TR: Bench Canyon/North Fork of San Joquain 8/2-8/6
- seamusperry
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TR: Bench Canyon/North Fork of San Joquain 8/2-8/6
This is a trip I thought about for a while - at first considered and actually attempted to do it with my pregnant wife in 2016. The basic route is simple enough - Isberg TH over the shoulder of Sadler Peak, down to Long Creek, up to Rockbound Lake, then over to Blue Lake, traverse to Twin Island Lakes then grab the trail to Hemlock Crossing and out the way we came.
In 2016, due to a long night as first-time pregnant parents, we decided we had altitude sickness and bailed down Long Creek to Hemlock Crossing where we spent a nice two days relaxing by the pool before exiting via the trail. This time around, I left my 2 year old and wife behind to go with some colleagues from work.
We left San Luis Obispo mid morning and made it to Clover Meadow Ranger Station by around 4:30 or 5 pm just in time for the descent of the bugs. We walked out of the car and it honestly felt like we were swarmed, like they were lying in wait for us. Picked up the permit from the very nice volunteer ranger who opened up the office so we could leave early and turned in early.
In the morning, we drove to Isberg TH and began the walk up to the Niche. Bugs were present as soon as we stopped to breathe, but were manageable with a combination of DEET, premethrin clothes and Picaridin. The trail was in pretty good condition, though boggy through the meadows
After Chetwood Cabin, things get a little more dicy and the trail mostly disappears. Navigating through the forest was slow, with plenty of downed trees though there were occasional viewpoints that managed to both orient us and keep us interested in what was next.
In general, we tried to climb gradually and keep angling to our left. I remembered the little pothole lakes around 9550' immediately east of Sadler and had originally planned to camp there. After a surprisingly long time bumbling through the forest, we saw the lakes, right where they were supposed to be although the trail still eluded us. It's not super surprising, given the amount of snow and runoff from the last year, but the nice clean line on the Forest Service map is not really on the ground. We descended down to Long Creek and camped right around 9000 feet on the right side, facing up the valley. The wind was almost non-existent, so as soon as evening fell, the bugs were out in force. All of us retreated to tents early and competed to see how many mozzis were sitting on our mesh - I had 35 or so on mine.
In the morning, we began ascending Long Creek and miracle of miracles, the breeze had picked up and the mosquitoes had died down. The walking was easy, slabby granite and a pleasant ascent - we made it up to Rockbound Lake in good time - probably 2 hours - and had an early lunch there.
After the lake, we headed up the ridge into Bench Canyon.
Some of the best views of the trip were from the top here, with Blue Lake to our north, Ritter and the Minarets to the East and way, way off in the distance to the south, Mt. Gabb, Seven Gables, etc.
In 2016, due to a long night as first-time pregnant parents, we decided we had altitude sickness and bailed down Long Creek to Hemlock Crossing where we spent a nice two days relaxing by the pool before exiting via the trail. This time around, I left my 2 year old and wife behind to go with some colleagues from work.
We left San Luis Obispo mid morning and made it to Clover Meadow Ranger Station by around 4:30 or 5 pm just in time for the descent of the bugs. We walked out of the car and it honestly felt like we were swarmed, like they were lying in wait for us. Picked up the permit from the very nice volunteer ranger who opened up the office so we could leave early and turned in early.
In the morning, we drove to Isberg TH and began the walk up to the Niche. Bugs were present as soon as we stopped to breathe, but were manageable with a combination of DEET, premethrin clothes and Picaridin. The trail was in pretty good condition, though boggy through the meadows
After Chetwood Cabin, things get a little more dicy and the trail mostly disappears. Navigating through the forest was slow, with plenty of downed trees though there were occasional viewpoints that managed to both orient us and keep us interested in what was next.
In general, we tried to climb gradually and keep angling to our left. I remembered the little pothole lakes around 9550' immediately east of Sadler and had originally planned to camp there. After a surprisingly long time bumbling through the forest, we saw the lakes, right where they were supposed to be although the trail still eluded us. It's not super surprising, given the amount of snow and runoff from the last year, but the nice clean line on the Forest Service map is not really on the ground. We descended down to Long Creek and camped right around 9000 feet on the right side, facing up the valley. The wind was almost non-existent, so as soon as evening fell, the bugs were out in force. All of us retreated to tents early and competed to see how many mozzis were sitting on our mesh - I had 35 or so on mine.
In the morning, we began ascending Long Creek and miracle of miracles, the breeze had picked up and the mosquitoes had died down. The walking was easy, slabby granite and a pleasant ascent - we made it up to Rockbound Lake in good time - probably 2 hours - and had an early lunch there.
After the lake, we headed up the ridge into Bench Canyon.
Some of the best views of the trip were from the top here, with Blue Lake to our north, Ritter and the Minarets to the East and way, way off in the distance to the south, Mt. Gabb, Seven Gables, etc.
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- seamusperry
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Re: TR: Bench Canyon/North Fork of San Joquain 8/2-8/6
The descent to Blue Lake was uneventful, but the sunset that night was incredible, bouncing off of Ritter and the Minarets.
After angling up the appropriate slope on the north side of the canyon, we made our way to the nose that overlooks both Bench Canyon and the North Fork. We were all relatively comfortable with the exposure and occasionally ended up on the use trail. Once we turned around the nose at, I would guess, about 10,700' we made our way across the talus away from the sheer drop to the river below. I have never been super happy on talus - I can't quite get the image of a rock dislodging the whole house of cards above me out of my head, so this traverse was not super pleasant. There was more than enough snow to keep things interesting once the talus was crossed and given that not all of us had poles, we made a few aborted attempts at traversing a steep snowy pitch before finding a safer way around to Roper's "wild and beautiful" lake at 3100 m. We ran into a few folks following the SHR northbound who were still a little traumatized from the descent of Lake Catherine's cascades. Otherwise, the route into Twin Island Lakes was straightforward.
The upper lake was still ice-bound and we decided to try the crossing of the outlet stream. While it was about hip deep on us (shortest was 5'10") and the rocks were super slippery, we all made it without any real drama. We felt safest on the side closest to the lake (almost walking in the lake) and the rocks were grippiest there.
We made camp shortly thereafter and had a nice night. The next morning, we made our way north from the outlet and followed what seemed to the most trail-like depression in the ground down the North Fork until we picked up the actual trail and headed to Hemlock Crossing. We ran into plenty of folks on the trail and Hemlock was well-populated. The river was, as you would expect, raging and unfortunately, swimming near the waterfall was more an exercise of not getting swept away, rather than a pleasant soak.
The final day was a sprint back to the car - I think we made it back to the TH by 11 am and were back in SLO by 4:30 or 5.
The next morning, we began making our way down Bench Canyon, intending to follow the SHR to Twin Island LakesAfter angling up the appropriate slope on the north side of the canyon, we made our way to the nose that overlooks both Bench Canyon and the North Fork. We were all relatively comfortable with the exposure and occasionally ended up on the use trail. Once we turned around the nose at, I would guess, about 10,700' we made our way across the talus away from the sheer drop to the river below. I have never been super happy on talus - I can't quite get the image of a rock dislodging the whole house of cards above me out of my head, so this traverse was not super pleasant. There was more than enough snow to keep things interesting once the talus was crossed and given that not all of us had poles, we made a few aborted attempts at traversing a steep snowy pitch before finding a safer way around to Roper's "wild and beautiful" lake at 3100 m. We ran into a few folks following the SHR northbound who were still a little traumatized from the descent of Lake Catherine's cascades. Otherwise, the route into Twin Island Lakes was straightforward.
The upper lake was still ice-bound and we decided to try the crossing of the outlet stream. While it was about hip deep on us (shortest was 5'10") and the rocks were super slippery, we all made it without any real drama. We felt safest on the side closest to the lake (almost walking in the lake) and the rocks were grippiest there.
We made camp shortly thereafter and had a nice night. The next morning, we made our way north from the outlet and followed what seemed to the most trail-like depression in the ground down the North Fork until we picked up the actual trail and headed to Hemlock Crossing. We ran into plenty of folks on the trail and Hemlock was well-populated. The river was, as you would expect, raging and unfortunately, swimming near the waterfall was more an exercise of not getting swept away, rather than a pleasant soak.
The final day was a sprint back to the car - I think we made it back to the TH by 11 am and were back in SLO by 4:30 or 5.
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- FilthyPhill
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Re: TR: Bench Canyon/North Fork of San Joquain 8/2-8/6
Nice report. I was up in that area from 8/1-8/4. We didnt see anyone.
- Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Bench Canyon/North Fork of San Joquain 8/2-8/6
I did a similar trip back in early June 2008. I went up to the "nitch" then down to Hemlock Crossing, then up the river and day-hiked the upper reaches. I found a good use-trail that went up towards Ritter Lakes. This trail is not mentioned in Roper's High Route book. I ran into a large long cable on the way. I think the trail is left over from the mining days. Also went up to the Twin Island Lakes, but did not go to Blue Lakes. There was a lot of snow. Here is a photo of Twin Island Lake. I did not cross the outlet, too deep and swift then, so I walked the snowbank on the left.
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- Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Bench Canyon/North Fork of San Joquain 8/2-8/6
I could not find a lot of dry ground so camped on a big flat rock!
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- seamusperry
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Re: TR: Bench Canyon/North Fork of San Joquain 8/2-8/6
Daisy - I can't imagine the route finding with that much snow! We bumped around even with the limited amounts that were there in early August. I would have liked to spend a day or two exploring the basin between Mt. Davis and Rodgers Peak, but not enough time on this trip. I love the area, so I'm sure we'll be up there again.
- davidsheridan
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Re: TR: Bench Canyon/North Fork of San Joquain 8/2-8/6
Great TR and beautiful pictures. Thanks for sharing
- LMBSGV
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Re: TR: Bench Canyon/North Fork of San Joquain 8/2-8/6
Yesterday I was looking at a map and contemplating the Rockbound Lake/Long Creek route as an exit route from Bench Canyon so your wonderful report was very informative as well as a joy to read and look at the photos. Thanks for sharing!
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- seamusperry
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Re: TR: Bench Canyon/North Fork of San Joquain 8/2-8/6
The Rockbound Lake/Long Creek is a very doable exit from Bench Canyon - crossing over the ridge between the two (from Blue Lake) is quite easy. If you decide to go to Hemlock Crossing, you can follow Long Creek all the way down, though there is a steep cliffy section around 8500'. After that steep section, we turned right to go down the more gradual valley that intersects with the Hemlock trail. If you decide to stay high on the shoulder of Sadler to pick up the trail to Chetwood Cabin, just be aware that the trail is not particularly obvious most of the time. We spent a bunch of hours on the afternoon of the first day trying to find our way through the woods. Enjoy!
- Pietro257
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Re: TR: Bench Canyon/North Fork of San Joquain 8/2-8/6
Thanks for the report. I have been to Bench Canyon three times and hope to follow your route on a trip next summer. (The first two times I went, I came over North Glacier Pass to Catherine Lake to Twin Lakes to Bench Canyon. The third time I went to Hemlock Crossing, went up river, and crossed north of where Bench Canyon Creek meets the San Joaquin River -- it was a dry year and that crossing was doable.) You say the trail is hard to follow after Chetwood Cabin. Is it basically a cross-country hike? Also, was it hot up there?
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