TR: Matterhorn Peak, May 30, 2021

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rs44
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TR: Matterhorn Peak, May 30, 2021

Post by rs44 »

May 30, Matterhorn Peak. 10 hours round-trip: 5.5 up and 3.5 down (1 on the summit).

There are a couple parking lots available at the resort, with the hiker's lot the furthest along the main road, keeping straight past the marina and ignoring the camping turn to the right. Some confusion about parking permits: Their booth says every car needs a permit, but they don't open until 8a and have no self-service.

Beginning is a bit confusing as well at first as there are multiple paths through the marshy area where Horse Creek Trail meets Upper Twin Lake. The correct trail, I believe, is the first right from the path that leads through the RV lot - it's a bigger path than the others.

The switchbacks on the lower part of the trail are super inefficient and annoying. Bob Burd (and others) have taken shortcuts by sticking next to Horse Creek. Probably worth considering if you're up for a little adventure.

Real slog begins around 9600 feet. Large patches of it cover parts of the trail, making adherence difficult especially as there are a number of use paths that wind over the rocks. Rather than go straight up the fairly firm snow patches - low enough angle and probably soft enough for kick-stepping; crampons, which I had, would've made those patches a breeze - I opted to route through the boulders on the left of the snow banks. Should have gone up the snow.

After the first sharp elevation increase, there's a brief plateau and still hundreds of feet above you, Horse Creek Pass. There's lots of running water for refills and, on May 30, safe snow pack to cross the stream any time you want.

On final approach to Horse Creek Pass, AllTrails recommends taking a route high to the right of the pass. This bypasses the largest and probably steepest snow bank that goes straight over the pass and continues on Horse Creek Trail, a path you'd follow to get, eg, to Whorl Mountain. Following the AllTrails route immediately leaves you on the talus and scree SE slope of the Matterhorn. I messed up and went straight over the Pass and had to double-back after crossing. Not a huge deal, but wasted some time and energy.

Here the hike devolves into tedium. There's roughly 1,400 feet of elevation gained in less than a mile on a scree slope. The views are pleasant but the terrain so annoying that it makes the hike rather miserable.

There was one almost sketchy snow field near the summit that had a horrendous runout and steep slope. However, there were many boot prints to follow, a number of them having postholed 6+ inches, so the risk was very low. I put my crampons on just in case, though I definitely did not need them (and did not wear them on descent).

At this point, the route is supposed to assume some fun Class 3 scrambling. It's very straightforward. There are no needed technical moves and most of the exposure is only 20-30 feet. Nothing feels sketchy; just scrambling on solid rock. Even coming down it's easy.

The summit block actually has exposure - you can look down a hundred feet in three directions. But there's nothing technical in getting to or walking around the summit. The register is box is older and hard to get the lid on or off.

On the way down, past Horse Creek Pass, I had to keep checking AllTrails for my adherence, which got fairly annoying to keep looking at the device every couple dozen steps (point-and-shooting downhill also works just fine). Following the trail did make things pretty easy. I got to glissade down a couple snowbanks in wonderful condition for arrests.

More info and pics: https://thehighsierra.co/matterhorn-pea ... y-30-2021/
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Matterhorn Peak, May 30, 2021

Post by Wandering Daisy »

I have only descended the route you did. For the technical routes you approach adjacent drainage to the NW to a small lake. After some elevation gain on snow, and the routes are quite nice.

Your photos are very nice. The climb is a significant elevation gain for a day-trip; 4360 feet. You still were in pretty good shape to do the climb!

I wonder what it would be like to climb from Burro Pass?
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bobby49
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Re: TR: Matterhorn Peak, May 30, 2021

Post by bobby49 »

Wandering Daisy wrote: Mon Jun 07, 2021 7:10 pm I wonder what it would be like to climb from Burro Pass?
I do not recall it as being tough. It was more of a talus and scree slog. It went pretty easy until we got off-route near the top on Class 4.
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pcole
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Re: TR: Matterhorn Peak, May 30, 2021

Post by pcole »

The Burro Pass approach may be longer but it makes up for that by being a wonderful scenic approach. Good camping can be found at the so called 'Finger Lakes' just below Burro Pass. I took a casual 2 days to get in position to climb the W Ridge of the Matterhorn. The above comment is correct. You can follow the W Ridge until it fits your comfort zone to move right into the gully and ascend that all the way to the connecting ridge just below the summit. If you continue via the W Ridge, you can use this aforementioned route as your descent. For a full trip report, take a look at:
https://amountainlifetime.net/content/g ... ridge-2018
One of the nicest ridge routes (4th class) that I've done in the Sierra. Solid rock and lots of options.
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