My Merced backpacking trip was from Nov. 29- Dec. 6
I returned to civilization on 12/6 after 8 short days and 7 very looonnnng nights in the Merced River country. It was very cold and quiet, and nearly all new country for me, as I have always avoided the Yosemite High Sierra Camp areas, and had never made it into the Clark Range. After 8,000' it was on again-off again with the snow shoes, especially on the north-facing slopes. Due to the paucity of snowfall so far this year the post-holing was never more than knee-deep, so I found that simply walking like a moose in the boots alone was the best method in all but the deepest areas. The average depth was just to boot tops. I am glad I decided not to take crampons, as the iciness on the south slopes and melted out rock was manageable with caution. There are two real risks I saw in traveling on this year's thin snow. The first obvious risk is breaking through the unstable ice covering lakes and streams. The second is the potential to punch through the unconsolidated snow found around big, jagged boulder fields. There is a real risk of damage to one's lower leg at the bottom of these holes. I test ahead of me with my lengthened Whippet/ski pole, and never jump from a height into a snow-covered boulder area.
[My first effort at including a Caltopo.] (Cl. to enlarge) The Red fire & tent symbols represent my camps, except for my camp at Vogelsang, which is marked with a "C." My route on trails is marked in Blue, and the black arrows show my clockwise circle- up Fletcher Creek, and back down Lewis Cr. The Green lines are for off-trail ventures. Black triangles mark mountains significant to the trip, and the Blue circles denote the off-route passes I used to get across the Clark Range. I hope to keep improving on these maps.
I chose my new, light summer boots, full gaitors, my smallest snow shoes, and the Whippet tool. I also brought extra warm socks, and plastic bags for a vapor/water barrier, and I'm glad I did because the boots were soaked nearly every day! My original pack weight for 7-10 days was 37 lbs. [The topo map is a useful item, but one has to actually take it out and look at it.)
On the third day I crossed Vogelsang Pass, and climbed up Fletcher Peak on the way, for wonderful views. Bears broke the trail for me on many occasions- saw their tracks (only!) nearly every day.
Some are definitely still out and about, and I felt their presence, along with the many coyotes, whose tracks also shared my trails. All I saw for animals were a crowd of deer in the Valley, including some sharp-antlered bucks, and the giant gray squirrels around Happy Isles. Higher up it was just Chicarees, one Pika, and some nice bird life, including Woodpeckers, Nuthatches and Townsend's Solitaires, and the other usual locals- Raven, Clarkies, Chicadees, Juncos... I did see a huge mixed flock of approximately 100 ducks on Merced Lake, mostly Mallards and Scaups, and in the forest there were small flocks of American Robins.
My two favorite actual animal sights were these 3 round, white Ptarmigans, who let me walk right up to them, and one big Red Tailed Hawk circling close above me in brilliant morning light. [Having the binos on me was again well worth the weight.]
I started and ended this trip at Happy Isles, so for a few hours on each end of the trip I was among friendly crowds, and in between-- no one for 7 full days. I had a really fine time even without a dog; that was the greatest lack, but a second was the lack of a headlamp (left in the car), so I had nothing but firelight throughout the trip.
I had a campfire almost every night (rule is 9,600' or below for YNP), and learned to stockpile more small kindling bits, which I could use to create brightness when I needed it. I found ways to read by firelight, but breathed in a lot of smoke for it, since I maintain smallish fires. The nights were sometimes so long that I would arise and rekindle a fire in the early morning hours to wile away the time- full moon and star-gazing, and reading. I had cold, clear, and blessedly windless weather till the very last cloudy night. I only used the tent on 2 nights, slept out the rest, and stayed warm enough. I guess the coldest nights were low teens, as water in the pot formed a thick frozen layer in 20 minutes.
I feel these late coming winters can be used for easy winter mountaineering rather than just cursing the lack of snow for ski touring. I had ambitious plans to try to also climb Simmons Peak for fun, and Parson's Peak to hunt for a sight of the recently re-introduced Bighorn Sheep population.
I wanted to climb Fletcher Peak for the insight it would give me into the surrounding area, which I have long intended to explore on skis from the TM Ski Hut. I only managed the climb of Fletcher, but it proved to be a good vantage point to glass the slopes all around Parsons Pk.
View of Parson's Peak with no sheep to be seen, "Hanging Basket Lake" in the foreground.
On this trip I adjusted my planned route in a couple of sensible ways, but also made a mistake almost too lame to admit. But I am among friends right, and no one will do more than call me a jackass, which is a name I am fond of. I will provide my weak excuses along with photo documentation of my stupidity.
The Clark Range was a happy surprise. There are some wild crags to the east of Mt Clark, like "the Obelisk," and Mt.Clark itself is stunning, as is my own errant "Red Peak." The granite slopes, lakes and colorful geology of the Red Peak Fork were wonderful, and I loved the view eastward from high in the Clark Range. Being nicely separated, as a kind of "island range" within the Merced watershed, the Clark gives a unique, long clean view of the mountains to the east.
View east from the Clark Range-- Mt. Rodgers to the Minarets.
From Happy Isles the trail passes by the two famous, but dormant falls, and Liberty Cap. I should have taken the JMT just to the west, as the "Mist Trail" is an interminable series of killing steep stone steps. (This photo is taken from the south, on my way back.)
The forest around Little Yosemite Valley is a mixture of healthy and diverse conifer forest, and a mosaic of fire events. This old sugar pine is 24 feet in circumference!
Incense cedar trees coming back from the dead.
Trip Report: A Cold, Quiet Merced Circle
-
Harlen
- Topix Addict
- Posts: 2097
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:13 am
- Experience: Level 4 Explorer
- Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
Trip Report: A Cold, Quiet Merced Circle
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by Harlen on Sun Mar 14, 2021 7:27 pm, edited 15 times in total.
Properly trained, a man can be dog’s best friend.
-
Harlen
- Topix Addict
- Posts: 2097
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:13 am
- Experience: Level 4 Explorer
- Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
Re: Trip Report: A Cold, Quiet Merced Circle
"Kitchen creek" for my first camp. About 8 miles in, across from Bunnell Point. It's still summer-like, but my next camp will be perched on a flat rock, surrounded by snowfields.
First time at Merced Lake, and I was welcomed by a giant flock of Mallards and Scaups. They rose in a dark mass, and flew to a foamy landing on the far side.
Nice meadows a couple miles below Vogelsang, but I sunk one snow-shoed foot through the snow and into the creek! It wasn't exactly a Jack London-- "to Build a Fire" situation, but bloody cold. I spent a nice hour in the dry grass here drying off and warming up.
Above Vogelsang, the view opens to the north, Mt. Conness upper left.
The blue line marks my route up Fletcher Peak. After the initial steep slope there was an easy terrace, and then the series of pinnacles on the summit ridge, seen in the image below.
The elevation of Fletcher Peak is ~11,100,' and it's an interesting summit with fun scrambling and a great precipice on the north side.
Mt. Conness and White Mountain seen through the window, and that must be Mt. Dana to the right.
Evelyn Lake looks like a nice ski touring destination. It is perched 300' above Tuolumne Pass, and 7 miles from the ski hut.
View west from the highest point on Fletcher's summit ridge, with Half Dome in the distance.
The nice drop-off to the north. Frozen Townsley Lake below.
Looking east from Vogelsang Pass, with Gallison Lake, Simmons Peak above.
First time at Merced Lake, and I was welcomed by a giant flock of Mallards and Scaups. They rose in a dark mass, and flew to a foamy landing on the far side.
Nice meadows a couple miles below Vogelsang, but I sunk one snow-shoed foot through the snow and into the creek! It wasn't exactly a Jack London-- "to Build a Fire" situation, but bloody cold. I spent a nice hour in the dry grass here drying off and warming up.
Above Vogelsang, the view opens to the north, Mt. Conness upper left.
The blue line marks my route up Fletcher Peak. After the initial steep slope there was an easy terrace, and then the series of pinnacles on the summit ridge, seen in the image below.
The elevation of Fletcher Peak is ~11,100,' and it's an interesting summit with fun scrambling and a great precipice on the north side.
Mt. Conness and White Mountain seen through the window, and that must be Mt. Dana to the right.
Evelyn Lake looks like a nice ski touring destination. It is perched 300' above Tuolumne Pass, and 7 miles from the ski hut.
View west from the highest point on Fletcher's summit ridge, with Half Dome in the distance.
The nice drop-off to the north. Frozen Townsley Lake below.
Looking east from Vogelsang Pass, with Gallison Lake, Simmons Peak above.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by Harlen on Tue Aug 31, 2021 11:41 am, edited 3 times in total.
Properly trained, a man can be dog’s best friend.
-
Harlen
- Topix Addict
- Posts: 2097
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:13 am
- Experience: Level 4 Explorer
- Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
Re: Trip Report: A Cold, Quiet Merced Circle
Some of the many bear tracks I followed.
This is actually a Chicaree /Douglas squirrel pathway. In places, they will break a trail, and continue to use only the broken-in area, just like we would.
This year's bear cub paw prints, I reckon.
I chose to descend back to the ranger cabin above Merced Lake, and use the Merced River trail instead of the higher, snowier trail.
View west with Merced Lake and Half Dome.
Washburn Lake. I went back down into summer for a few miles, then up into winter again in the Clark Range.
The second high country part of this Merced Circle was the crossing of the Clark Range. I somehow managed (again!) to cross a range at the wrong pass, and this time threw in a mistaken mountain as well. After passing Washburn Lake I made a spontaneous decision to veer up into the Red Peak Fork drainage as a scenic shortcut. The valley of Red Peak Fork aimed right at a very dramatic red rock peak, which I just Jackassumed must be Red Peak. I knew the pass was below and just south of the peak, and I would be intersecting the trail south of Red Devil Lake, so route finding seemed straightforward. On my second day in the basin I found Red Devil Lake, and met the trail to Red Peak Pass, but it was deep in drifted snow; so I happily decided to choose my own path to the obvious pass, south of the obvious (?) Red Peak. The place I deviated from the trail is exactly where it began to head south into the deeper snow, yet had I continued along it, I would have soon figured out my error. But it was late in the day, and I really wanted to climb "Red Peak" and still make it down to Lower Ottoway Lake to camp, so I was racing along. I got to my pass at 4 PM, and still had a tricky climb to the summit, but more concerning was the strange view over the ridge directly down into Gray Peak Fork, flowing right back toward Merced Lake. Oh no. So I took out the map and finally took a close look at it, and the ground around me. Obviously off route, no trail to be found, and now the real Red Peak became apparent, as it was 300 feet higher than my spur peak, and 1 mile to the south. Luckily, I could see a route off the ridge without going back down. I followed my spur back to the real divide, and dropped down into Red Creek, which flows northwest into Illilouette Creek. I was soon down past the big frozen lake, and another long mile put me into the forest at 9600 for a fire camp. The only difficulty was a bit of stumbling in the dark, but far worse was the realization that I had been careless again. I honestly cannot remember this sort of gross error in past trips, and I've done it twice this year! What is it about turning 60? Everything worked out in the end, but I have to get my mountain act together.
Frozen Red Devil Lake.
The two "Red Peaks," and I chose the right one, which was wrong!
The left peak is much redder, and I should have known it was higher elevation too, but notice how unlikely the south ridge is to hold a pass.
My "Red Peak" is actually a spur peak that comes off the Clark Range divide to the north.
On the way up, the view of mountains to the east got better and better. Mt Lyell far left, and the Ritter Range through the Minarets far right.
This is actually a Chicaree /Douglas squirrel pathway. In places, they will break a trail, and continue to use only the broken-in area, just like we would.
This year's bear cub paw prints, I reckon.
I chose to descend back to the ranger cabin above Merced Lake, and use the Merced River trail instead of the higher, snowier trail.
View west with Merced Lake and Half Dome.
Washburn Lake. I went back down into summer for a few miles, then up into winter again in the Clark Range.
The second high country part of this Merced Circle was the crossing of the Clark Range. I somehow managed (again!) to cross a range at the wrong pass, and this time threw in a mistaken mountain as well. After passing Washburn Lake I made a spontaneous decision to veer up into the Red Peak Fork drainage as a scenic shortcut. The valley of Red Peak Fork aimed right at a very dramatic red rock peak, which I just Jackassumed must be Red Peak. I knew the pass was below and just south of the peak, and I would be intersecting the trail south of Red Devil Lake, so route finding seemed straightforward. On my second day in the basin I found Red Devil Lake, and met the trail to Red Peak Pass, but it was deep in drifted snow; so I happily decided to choose my own path to the obvious pass, south of the obvious (?) Red Peak. The place I deviated from the trail is exactly where it began to head south into the deeper snow, yet had I continued along it, I would have soon figured out my error. But it was late in the day, and I really wanted to climb "Red Peak" and still make it down to Lower Ottoway Lake to camp, so I was racing along. I got to my pass at 4 PM, and still had a tricky climb to the summit, but more concerning was the strange view over the ridge directly down into Gray Peak Fork, flowing right back toward Merced Lake. Oh no. So I took out the map and finally took a close look at it, and the ground around me. Obviously off route, no trail to be found, and now the real Red Peak became apparent, as it was 300 feet higher than my spur peak, and 1 mile to the south. Luckily, I could see a route off the ridge without going back down. I followed my spur back to the real divide, and dropped down into Red Creek, which flows northwest into Illilouette Creek. I was soon down past the big frozen lake, and another long mile put me into the forest at 9600 for a fire camp. The only difficulty was a bit of stumbling in the dark, but far worse was the realization that I had been careless again. I honestly cannot remember this sort of gross error in past trips, and I've done it twice this year! What is it about turning 60? Everything worked out in the end, but I have to get my mountain act together.
Frozen Red Devil Lake.
The two "Red Peaks," and I chose the right one, which was wrong!
The left peak is much redder, and I should have known it was higher elevation too, but notice how unlikely the south ridge is to hold a pass.
My "Red Peak" is actually a spur peak that comes off the Clark Range divide to the north.
On the way up, the view of mountains to the east got better and better. Mt Lyell far left, and the Ritter Range through the Minarets far right.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by Harlen on Thu Dec 17, 2020 2:10 am, edited 4 times in total.
Properly trained, a man can be dog’s best friend.
-
Harlen
- Topix Addict
- Posts: 2097
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:13 am
- Experience: Level 4 Explorer
- Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
Re: Trip Report: A Cold, Quiet Merced Circle
It was really beautiful on the ridge, though gathering darkness fast.
I gave up the idea of climbing my Red Peak, and weighed my many options. I could have carried on down Gray Peak Fork, and on to Merced Lake and out that easy way, but that would have felt like a real defeat. So would scurrying back down the way I had come, to camp, and then try again in the morning. I could see the real Red Peak Pass with my binoculars, and I didn't like the deep snowy north slope it was on. So I checked the map, and found 2 ways down into the valley of Red Creek, which would lead in the right direction, and soon join Illilouette Creek. The final option was to traverse across the troublesome looking northwest slope of Red Peak, and try to descend the correct side of the ridge to reach the Ottoway Lakes. But the traverse looked awful, and the descent was uncertain, and I'd be there in the dark- see the photo below where I have marked that last possibility. I chose to drop into Red Creek.
The circle marks the crossing area of the north west ridge of Red Peak, and the dotted line the route I might have tried to reach there.
The valley below the ridge was clearly Gray Creek, and it was flowing north-- a nice view in the wrong direction. Find Cathedral Peak; and Matthes Crest; the many Echo Peaks; Cockscomb; and on and on.
The best way into Red Creek basin was to climb farther up the spur.
The south face of Mt. Clark magically appeared.
This is the Red Creek basin I descended into via a loose but dry talus slope.
It was dark, and I was pretty exhausted, so I made camp at the first levelish spot, with plenty of wood for a fire and snow for water. This is the next morning huddled around the stove melting chunks of semi-clean snow.
Less than 2 miles up from my camp is scenic Grayling Lake, where you can scrap down to the trail on Illilouette Creek through the lovely Whitethorn ceanothus... serves me right.
Red fir forest recovering from fire. Mount Starr King in the distance.
Burned tree showing inner beauty.
I gave up the idea of climbing my Red Peak, and weighed my many options. I could have carried on down Gray Peak Fork, and on to Merced Lake and out that easy way, but that would have felt like a real defeat. So would scurrying back down the way I had come, to camp, and then try again in the morning. I could see the real Red Peak Pass with my binoculars, and I didn't like the deep snowy north slope it was on. So I checked the map, and found 2 ways down into the valley of Red Creek, which would lead in the right direction, and soon join Illilouette Creek. The final option was to traverse across the troublesome looking northwest slope of Red Peak, and try to descend the correct side of the ridge to reach the Ottoway Lakes. But the traverse looked awful, and the descent was uncertain, and I'd be there in the dark- see the photo below where I have marked that last possibility. I chose to drop into Red Creek.
The circle marks the crossing area of the north west ridge of Red Peak, and the dotted line the route I might have tried to reach there.
The valley below the ridge was clearly Gray Creek, and it was flowing north-- a nice view in the wrong direction. Find Cathedral Peak; and Matthes Crest; the many Echo Peaks; Cockscomb; and on and on.
The best way into Red Creek basin was to climb farther up the spur.
The south face of Mt. Clark magically appeared.
This is the Red Creek basin I descended into via a loose but dry talus slope.
It was dark, and I was pretty exhausted, so I made camp at the first levelish spot, with plenty of wood for a fire and snow for water. This is the next morning huddled around the stove melting chunks of semi-clean snow.
Less than 2 miles up from my camp is scenic Grayling Lake, where you can scrap down to the trail on Illilouette Creek through the lovely Whitethorn ceanothus... serves me right.
Red fir forest recovering from fire. Mount Starr King in the distance.
Burned tree showing inner beauty.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by Harlen on Wed Dec 16, 2020 10:26 am, edited 5 times in total.
Properly trained, a man can be dog’s best friend.
-
Harlen
- Topix Addict
- Posts: 2097
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:13 am
- Experience: Level 4 Explorer
- Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
Re: Trip Report: A Cold, Quiet Merced Circle
I was so impressed by Mt Starr King and the other domes I decided to stay another night there. I had to climb nearly to the top of the golden dome to escape the trees and get this view.
Sunset was very fine.
Sunrise view from the tent window.
Back in familiar country, full circle.
Very little snow in The Valley.
Above I made mention of some of the risks involved in solo snowy travels, but there is a positive aspect to this as well. The heightened focus one practices due to the risk-- watching for storms; in camp selection; and constant micro-route finding (*if not macro), lends a satisfying quiet intensity to the trip. It's the same feeling experienced by so many of us here who enjoy off-trail traveling, and backpacking into remote areas. The winter season just adds a few more elements to it-- the cold and the solitude. I really enjoyed the time alone, and seeing new country, but those were some really long nights
Sunset was very fine.
Sunrise view from the tent window.
Back in familiar country, full circle.
Very little snow in The Valley.
Above I made mention of some of the risks involved in solo snowy travels, but there is a positive aspect to this as well. The heightened focus one practices due to the risk-- watching for storms; in camp selection; and constant micro-route finding (*if not macro), lends a satisfying quiet intensity to the trip. It's the same feeling experienced by so many of us here who enjoy off-trail traveling, and backpacking into remote areas. The winter season just adds a few more elements to it-- the cold and the solitude. I really enjoyed the time alone, and seeing new country, but those were some really long nights
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by Harlen on Sun Mar 14, 2021 7:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Properly trained, a man can be dog’s best friend.
-
Jimr
- Forums Moderator
- Posts: 2176
- Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2009 2:14 pm
- Experience: Level 4 Explorer
- Location: Torrance
Re: Trip Report: A Cold, Quiet Merced Circle
Turning 60 can lead to a bit of jackassery in one's life.
If you don't know where you're going, then any path will get you there.
-
Harlen
- Topix Addict
- Posts: 2097
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:13 am
- Experience: Level 4 Explorer
- Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
Re: Trip Report: A Cold, Quiet Merced Circle
Jimr Writes:
Thanks Jim, that's a big relief. I thought there was something wrong with me.Turning 60 can lead to a bit of jackassery in one's life.
Properly trained, a man can be dog’s best friend.
-
brandoge
- Topix Novice
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Mon Apr 20, 2020 2:26 pm
- Experience: Level 2 Backpacker
Re: Trip Report: A Cold, Quiet Merced Circle
Thanks for sharing the trip report and all of the beautiful pictures! Even with all of the nice landscape shots you posted, I really like the picture of the burned twisted tree.
-
CAMERONM
- Topix Expert
- Posts: 475
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 10:04 am
- Experience: Level 4 Explorer
- Location: Los Angeles
- Contact:
Re: Trip Report: A Cold, Quiet Merced Circle
Nice report! It may embolden me enough to get out next week. Maybe.
Did you really need the white gas, or could you have gotten by with a large canister? Was water that hard to obtain?
I think the jackassery episode chalked up to an enthusiastic devil-may-care headlong jump into the woods is OK, perhaps even commendable. But making decisions on high passes about summit assaults at 4 PM in winter, and by the way, with no headlamp, begs coining a new term with no commendation intended.
"Ill-advissery?"
Did you really need the white gas, or could you have gotten by with a large canister? Was water that hard to obtain?
I think the jackassery episode chalked up to an enthusiastic devil-may-care headlong jump into the woods is OK, perhaps even commendable. But making decisions on high passes about summit assaults at 4 PM in winter, and by the way, with no headlamp, begs coining a new term with no commendation intended.
"Ill-advissery?"
-
wildhiker
- Topix Fanatic
- Posts: 1112
- Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2011 4:44 pm
- Experience: Level 4 Explorer
- Location: Palo Alto, CA
- Contact:
Re: Trip Report: A Cold, Quiet Merced Circle
Thanks for posting a nice report on an unusual adventure!
-Phil
-Phil
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 57 guests