TR: Blackcap, Blue Canyon, Tunemah, Bench Valley, Devils Punchbowl

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TR: Blackcap, Blue Canyon, Tunemah, Bench Valley, Devils Punchbowl

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Blackcap Basin, Blue Canyon, Tunemah, Bench Valley, Devils Punchbowl
7/27-8/4, 2021


This trip ended up a scaled down version of the original plan. Without too many more miles, better weather would have allowed returning via Goddard Creek and Ionian Basin instead of back-tracking to Bench Valley. I have been in Ionian Basin a few times and it is no place I desire to be in foul weather, particularly with lightning. Starting from Maxon TH, keeping Tunemah in the route was the more logical choice over Ionian Basin, which is actually better accessed from the east side or Florence Lake. The weather sent me into my “Rocky Mountain” mode of travel; up at dawn, over passes before noon, camp by very early afternoon in sheltered locations. Having been to Blue Canyon Lakes and Tunemah, I knew there were adequate sheltered campsites. Sorry, but a lot of the photos are not that great and do not do justice to the locations.

In summary the trip was 8 days, 67.2 miles, 33.3 off-trail (5 days) and 33.9 on trail (3 days)

7/27 Maxon TH to NF Kings (plus 5 hour drive)
10.4 miles, 6.2 hours, +995 elevation


I made it to the trailhead at noon, quickly left and immediately made a wrong turn. Very visible, large signs saying “trail” have been posted on trees along the jeep road you start on. Well, I figured that “trail” really meant trail (no- it meant jeep road). While I was fixated on following these signs, thinking that the FS had just relocated the trail, I ended up missing the real trail junction and ended up at Voyager Rock campground. Then I had to find the unsigned “trail” back to Chambers Camp. This error added extra miles to an already tight schedule. Being so dry Long Meadow was dry except a few stagnant inky black puddles. Post Corral Creek was barely flowing and also full of algae and topped with dead bugs. It was early enough that I decided to continue to the NF of Kings (BM 8028), where I knew there would be better flowing water. Another group was camped on the trail side, so I stepped across the drastically reduced flow and camped on the south side. Just as I found a perfect site, I saw the “no camping” sign so moved uphill to a less desirable site and had a horrible time setting up due to tent stakes pulling out of the seemingly bottomless sand. I secured the tent stakes by placing huge rocks on top of them. Then it was time for a luxurious bath in one of the perfect “tubs” in the river. It was a hard day but I was glad to get his far and have descent water. Unfortunately it was really sad to see the condition of the river.

7/28 NF Kings to Portal Lake
9.2 miles, 6.5 hours, +2425 elevation


I had planned three days to reach Cathedral Lake. Now that I was already on the NF of the Kings I hoped to make it in two. The Blackcap Trail is a steady trudge uphill in the forest with some peeks at mountains. The river is impressive early season; now it was a mix of puddles and a few flowing sections. The trail significantly deteriorates as you progress. When I reached Portal Lake, weather became threatening and I was beat so I stopped. I wasted enough time walking entirely around the lake to search for the best campsite, that when I found one it started to rain before the tent was set up. Actually, it was so warm that getting rained on felt pretty good. After about half an hour hunkered in the tent it cleared and I went fishing, again circling the lake, catching five small, but perfectly pot-sized fish. Dinner was also interrupted by another brief storm. Just before I fell asleep another one blew through.

2816_Portal Lake camp.jpg
2819-20_Portal Lake.jpg
2828_Portal Lake fish.jpg

7/29 Portal Lake to Blue Canyon Lake 10401
5 miles, 4.5 hours +1210 elevation, plus 2.5 mile/2 hours of day-hiking


I debated simply going up to Cathedral Lake for a layover day, or continuing to Blue Canyon Lakes, choosing the latter because it worked better logistically for getting to Tunemah Lake as much as I hated missing Cathedral Lake. I found a really nice game trail that dropped into a series of ponds at the head of Crown Basin, then walked along the edge of the meadow until I reached to slabs that I would climb to reach Hummingbird Lake. Normally Crown Basin is mosquito hell, but it was now so dry that there were few bugs at all. The grasses were turning yellow.

Although I had been here before, the route I took to Hummingbird Lake was not the best; I got too high too early. Unlike Crown Basin, Hummingbird Lake is surrounded by bogs and was mosquito hell. Thankfully a stiff breeze kept things reasonable. The lake was full of tiny fish. There are several nice campsites south across the outlet up on a bench that receives a good breeze and another larger established campsite on the north side of the outlet which is adjacent to a boggy meadow. I hurried along the shore and got up on the rock bench at the other end before stopping for lunch. The trek up to Mantel Pass passes through beautiful grassy meadows and fun low-angle granite slabs. I descended to the lake on the east side over unpleasant talus (there is a better route) and took another rest at this unnamed lake outlet.

2830-31_Hummingbird Lake.jpg
2832-34_Hummingbird Lake.jpg
2838_Mantel Pass.jpg
2837_Lake east of Mantel Pass_edited-1.jpg
Heading for Blue Canyon lakes, I got too low and forgot the two huge perpendicular gullies that must be crossed, again not finding the best route. I did not recall having that much difficulty when I traveled the other direction several years ago. Memories can trick; I remembered the few grassy ledges followed, but forgot that 80% of the route is no rock slabs. After too much ups and downs, I was on a hill where I could drop down to the westernmost Blue Canyon Lake. Again I missed the best route and ended up on more talus. It was nearing 11AM and clouds were quickly building.

On one hand I wanted to camp near the western lakes to fish; on the other, I wanted to get as close to Dykman Pass as possible for logistical reasons. I checked out several potential campsites on the way to Lake 10401. I vaguely remembered good camping in trees at this lake, but was not sure that really was the case. So when neared the lake and found a wonderful sheltered campsite, I was delighted. Unfortunately the rain did not wait for me to set up my tent, and again I got soaked. After about an hour in the tent, it cleared and I went fishing in spite of my suspicions that the lake was barren. All of a sudden I realized I had not brought my camera. Back at camp I searched and never found it. I feared I had left it at one of the two rest stops so frantically went back resulting in a 2.5 mile “day-hike” but found nothing. Stupidly, I did not take my fishing rod; I could have fished the western lakes. Back in camp I remembered that I dumped everything in my pack and threw it into the tent when the rain started. There it was, the camera, in the bottom of the deep black hole of the pack. Why do pack designers make black packs? Although I was relieved to find the camera, I was mad at myself for not taking the opportunity in the search to fish.

2847_Lake 10401 camp.jpg
2841_Lakes below 10401.jpg
2848_Lk10401 from Dykman.jpg
There were off and on brief rainstorms all afternoon. I fished, wandered around, bathed, washed clothes, and eventually cooked a fishless dinner. There are two small lakes below Lake 10401 that may have fish, but I was too tired to fish them; the drop down was not an easy route being very cliffy.
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Re: TR: Blackcap, Blue Canyon, Tunemah, Bench Valley, Devils Punchbowl

Post by Wandering Daisy »

7/30 Lake 10401 to Lake 10458 below Tunemah Lake
3.1 miles, 4 hours, +1405 elevation


I was up early eager to get moving so that I would have plenty of time to fish and explore the small basin of lakes below Tunemah Lake. I had day-hiked this before, assuming no fish so did not take my gear and then spotted fish; this time I wanted to camp at one of these lakes and catch some of those fish. On my previous trip I totally missed Dykman Pass, going too far south and had a difficult descent into a very stunningly beautiful lake surrounded by cliffs just south of Dykman Pass. This time I hit the correct pass and as I took a break within half a mile of this lake, was so tempted to go over to the lake.
2850-51_unnamed Alpine Creek lake.jpg

But Tunemah was my goal, so I took photos then continued to traverse into the upper reaches of Alpine Creek. The Creek was low but still flowing and the valley was full of grasses and huge blobs of moss. The “pass” to Tunemah Lake is cliffy and the trick is to avoid the car-sized talus. I managed to find a good route on the east side. Tunemah Lake is quite impressive when you reach the top, and there it is; the deepest blue lake possible.

2855-58_upper Alpine Cr.jpg
2859-61_Tunemah Lake.jpg

The descent into the bench with the lower lakes was more challenging than I had remembered, partly due to now carrying a full pack instead of day-hiking. It is not hard, but definitely a “fall-you-die” route. I headed directly to the unnamed lake just north of Lake 10458 and checked out two campsites. Both lakes are very scenic and it was a hard decision which to stay at. I finally decided to drop to the lower Lake 10458 and found a wonderful campsite where I had plenty of trees with dry spots to cook if it rained. I set up, took a quick bucket-bath and then it rained. I watched the water dripping from the tent fly pool up at one end. Thankfully the rain stopped before I was flooded.

2868_Lk10458 camp.jpg
2866_Lk10458 fish.jpg
2875-77_Lk10458.jpg
116_1675B_Lk10458 in 2006.jpg


The rest of the afternoon was spent fishing, running back to the tent while it rained, and again fishing. I caught one nice fish and left it on the stringer in the lake. I walked to the far western shore to fish, only to run back to the tent before I even had a line in the water. Then I fished again close to my tent, caught two more fish, and cleaned them just before another rainstorm. I cooked dinner under my umbrella of trees while drops pelted the tent. The storm did produce some nice sunset lighting.
2875-77_Lk10458.jpg


7/31 Lake 10458 back to western Blue Canyon Lake at 10390
5 miles, 5.2 hours, +2225 elevation


As much as I wanted to stay another day at the lakes below Tunemah Lake, I decided it would be better logistically to return to the Blue Canyon Lakes to be in a better position to go over Blue Canyon Pass to make it to Goddard Lake 10232, if the weather cleared. After taking more photos in the morning at the upper lake, I returned to Dykman Pass. Clouds again built by 11AM. I made it to the westernmost Blue Canyon Lake at 11:30 as rain threatened. I picked a site on the west end of the lake, only to have hundreds of red ants explode out of the ground! I quickly shook them off everything and literally ran to the inlet, nearly tripping over myself, to find another site without the army of ants.

After setting up I fished the east shore of the lake, catching many fish. I also went back over to the lake to the southeast to see if it also had fish; no luck. All the time it spit rain. I hiked up the inlet just out of curiosity and found a beautiful meandering stream in a grassy meadow. It also cleared enough for bath in the inlet stream. Amazingly, there were no mosquitoes. Other than the ants, it was a lovely day.

2885-88_Pt11987_Alt.jpg
2892_Camp at West Blue Canyon Lake.jpg
2896-98_meadow above WBlueCanyon Lk.jpg
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Re: TR: Blackcap, Blue Canyon, Tunemah, Bench Valley, Devils Punchbowl

Post by Wandering Daisy »

8/1 Blue Canyon Lake at 10390 to Cathderal Lake
5.1 miles, 4.8 hours, +1275 elevation


It was decision time. It did not dawn crystal clear; clouds still lingered. I finally opted for the safe alternative- return to Blackcap Basin and camp at Cathedral Lake. Instead of the more ambitious route via Blue Canyon and Finger Pass, I simply returned over Mantel Pass, this time finding a much better route. Practice makes perfect. Once at the head of Crown Basin, I followed the creek on the south side, crossed to the north, and traversed upward on slabs for a surprisingly easy route to the basin containing Midway, Cathedral and Chapel Lakes. The small cirque southwest of Cathedral Lake is also quite scenic.

2909_Hummingbird Lk meadow.jpg
2915_upper Crown Basin.jpg
I found a nice campsite, out in the open but with plenty of sheltered niches in rocks to cook out of the wind. It was a puffy cloud afternoon, but no rain. There was a group of tents on the northeast shore and a fellow was camped on the other side of the outlet from me; the first people I had seen since the first day. Given the people, I found a hidden bend in the outlet stream for a bath and washed clothes. Wandering across the outlet to fish, I met the fellow, who happened to be a HST member! We had a nice visit and compared fishing gear; his was much more high-tech than my ratty old 50-year old rod and creaking reel. Fish were not feeding at the time. A bit later, I fished near my campsite and immediately caught a large fish about 14 inches, a bit skinny and big-headed but big enough for dinner. Cathedral Lake is beautiful and it was one of the best days of the trip.
2919_Cathedral Lake camp.jpg
2925_Cathedra Lake fish.jpg
2926-27_Cathedral Lake camp.jpg
2921-23_Cathedral Lake.jpg
2936_Cathedral Lake_sunset.jpg
2940_Cathedral Peak reflection in pond.jpg
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Re: TR: Blackcap, Blue Canyon, Tunemah, Bench Valley, Devils Punchbowl

Post by Wandering Daisy »

8/2 Cathedral Lake to Holster Lake via Blackcap Pass
8.7 miles, 7.6 hours, +1740 elevation


Some days everything seems to be harder; this was one. It was like some evil spirit was pulling me the wrong direction!

I hated to leave Cathedral Lake, leaving at 7:15 and reaching Division Lake in less than an hour. I had intended to reach the Six-Shooter/Schoolmarm lakes via the more scenic route to Confusion Lake and Gunsight Pass. In spite of having done the route before, I headed up from Blackcap Basin in the wrong gully getting caught in a million small cliffs and route problems. I was not sure exactly where I was spit out once I reached the flat above Lightning Corral Meadow. I traversed too far west and totally missed Rainbow Lake.

At that point, it was more reasonable to continue over Blackcap Pass. My opinion that the descent west from this pass is class 3 for short people was reconfirmed. I had to lower my pack twice, slipped and twisted my wrist, and cussed all the way down. It is well marked with cairns, but there are mighty big “steps”, and of course, a lot of “fall you die” sections.

Horseshoe Lake looked very dried out and tired. I had camped here before and the fishing was great but my goal this trip was the upper lakes. In the past there has been a relatively visible trail from Horsehead Lake to Schoolmarm. There is hardly a trail even to Filly Lake, and I either totally missed the trail from that point, or it has gone missing due to little use. The terrain is frustratingly difficult to navigate and very vegetated. I never quite knew where I was, although you cannot get really lost. I was happy to stumble upon the eastern Twin Buck Lake and recognized where I was. Shortly I was up at Schoolmarm Lake which is not that impressive.

But turn the corner into Six-Shooter, Holster and Bullet Lake and you enter a different world. I spent plenty of time wandering around looking for the perfect campsite, settling a bit above the inlet to Holster Lake. Bullet Lake was also very inviting, but I wanted to be located in the middle of these lakes for fishing. Well, I did not fish and instead focused on getting some good photos. Weather was perfect. The north inlet to Six Shooter Lake is very pretty. Wah Hoo Lake is so-so. It was a fairly lazy afternoon. I did not see a person all day.

2952_Holster Lake camp.jpg
2959-61_Six shooter Lake.jpg
2965-67_Bullet Lake.jpg
2971-72_Bullet Lake pond.jpg
2975-76_Holster Lake.jpg
8/3 Holster Lake to Devils Punchbowl
6 miles, 6.8 hours, +950 elevation


I again left at 7:15 and dropped to Crabtree Lake finding a good route. Then I stupidly tried to traverse to save a few feet elevation and ended up having to drop down anyway. I headed up one gully too early to the beautiful little valley south of Mt Hutton, making it more work than needed. I crossed the valley and headed up a steep timbered slope and then aimed for Lucifer’s Pass. Luckily I remembered that the “pass” is not the low point you see on the ridge. I got a bit high but the 200-foot drop to the northern part of the “pass” was easy. I had done this pass previously in a high snow year. I must have been on snow then, because I do not recall all the talus. I also did not remember the beautiful little valley before you drop into Big Shot Lake. I continued to the north shore of Devil’s Punchbowl to set up camp and was surprised that I was the only one there. Big Shot Lake is more scenic, but I had camped there before and wanted to try something different.
2979_Lucifers Pass_labeled.jpg
2985_Pond in valle above Big Shot.jpg
2991-92_Big-LittleShot-DevilsPunchbow.jpg
2993-4_Big Shot lake.jpg
2995_Little Shot Lake.jpg
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Re: TR: Blackcap, Blue Canyon, Tunemah, Bench Valley, Devils Punchbowl

Post by Wandering Daisy »

I then went back up to Big Shot and fished, catching a few small fish, releasing all but one. Little Shot Lake produced only very tiny fish so the few I caught were thrown back. I dropped down the drainage from Little Shot to Devils Punchbowl and walked around the lake fishing. It was windy so casting was tricky. Nevertheless I caught a batch of nice fat fish. By the time I reached camp my arm was tired from carrying them! After dinner I scoped out my intended off-trail route to intersect the Hell for Sure Trail about a mile below Fleming Lake. I spent the night debating with myself about that route or simply taking the longer trail route.
2999-3000_Devils Punchbowl.jpg
3002_Devils Punchbowl camp.jpg
2996_fish from Devils Punchbowl.jpg

8/4 Devils Punchbowl to Maxon TH
14.3 miles, 8 hours, +1415/-3420 elevation


By morning I had one big question for myself. If the off-trail route saved 2.5 miles and 420 elevation gain, why was this route not used for the trail? What the hell, I would just walk the extra miles; brainless putting one foot in front of the other sounded good after my last two days of route finding difficulties. I am curious if anyone has done the direct off-trail route.

I finally met people as I neared Fleming Lake, where there also were several tents set up. Quite a few hikers were coming up the trail. I took a big break at the trail junction. It was then seven miles of tedious, long, hot, dry trail back to the trailhead. This time I took the correct trail. I am not fond of the Maxon Meadow trailhead. I washed off best I could with jugs of water in my car.

The dispersed campsites along the reservoir were full of people so I decided to drive down the road to find a place to camp. Big mistake; the pull-outs along the road are miserable (dusty and noisy) since the forests along the road are being extensively logged after last year’s fire. I finally found a little pull out on a side road just before dark.

Next day, once I reached the FS office in Prather, I pulled into the parking lot and cleaned up and organized gear. It was nice to have a paved parking lot to lay everything out. I would meet my husband at Princess Campground in Sequoia NF; he would be joining me with the trailer. We would hang out four days, drop my car at Roads End and he would drop me off at Wolverton for my next trip. When I arrived at the campground, the “trailer site” we booked on reserve.gov was totally unsuitable for a trailer. The FS camp host was very helpful and relocated us at a non-reserved site with no extra charge. The next lazy four days were full of lots of wine, yummy barbeque dinners, driving around back roads (convincing me never to use the Sequoia Forest trailheads- the road was paved but one lane with big drop offs. I got so stressed that my husband insisted we go back before I had a total freak-out). We also checked out a lot of free dispersed camping areas for future trips. We also concluded that Forest Service campground were much better and more flexible than SEKI campgrounds, where half the sites were empty but they would not let you simply pay for one. Instead you had to use reserve.gov, which required internet, but there was no internet/Wi-Fi. How stupid.

Well since Harlen addad a map to his trip report, here is mine.
Route Map_cropped.jpg
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Re: TR: Blackcap, Blue Canyon, Tunemah, Bench Valley, Devils Punchbowl

Post by sekihiker »

I don't care what you said about the photos. They looked great to me. And thanks for all the details of your journey.
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Re: TR: Blackcap, Blue Canyon, Tunemah, Bench Valley, Devils Punchbowl

Post by tlsharb »

Well WD, I missed you by a day on each end. We headed in from Maxon on 7/78 and pulled up stakes at the Punchbowl on 8/2. Agree that the hike from Post Corral to the trailhead is pretty boring slog.
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Re: TR: Blackcap, Blue Canyon, Tunemah, Bench Valley, Devils Punchbowl

Post by astrogerly »

Stunning photos and great report!! Thanks for posting, WD! I’m pretty sure my list of places to visit just keeps growing and growing! 😉 Reminds me I need to post my trip report from a week of wandering… (we too skipped Ionian due to wx… and time)
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Re: TR: Blackcap, Blue Canyon, Tunemah, Bench Valley, Devils Punchbowl

Post by Harlen »

Wandering Daisy,
Thanks for a super informative, well documented TR. I followed along with you on the map. And we were in many of the same places, a week or so apart. You did get more of the rough weather than we did. Lizzie and I are now keen to get more trips into the LeConte-White Divide areas you showed us in this report. "Bullet and Holster" Lakes look really nice, your fish looked nice too; and some were caught in the other scenic attraction- Cathedral Lake. Perfect. We have been toying with a similar route that you seem to recommend- the use of an assortment of passes-- Gunsight, Confusion, Finger Col, Blue Canyon Pass, and Mantle to explore both sides of the divide.

Michael and I too were attracted to the beautiful, white granite basin just south of Dykeman Pass. I can see a basecamp there, with a day trip to Tunemah Lake. Either in and out via Mantle, or over B.C. Pass to return via Finger Col. And if Cathedral Lake is so nice, another fine route might be to use Finger Col as the way over to a base in the lake basin north of Finger, and make it from there, to Tunemah Lake for a quick swim, and return. That short-cut crossing is really pretty easy. Wasn't it you that got us started thinking about that short-cut?

Anyhow, congratulations on your solo trip into wonderland, Ian.
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Re: TR: Blackcap, Blue Canyon, Tunemah, Bench Valley, Devils Punchbowl

Post by giantbrookie »

It's amazing that two great trips converged on that crown jewel, the basin E of Tunemah, on the same week. What a wonderful trip. Of all the places I've been the Sierra, I think I'd rank the basin E of Tunemah no.1. I spent so little time there on a dayhike there from Blue Canyon in 2008, but I would really like to camp and spend a layover day there someday. These reports really get me daydreaming.
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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