Cathedral Range West Side Cirques
9/7-15, 2021
On the west side of the Cathedral Range, glaciers have carved five cirques with hanging valleys containing several lakes and ponds: 1) headwaters of Fletcher Creek including Townsley Lake and Vogelsang Lake, 2) the hanging valley of Bernice/Gallison Lakes that flow into Lewis Creek, 3) Florence Creek with Florence Lake and its upper lakes that flow into Lewis Creek, 4) the hanging valley of Hutchings Creek with its upper lakes that flow into the Lyell Fork of the Merced River and 5) the large hanging valley and benches of the Lyell Fork of the Merced. Note that the Lyell Fork of the Merced is not any part of the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne.
On previous trips I had quickly passed through all of these except never to Florence Lake; and now wanted to spend a little more time to day-hike and fish. There are well maintained trails to reach each creek that drains each cirque, but challenging ascents up relatively steep, cliffy walls to reach the hanging valleys and upper lakes (except for Townsley which is very easy).
Luckily, smoke was not an issue and there even were some exceptionally clear days after a cleansing storm on the third day. Other than the usual crowds around Vogelsang Sierra High Camp area, there were very few people. My over-ambitious initial plan included an in-out loop adding McClure Lake and Lyell Canyon one way and Rafferty Creek the other. In the end I did a simple in and out via Rafferty Creek; 67.4 miles in 9 days, with the first and last day including 4-5 hours driving.
9/7 Wilderness Center TH to Townsley Lake
8.2 miles 4.7 hours, +1785 elevation (including 4 hour drive)
I left town at 6AM and the drive was surprisingly quick, reaching the Wilderness Center to pick up my permit at 10:15. The parking lot had only a few cars with some construction equipment in the center, including a highway electronic sign which looked like it was just stored there. I was so focused on getting on the trail that this oddity did not register and I paid the sign no attention. The official giving me the permit said nothing of this.
o
It was a boring, painful slog up the trail to Tuolumne Pass; my pack was too heavy, it was hot and there was no water. Thankfully the trail has a gentle grade and lots of shade for rests. Being day after Labor Day, many backpackers were coming down the trail, including the ever large number of day-hikers. Initially I thought I might return over Parsons Peak and come out via McClure Lake and Lyell Canyon so I camped at Townsley Lake (it was one of my “must see” locations) just in case I did not come back. I used the exact campsite I had been to a few years ago. I fished a bit with little luck which was probably fortunate because I really needed to eat up some of the food! The sunset was beautiful as usual. There was just a bit of haze, which made the distant peaks blurry.
9/8 Townsley Lake to Florence Lake
5.4 miles, 4.5 hours, +1260/-1725 elevation
Back and forth weighing route options kept me awake much of the night and I awoke tired, still unsure of going up to Bernice Lake or Florence Lake or simply getting as far as I could towards the Lyell Fork of the Merced. I would just see how I felt. Vogelsang Lake was crowded with backpackers and I was glad I chose Townsley Lake. At the pass, I studied my intended route up Parsons Peak if I kept to my original plan. I had done it in 2006, but it looked awful! Upper Lewis Creek is quite pretty, still flowing a bit with good quality water and nice campsites, although views are pretty woodsy. I was feeling good at the junction to Bernice Lake and decided to go on to Florence Lake.
I started straight up the granite slabs just left of the falls until it got a bit too steep for my taste. Then I traversed left over to the trees and found a come-and-go use trail with dirt and grass just about as steep as the rock slabs. There were distinct cairns at critical locations. I was beat by the time I got to the lower set of lakes and stopped for a long rest and lunch. Somehow these lower lakes escaped my notice when I was looking at the map. I thought I was at Florence Lake but still had more elevation gain. Thankfully it looked a lot longer than it was. There are not many campsites at Florence Lake with one large established site near the outlet, but the deep duff forest floor would not hold my tent stakes. So I moved over to the grassy shore; an illegal site, but it held my stakes. By the time I got set up and cleaned up I had wasted an hour.
The plan was to day-hike to the next lake up, and there probably was plenty of time. The view from Florence Lake is limited as the 600 foot cliff blocks views to the upper peaks, except their tops. I was out of gas and the terrain looked difficult and cliffy. I punted and fished near the outlet. I regret not doing the day-hike; but I will just have to come back and try again.
Florence Lake is not easy to fly fish as it has little open shore for back casting. The fish were small so I did not try to hook any- just played with them. Well, later in the afternoon when I really wanted to catch a fish, none were interested. Clouds were building all afternoon. My In-Reach weather report had 10% chance of rain for the next day. Cooler weather would actually be a blessing.
TR Yosemite: Cathedral Range 9/7-15
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Wandering Daisy
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TR Yosemite: Cathedral Range 9/7-15
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rlown
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Re: TR Yosemite: Cathedral Range 9/7-15
Nice report so far. Wrong end of Townsley for fishing though. The target is the inlet. Fish it right off the bottom and pull up.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite: Cathedral Range 9/7-15
9/9 Florence Lake to Hutchings Lake 10505
9.2 miles, 7.3 hours +2775/-2160 elevation
I left Florence Lake at 8AM and this time found the use-trail. I circled the north side of the lower lakes, which worked out much better and passed by huge wonderful campsites. The lower lakes also have a good view and small fish. Continuing down, the use trail avoided the granite slabs I had come up. It only took 45 minutes to drop down to the Lewis Creek trail.
The elevation drop down Lewis Creek is disappointing since you have to immediately gain it all back. I met two fellows going down on the switchbacks as I went up. After about 800 feet gain I was on the sandy flat top and took a rest. The first creek shortly down from the broad flat top was running with good water. I had carried up a liter of water because I was not sure there would be water along this high trail that parallels the lower trail from Merced Lake past Washburn Lake. There were glimpses of Merced Lake and the cliffs west of Washburn and Red Devil Creek. The trail drops to a vegetated draw that also had two streams with water although only one had good flow. Then up again, like a roller coaster, and down towards the Lyell Fork of the Merced. Along the way a large group of about 10 were going the opposite direction.
I left the trail about 100 feet above the Lyell Fork of the Merced, with all intention of walking the slabs above the river and head to the broad bench full of lakes on the upper Lyell Fork. The slabs were not cooperating; the terrain was forcing me up and I finally came to a gap I could not cross. Guess I was going up to Hutchings Creek instead!
A steep ridge was between me and Hutchings Creek. I looked upward and saw a familiar slot. If you stay left, on the broken slabs, it is quite easy until the slot is reached. The ascent of the narrow slot is full of large talus and requires a few climbing moves. Had I not done it before I think I would have questioned if it really would work. I popped out of the slot onto a dry bed of what was a shallow pond and then basically hopped rocks right up the streambed. I had previously camped on the west shore of the first lake so went around that direction, forgetting all the little arms and ponds, some now dry, some soggy, that I had to walk around. In retrospect, I should have passed the lake on the east, but it was cliffy.
After about half an hour resting and evaluating campsites, I decided that I had time to continue to the next lake where the view was better. As the sky was becoming filled with clouds I found a great little site snuggled among large rocks which would offer some wind protection, at the south end of a small pond west of the mid-point of Lake 10505. I put down my pack and searched several other sites coming back to this one. I washed myself and clothes and cooked a nice dinner and hit the tent early. While looking out the tent door the peaks were aglow so I popped out and took more photos.
At 11:30 PM I saw a flash of lightning, but heard no thunder; it was a long ways off. Then more, lightning, this time with thunder. I battened up the door, and soon it was like a shower, the wind throwing buckets of rain that lasted what seemed to be hours. I slept little in spite of the tent holding up quite well and luckily, drainage was good. This was quite the “10% chance of rain!
9/10 Rain and Hutchings valley day hike
2.9 miles, 3.3 hours, +2175 elevation
By 5AM stars were out. I dozed a bit then got out to get my bear can, which I had forgotten to turn upside-down. Having lost the O-ring years ago, it leaked. So I dumped out all the food in the tent vestibule and found a quarter inch of water in the bottom. It started lightly raining again. I wiped the wet food bags dry. Only one bag of food got wet so it would have to be tonight’s dinner. It continued to rain until 8AM, heavy at times. I cooked breakfast in the vestibule of the lee side of the tent with one flap open. Rain turned to drizzle, then nothing but huge threatening black clouds speeding across the sky.
From 10:30AM to 2PM I day-hiked to the uppermost lake and back. The tops of the peaks were often in the clouds. It was actually quite amazing with sun shining on the peaks against a dark gray, moving so fast that I barely got my camera out before the light changed. I just clicked tons of photos, hoping a few would be good. I absolutely love the upper Hutchings drainage; it is like a playground of rock slabs, narrow slots, hidden lakes, and earlier in the season beautiful wildflowers, lush grass and rushing waterfalls. The grass was now the yellow of late fall and the creeks were barely flowing, but still with some nice little waterfalls.
I had thought I might camp at one of these upper lakes, but am glad I did not; it is very exposed. I also got a good view of Sluggo Pass and decided to instead drop to the Lyell Fork of the Merced and back up to the upper lakes; the longer but easier route. After the storm it was cold, and back at the tent soon became chilled so cooked an early dinner and amazingly slept well.
9.2 miles, 7.3 hours +2775/-2160 elevation
I left Florence Lake at 8AM and this time found the use-trail. I circled the north side of the lower lakes, which worked out much better and passed by huge wonderful campsites. The lower lakes also have a good view and small fish. Continuing down, the use trail avoided the granite slabs I had come up. It only took 45 minutes to drop down to the Lewis Creek trail.
The elevation drop down Lewis Creek is disappointing since you have to immediately gain it all back. I met two fellows going down on the switchbacks as I went up. After about 800 feet gain I was on the sandy flat top and took a rest. The first creek shortly down from the broad flat top was running with good water. I had carried up a liter of water because I was not sure there would be water along this high trail that parallels the lower trail from Merced Lake past Washburn Lake. There were glimpses of Merced Lake and the cliffs west of Washburn and Red Devil Creek. The trail drops to a vegetated draw that also had two streams with water although only one had good flow. Then up again, like a roller coaster, and down towards the Lyell Fork of the Merced. Along the way a large group of about 10 were going the opposite direction.
I left the trail about 100 feet above the Lyell Fork of the Merced, with all intention of walking the slabs above the river and head to the broad bench full of lakes on the upper Lyell Fork. The slabs were not cooperating; the terrain was forcing me up and I finally came to a gap I could not cross. Guess I was going up to Hutchings Creek instead!
A steep ridge was between me and Hutchings Creek. I looked upward and saw a familiar slot. If you stay left, on the broken slabs, it is quite easy until the slot is reached. The ascent of the narrow slot is full of large talus and requires a few climbing moves. Had I not done it before I think I would have questioned if it really would work. I popped out of the slot onto a dry bed of what was a shallow pond and then basically hopped rocks right up the streambed. I had previously camped on the west shore of the first lake so went around that direction, forgetting all the little arms and ponds, some now dry, some soggy, that I had to walk around. In retrospect, I should have passed the lake on the east, but it was cliffy.
After about half an hour resting and evaluating campsites, I decided that I had time to continue to the next lake where the view was better. As the sky was becoming filled with clouds I found a great little site snuggled among large rocks which would offer some wind protection, at the south end of a small pond west of the mid-point of Lake 10505. I put down my pack and searched several other sites coming back to this one. I washed myself and clothes and cooked a nice dinner and hit the tent early. While looking out the tent door the peaks were aglow so I popped out and took more photos.
At 11:30 PM I saw a flash of lightning, but heard no thunder; it was a long ways off. Then more, lightning, this time with thunder. I battened up the door, and soon it was like a shower, the wind throwing buckets of rain that lasted what seemed to be hours. I slept little in spite of the tent holding up quite well and luckily, drainage was good. This was quite the “10% chance of rain!
9/10 Rain and Hutchings valley day hike
2.9 miles, 3.3 hours, +2175 elevation
By 5AM stars were out. I dozed a bit then got out to get my bear can, which I had forgotten to turn upside-down. Having lost the O-ring years ago, it leaked. So I dumped out all the food in the tent vestibule and found a quarter inch of water in the bottom. It started lightly raining again. I wiped the wet food bags dry. Only one bag of food got wet so it would have to be tonight’s dinner. It continued to rain until 8AM, heavy at times. I cooked breakfast in the vestibule of the lee side of the tent with one flap open. Rain turned to drizzle, then nothing but huge threatening black clouds speeding across the sky.
From 10:30AM to 2PM I day-hiked to the uppermost lake and back. The tops of the peaks were often in the clouds. It was actually quite amazing with sun shining on the peaks against a dark gray, moving so fast that I barely got my camera out before the light changed. I just clicked tons of photos, hoping a few would be good. I absolutely love the upper Hutchings drainage; it is like a playground of rock slabs, narrow slots, hidden lakes, and earlier in the season beautiful wildflowers, lush grass and rushing waterfalls. The grass was now the yellow of late fall and the creeks were barely flowing, but still with some nice little waterfalls.
I had thought I might camp at one of these upper lakes, but am glad I did not; it is very exposed. I also got a good view of Sluggo Pass and decided to instead drop to the Lyell Fork of the Merced and back up to the upper lakes; the longer but easier route. After the storm it was cold, and back at the tent soon became chilled so cooked an early dinner and amazingly slept well.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite: Cathedral Range 9/7-15
9/11 Hutchings to Lake 10211-Lyell Fork of the Merced including day-hike
7.6 miles, 7.4 hours, +2205/-2520 elevation
It would be a short distance to the hanging valley of the Lyell Fork of the Merced, leaving time to day-hike the upper lakes. I backtracked to the slot which was much easier to go down than up, down the slabs, ever stepping right as the rock’s trend was veering left until I reached about 9600 feet where I had to cross a slot canyon to reach the lower angle slabs.
Hitting Hutchings Creek too high in a tangle of brush, I went back down, crossed and began a traverse on the north side of the Lyell Fork at the edge of timber. It was a mistake, going against the numerous gullies which took more time than needed; it would have been better to lose a bit of elevation and walk the edge of the meadow and through some trees. My route finding up the headwall from 10,000 to 10,200 was also poor and I soon was making much more work than necessary by staying too close to the waterfall (what may look good on the map is not always a good route!). I finally reached the north end of Lake 10217, which I had marked on my USGS topo as a great campsite that I had seen on a previous trip; and it was! In spite of all my mistakes I set up camp just before noon.
I gave myself a 2PM turn-around time and started up the drainage, making it to about 11,200 feet, just shy of the last headwall where I could have had a view of the uppermost lakes. I had camped at these lakes before and you really had to get there to see the uppermost part of the cirque. I was disappointed, but stuck to my turn-around.
It was cloudy all day and again difficult to get good photos with the fast changing light. In my opinion, the upper Lyell Fork of the Merced is not as beautiful as Hutchings Creek; it is much more desolate looking with extensive talus and less vegetation. On the return I dropped down to the north shore of the lake at 10,400, shallow on the north shores with unappealing mud flats due to low water. Earlier in the year when the creeks are flowing, the little valleys up from this lake would be a beautiful campsite, but now it was too far from water sources.
I was back in camp by 3:30 in time to wash some clothes and socks and take a bath. Then I walked the west shore of Lake 10217 taking photos and observing campsites near the outlet. There were better views because you can see more of the upper cirque, but the ground was a bit lumpy. At any campsite at Lake 10217, Mt. Forrester dominates the view.
7.6 miles, 7.4 hours, +2205/-2520 elevation
It would be a short distance to the hanging valley of the Lyell Fork of the Merced, leaving time to day-hike the upper lakes. I backtracked to the slot which was much easier to go down than up, down the slabs, ever stepping right as the rock’s trend was veering left until I reached about 9600 feet where I had to cross a slot canyon to reach the lower angle slabs.
Hitting Hutchings Creek too high in a tangle of brush, I went back down, crossed and began a traverse on the north side of the Lyell Fork at the edge of timber. It was a mistake, going against the numerous gullies which took more time than needed; it would have been better to lose a bit of elevation and walk the edge of the meadow and through some trees. My route finding up the headwall from 10,000 to 10,200 was also poor and I soon was making much more work than necessary by staying too close to the waterfall (what may look good on the map is not always a good route!). I finally reached the north end of Lake 10217, which I had marked on my USGS topo as a great campsite that I had seen on a previous trip; and it was! In spite of all my mistakes I set up camp just before noon.
I gave myself a 2PM turn-around time and started up the drainage, making it to about 11,200 feet, just shy of the last headwall where I could have had a view of the uppermost lakes. I had camped at these lakes before and you really had to get there to see the uppermost part of the cirque. I was disappointed, but stuck to my turn-around.
It was cloudy all day and again difficult to get good photos with the fast changing light. In my opinion, the upper Lyell Fork of the Merced is not as beautiful as Hutchings Creek; it is much more desolate looking with extensive talus and less vegetation. On the return I dropped down to the north shore of the lake at 10,400, shallow on the north shores with unappealing mud flats due to low water. Earlier in the year when the creeks are flowing, the little valleys up from this lake would be a beautiful campsite, but now it was too far from water sources.
I was back in camp by 3:30 in time to wash some clothes and socks and take a bath. Then I walked the west shore of Lake 10217 taking photos and observing campsites near the outlet. There were better views because you can see more of the upper cirque, but the ground was a bit lumpy. At any campsite at Lake 10217, Mt. Forrester dominates the view.
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Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Mon Sep 20, 2021 3:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite: Cathedral Range 9/7-15
9/12 Lake 10217 to Bernice Lake
10.3 miles, 7.5 hours, +2520/-2465 elevation
I left at 8AM under crystal clear skies as the system that brought the stormy weather was gone. Although I found a better route down to the long meadow complex between 9500 feet and 9200 feet on the Lyell Fork of the Merced, getting down the first 200 feet of cliffs still was difficult. I met two friendly climbers headed up to base camp at Lake 10217 to climb three peaks.
Just before intersecting the trail I got one cliff too high and had to slither down a slot and finally began what was simply a long slog on well-maintained trails back to the Bernice Lake trail junction, which I reached at 3PM. With eyes to the ground, a “light and fast” backpacker passed me while I rested at Florence Creek Falls, with no response to my “hi”. After filling up with good water from Lewis Creek and eating a snack, I started up the hill to Bernice Lake, meeting a very happy woman with a wide smile, who had day-hiked to Bernice Lake and was camped on the top of Vogalsang Pass. She said I would have the lake to myself, which surprised me since I figured this was a popular destination.
I reached the lake about 4PM. The trail forks left or right to various camping areas; I chose right, dropped my pack in the grass by the lake and washed clothes and myself while I still had sunshine. A fish popped up to see the commotion, but I had neither energy or time to fish since I still had to find an adequate campsite on a bench above the lake and do all the camp shores before dark. I found a site with a few trees for wind protection from the lakeside; if wind came from southwest I was out of luck. By the time dinner was cooked the site was long into the shadows but the light warm breeze dried my clothes in spite of no sunshine. Point 11,998 at sunset provided a stunning end of the day. And I did have the lake all to myself!
9/13 Day hike and fish upper lakes
7.3 miles, 7.2 hours, +1400/-1400 elevation
I decided I would rather do a leisurely day-hike to all the lakes above Bernice Lake than head over Parsons Peak to McClure Lake for a loop exit down Lyell Canyon. I am really trying to spend more time at each highlight location rather than just running through. After a couple of long days, a second night at Bernice Lake was a no-brainer.
At 8:30 I started up the valley east-southeast of Bernice Lake staying on the northeast side to avoid talus and brush, through an upper little grassy flat and then steeply up to a broad saddle northwest of the uppermost large lake at 11,335 below Simmons Peak. To continue to the lake I had to cross the top of a moraine and up another 250 feet to the lake. The permanent snowfields shown on the map were gone, and the lake was surrounded by broken rock, making it look a bit stark.
Back down to the saddle, I dropped to upper lake of the drainage northeast of the one I came up and descended over dried grassy patches that had turned to the yellows and reds of fall. At Gallison Lake I fished a bit with no luck. Granted I was not very serious about fishing. The view at Gallison Lake is also very impressive but there is little wind protection. Then I dropped south to another lake just above Bernice Lake and fished, again with no luck.
I was back at camp by 2PM, took a break and then seriously fished Bernice Lake, catching two colorful Brookies on the north shore. While fishing I checked out the campsites; there are some nice sites in timber clumps, east of the outlet. Although better tent sites than mine and more protected, views of the colorful cliffs above Gallison Lake were not as visible.
Again I enjoyed the sunset at my site after a leisurely three course dinner including my fish. The wind howled all night, but thankfully it came across the lake and the little clump of trees protected the tent.
10.3 miles, 7.5 hours, +2520/-2465 elevation
I left at 8AM under crystal clear skies as the system that brought the stormy weather was gone. Although I found a better route down to the long meadow complex between 9500 feet and 9200 feet on the Lyell Fork of the Merced, getting down the first 200 feet of cliffs still was difficult. I met two friendly climbers headed up to base camp at Lake 10217 to climb three peaks.
Just before intersecting the trail I got one cliff too high and had to slither down a slot and finally began what was simply a long slog on well-maintained trails back to the Bernice Lake trail junction, which I reached at 3PM. With eyes to the ground, a “light and fast” backpacker passed me while I rested at Florence Creek Falls, with no response to my “hi”. After filling up with good water from Lewis Creek and eating a snack, I started up the hill to Bernice Lake, meeting a very happy woman with a wide smile, who had day-hiked to Bernice Lake and was camped on the top of Vogalsang Pass. She said I would have the lake to myself, which surprised me since I figured this was a popular destination.
I reached the lake about 4PM. The trail forks left or right to various camping areas; I chose right, dropped my pack in the grass by the lake and washed clothes and myself while I still had sunshine. A fish popped up to see the commotion, but I had neither energy or time to fish since I still had to find an adequate campsite on a bench above the lake and do all the camp shores before dark. I found a site with a few trees for wind protection from the lakeside; if wind came from southwest I was out of luck. By the time dinner was cooked the site was long into the shadows but the light warm breeze dried my clothes in spite of no sunshine. Point 11,998 at sunset provided a stunning end of the day. And I did have the lake all to myself!
9/13 Day hike and fish upper lakes
7.3 miles, 7.2 hours, +1400/-1400 elevation
I decided I would rather do a leisurely day-hike to all the lakes above Bernice Lake than head over Parsons Peak to McClure Lake for a loop exit down Lyell Canyon. I am really trying to spend more time at each highlight location rather than just running through. After a couple of long days, a second night at Bernice Lake was a no-brainer.
At 8:30 I started up the valley east-southeast of Bernice Lake staying on the northeast side to avoid talus and brush, through an upper little grassy flat and then steeply up to a broad saddle northwest of the uppermost large lake at 11,335 below Simmons Peak. To continue to the lake I had to cross the top of a moraine and up another 250 feet to the lake. The permanent snowfields shown on the map were gone, and the lake was surrounded by broken rock, making it look a bit stark.
Back down to the saddle, I dropped to upper lake of the drainage northeast of the one I came up and descended over dried grassy patches that had turned to the yellows and reds of fall. At Gallison Lake I fished a bit with no luck. Granted I was not very serious about fishing. The view at Gallison Lake is also very impressive but there is little wind protection. Then I dropped south to another lake just above Bernice Lake and fished, again with no luck.
I was back at camp by 2PM, took a break and then seriously fished Bernice Lake, catching two colorful Brookies on the north shore. While fishing I checked out the campsites; there are some nice sites in timber clumps, east of the outlet. Although better tent sites than mine and more protected, views of the colorful cliffs above Gallison Lake were not as visible.
Again I enjoyed the sunset at my site after a leisurely three course dinner including my fish. The wind howled all night, but thankfully it came across the lake and the little clump of trees protected the tent.
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Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Tue Sep 21, 2021 9:18 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite: Cathedral Range 9/7-15
8/14 Bernice Lake to Townsley Lake (including day-hikes)
7.2 miles, 5.6 hours, +1670/-1640 elevation
I left at 8:15 with the thought that I may even walk out to my car if I had time, but came to my senses when I reached Vogalsang Lake. If I walked out I would not have time to drive home and I would rather camp up here and fish instead of in the crowded backpacker’s campground at Tuolumne Meadows.
A few backpackers were going up to the pass and I chatted with them and met more people while on the way to Townsley Lake. I decided to just go back to the same campsite I had on the first night which would eliminate wasting time looking for another site. I wanted to fish Evelyn Lake but had no desire to camp there.
In the afternoon I hiked up the drainage to the lake behind a moraine at 10,700 feet. The view of Hanging Basket Lake tempted me to drop down and go up there first, but I instead traversed the hillside, dropped to a large flat with many ponds, some dried up, and dropped to Evelyn Lake. I was dubious about fishing because the lake looked so shallow but within half an hour, caught two large Rainbows! I was surprised I even landed one because the hook fell out before I got it all the way up on the rocks. I quickly got a death grip on the poor fish and put it on my stringer. Then I caught a larger fish which put up a good fight. I wrapped the fish in a kerchief, and put them in a gallon zip-lock with water. Carrying the fish in the leaky bag, I went back up the hill and got to camp at 3PM.
Just as I reached camp I met a fellow who had come over on the trail from Ireland Lake and said he observed Osprey plucking large fish right out of Evelyn Lake. He likely was walking the opposite shore while I was fishing. I had the prime large campsite and offered that he could also stay but he declined and found something at the inlet. I observed that later two other fellows showed up and camped at the inlet.
I cleaned my fish and cut the large one into three pieces and the smaller one into two and wrapped them in the kerchief. Worried about some bird or animal getting my fish, I hauled them with me when I washed a shirt and socks and myself. Just as I was dressed another fellow came up from the outlet, day-hiking and fishing. I told him I had just thrown the fish guts out into the lake and a fish surfaced. He fished and I went back to my camp which was behind a big rock between my tent and the lake. I had another many course dinner; tea with a sesame snap, fish, Alfredo noodles and a desert of hot chocolate topped off with dark chocolate- two pieces since this was my last night.
Both the first night and this night, I heard a frog croaking nearby but never saw him. I fell asleep to the frog’s song and a bright half-moon. I was very glad I did not decide to walk out.
8/15 Townsley Lake to TH (including finding car)
9.3 miles, 4.5 hours, +205/-1825 elevation
The walk out was uneventful until I came near the bridge across the creek near Tuolumne Meadows. The trail signs were confusing and annoyingly I had no idea of which to take to get back to the Wilderness Center TH. I took the PCT, not the JMT and ended up at the shut-down Tuolumne Lodge which now was a construction parking lot. I walked the paved road, past a large parking lot (Dog Lake TH) which I am sure is new because I do not remember ever seeing such before. Day hikers in a car stopped and were as confused as me. I asked a fellow parked on the road if I was headed right to get to the Wilderness Center, and he verified that it was close. I finally arrived only to find that the parking lot was closed, bear boxes piled in the center and my car GONE! A gal at the kiosk said my car had been towed to the Dog Lake Parking Lot, which I had just passed. She also was very snarky saying I should have read the sign that sat in the pile of junk in the parking lot when I got my permit.
So back up the road I went, walked up and down the rows of cars, only to find my car was not there. Back on the road I waved down a construction truck and the nice fellow told me some cars had been towed to the construction parking lot. He offered me a ride, but is truck was so full of stuff that I would not fit with my pack. I gave him my license number and he drove back to find my car so if it was not there I would not have another walk for no reason. He shortly came back and assured me my car was there. He also kindly told me that it was not my fault I was towed, because they only had to give 48-hour notice to when they would start paving. Me being out 9 days and construction ahead of schedule, there was no way I would know. I should have been told when I got my permit to park down the road.
I always have anxiety about my car not starting, but never thought it would not be where I had left it! Thankfully, I was not charged for towing. The drive home was an hour longer, with lots of road construction delays and I hit the end of work traffic once close to home. All in all, it was a good trip. When my trip to the Upper Kern was cancelled I was lucky to get a permit for the trip I had just done. In the mountains it sure feels like fall is on its way and days are certainly getting shorter. This may be my last trip for this year.
7.2 miles, 5.6 hours, +1670/-1640 elevation
I left at 8:15 with the thought that I may even walk out to my car if I had time, but came to my senses when I reached Vogalsang Lake. If I walked out I would not have time to drive home and I would rather camp up here and fish instead of in the crowded backpacker’s campground at Tuolumne Meadows.
A few backpackers were going up to the pass and I chatted with them and met more people while on the way to Townsley Lake. I decided to just go back to the same campsite I had on the first night which would eliminate wasting time looking for another site. I wanted to fish Evelyn Lake but had no desire to camp there.
In the afternoon I hiked up the drainage to the lake behind a moraine at 10,700 feet. The view of Hanging Basket Lake tempted me to drop down and go up there first, but I instead traversed the hillside, dropped to a large flat with many ponds, some dried up, and dropped to Evelyn Lake. I was dubious about fishing because the lake looked so shallow but within half an hour, caught two large Rainbows! I was surprised I even landed one because the hook fell out before I got it all the way up on the rocks. I quickly got a death grip on the poor fish and put it on my stringer. Then I caught a larger fish which put up a good fight. I wrapped the fish in a kerchief, and put them in a gallon zip-lock with water. Carrying the fish in the leaky bag, I went back up the hill and got to camp at 3PM.
Just as I reached camp I met a fellow who had come over on the trail from Ireland Lake and said he observed Osprey plucking large fish right out of Evelyn Lake. He likely was walking the opposite shore while I was fishing. I had the prime large campsite and offered that he could also stay but he declined and found something at the inlet. I observed that later two other fellows showed up and camped at the inlet.
I cleaned my fish and cut the large one into three pieces and the smaller one into two and wrapped them in the kerchief. Worried about some bird or animal getting my fish, I hauled them with me when I washed a shirt and socks and myself. Just as I was dressed another fellow came up from the outlet, day-hiking and fishing. I told him I had just thrown the fish guts out into the lake and a fish surfaced. He fished and I went back to my camp which was behind a big rock between my tent and the lake. I had another many course dinner; tea with a sesame snap, fish, Alfredo noodles and a desert of hot chocolate topped off with dark chocolate- two pieces since this was my last night.
Both the first night and this night, I heard a frog croaking nearby but never saw him. I fell asleep to the frog’s song and a bright half-moon. I was very glad I did not decide to walk out.
8/15 Townsley Lake to TH (including finding car)
9.3 miles, 4.5 hours, +205/-1825 elevation
The walk out was uneventful until I came near the bridge across the creek near Tuolumne Meadows. The trail signs were confusing and annoyingly I had no idea of which to take to get back to the Wilderness Center TH. I took the PCT, not the JMT and ended up at the shut-down Tuolumne Lodge which now was a construction parking lot. I walked the paved road, past a large parking lot (Dog Lake TH) which I am sure is new because I do not remember ever seeing such before. Day hikers in a car stopped and were as confused as me. I asked a fellow parked on the road if I was headed right to get to the Wilderness Center, and he verified that it was close. I finally arrived only to find that the parking lot was closed, bear boxes piled in the center and my car GONE! A gal at the kiosk said my car had been towed to the Dog Lake Parking Lot, which I had just passed. She also was very snarky saying I should have read the sign that sat in the pile of junk in the parking lot when I got my permit.
So back up the road I went, walked up and down the rows of cars, only to find my car was not there. Back on the road I waved down a construction truck and the nice fellow told me some cars had been towed to the construction parking lot. He offered me a ride, but is truck was so full of stuff that I would not fit with my pack. I gave him my license number and he drove back to find my car so if it was not there I would not have another walk for no reason. He shortly came back and assured me my car was there. He also kindly told me that it was not my fault I was towed, because they only had to give 48-hour notice to when they would start paving. Me being out 9 days and construction ahead of schedule, there was no way I would know. I should have been told when I got my permit to park down the road.
I always have anxiety about my car not starting, but never thought it would not be where I had left it! Thankfully, I was not charged for towing. The drive home was an hour longer, with lots of road construction delays and I hit the end of work traffic once close to home. All in all, it was a good trip. When my trip to the Upper Kern was cancelled I was lucky to get a permit for the trip I had just done. In the mountains it sure feels like fall is on its way and days are certainly getting shorter. This may be my last trip for this year.
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rlown
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Re: TR Yosemite: Cathedral Range 9/7-15
I love Evelyn. Fishes nice everywhere. There are leeches in the water. probably a food source. We found that out many years ago when my friend decided to fish "the northeast bench w/o shoes. "what are these between my toes?" Leeches!
Glad the fish are still there.
The signs are very confusing on the way out. Had a friend who walked the wrong way, but we had walkie talkies so was able to direct him back.
We generally park at the Tuolumne lodge parking lot after we clear it with the ranger.
Nice trip, except for the car thing. Glad you got it back.
Glad the fish are still there.
The signs are very confusing on the way out. Had a friend who walked the wrong way, but we had walkie talkies so was able to direct him back.
We generally park at the Tuolumne lodge parking lot after we clear it with the ranger.
Nice trip, except for the car thing. Glad you got it back.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite: Cathedral Range 9/7-15
A few more photos of Hutchings Creek lakes. Also a photo form 2010 just to show how much better everything looks in early season good weather, when there is water in the creeks and green grass instead of yellowed grass.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite: Cathedral Range 9/7-15
rlown- there were tons of fish where I camped the first night. They just did not come up to feed until the next morning, and alas, I had already packed away my rod and was on my way out when there was a feeding frenzy for only about 20 minutes. So it was my timing, not location, that prevented me from catching fish.
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wildhiker
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Re: TR Yosemite: Cathedral Range 9/7-15
Great trip and great report to places that I like very much. Happy that you got blue skies instead of wildfire smoke! I still need to get into Hutchings Creek some day. I made one attempt on a trip to the Lyell Fork Merced in 2016, but ran out of time.
I was at Townsley Lake in August last year and noticed that the bottom of the shallow lakelet just above Townsley Lake was completely covered in algae. Did you notice that? With the recent report showing toxic algae mats in some lakes in 20 Lakes Basin east of the park, I am starting to worry about the possibility of algae toxins in our high country lakes.
This year, I went up to the plateau north of Townsley Lake via a direct cross-country route from Tuolumne Pass up the east side of the Rafferty Creek drainage to the west end of Evelyn Lake, and then up grassy chutes to the plateau (I then went on over the ridge to Ireland Lake). This cross-country was easy class 1 and avoided the zoo around the Vogelsang High Sierra Camp - you might try it if you head to Townsley Lake again.
-Phil
I was at Townsley Lake in August last year and noticed that the bottom of the shallow lakelet just above Townsley Lake was completely covered in algae. Did you notice that? With the recent report showing toxic algae mats in some lakes in 20 Lakes Basin east of the park, I am starting to worry about the possibility of algae toxins in our high country lakes.
This year, I went up to the plateau north of Townsley Lake via a direct cross-country route from Tuolumne Pass up the east side of the Rafferty Creek drainage to the west end of Evelyn Lake, and then up grassy chutes to the plateau (I then went on over the ridge to Ireland Lake). This cross-country was easy class 1 and avoided the zoo around the Vogelsang High Sierra Camp - you might try it if you head to Townsley Lake again.
-Phil
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