 3:30. Previously I had zig-zagged down the cliffs farther down. I think the slot was snow-packed last time I did this. As I was setting up two fellows came up from lower. They were going to climb Whitney the next day and asked how to get back to the trail. I told them about the slot, which they then scouted.
I only had time to fish or wash and bathe; I decide to fish. Same as in 2017, the outlet was packed full of spawning Rainbows, not in the least interested in biting. I fished the shores, catching two small fish that I threw back, failing to set the hook on two larger fish, and landing one nice fat 12-inch fish for dinner. After camping at Consultation Lake, I will never again put up with the crowds and noise at Trail Camp. I am surprised at how few people camp at Consultation Lake.
Although I was far below the trail, I could hear the constant chattering of people up on the trail. About 10PM, I thought the moon had risen, but it was headlamps from people up on the trail; unbelievable how strong the new headlamps are; annoying too.
Day 11. Consultation Lake to Whitney Portal. 6.3 mi – 3.4 hrs – 3614 elevation loss
I went back up the slot and then just walked down the trail. I stopped at Trail Meadow and Mirror Lake to take a few photos and then last chance to pee in private near Lone Pine Lake. My husband and Lupe, our border collie, met me partway up the trail, which now was full of people- climbers and day-hikers. Even before noon, it was blazing hot. Back at the trailer at Lone Pine Campground, we turned on the generator for air conditioning. Later in the afternoon heat, we drove up to Horseshoe Meadow to retrieve my car. It was so nice and cool up there! Unfortunately, it is not the best road to haul up a trailer.
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c9h13no3
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Re: TR: Horseshoe Meadow to Whitney Portal. 8/12-22, 2019
Nice TR! At some point I'm gonna just do the huge drive down to Lone Pine. Probably in winter, since it's actually faster to run down I-5.
How dead was your garden after 11 days with no water in the Sacramento heat?
How dead was your garden after 11 days with no water in the Sacramento heat?
"Adventure is just bad planning." - Roald Amundsen
Also, I have a blog no one reads. Please do not click here.
Also, I have a blog no one reads. Please do not click here.
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