1993 Wind River Indian Reservation Adventure

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CAMERONM
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Re: 1993 Wind River Indian Reservation Adventure

Post by CAMERONM »

Nice when you can share your passion with your child.
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robertseeburger
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Re: 1993 Wind River Indian Reservation Adventure

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Wow.. I finally read this report.. What an epic trip.
Reading your book, I wondered how many people have gone down the canyon below Alpine Lake.. probably few before the fire, and none now!
And , while I was thinking about this, reading your report, I think it is off the to do list!

I have done perhaps a 1/3 of your trip now. A very beautiful area, and it doesnt seem to get too many people other than those who get to Sonnicant Lake. I remember in my TR a few years ago complaining about downed logs between Movo Lake and Wykee Lake as well. And the trail on the map isn't much of a trail.. sounds like it wasn't much of a trail back then. Exhausting day, going from Movo to Sonnicant..just a few miles.
Looks like on your trip you had several exhausting days just going a few miles....

On long trips and big packs.. I have never carried 70 pounds, but I have carried 60 before. Always a slog the first day. Or two.. or three.
I still like the long trips.. somehow the feeling you have with a long trip of freedom after the first couple of days is one of the best parts of the backpacking experience to me. I am still carrying 50+ pounds for a 12-14 day trip. And I struggle for the first couple of days.
It seems very few people do these long trips with heavy packs any more. I choose to optimize around "what I do when the pack is off" (fishing, hiking, climbing etc) rather than optimizing the weight with the pack on. I often get comments to the effect "you are stupid". Se la vi.

I really enjoyed reading the report..
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Re: 1993 Wind River Indian Reservation Adventure

Post by Wandering Daisy »

The trailheads are not that easy to get to in the Wind Rivers and the core of the range takes a day or more to get into, so if willing to put up with a heavy pack for the first few days, you can avoid all the logistical problems. Anyone who has driven those horrible Reservation roads does not want to do that multiple times! Of course, with enough money, you can have a lighter pack and be resupplied by outfitters- a good solution to larger groups where you can split the cost. But for solo backpackers, rather expensive. When I do long trips, I still go back to my external frame Kelty pack, since it carries large loads easier.

The first trip I did in the Sierra when I moved here was a 14-day route. At that time I did not realize that it was much easier to split these long trips into shorter parts given the ease of access in the Sierra. Yet, I have done several 12-day trips simply because, like you, I enjoy being out continuously. It really gives you a different "feel".

Another "trick" for longer routes is to do more on-trail walking at the beginning when packs are heavy. My husband and I did a very long counter-clockwise loop from Green River Lakes years ago, basically walking the CDT to the southernmost part of the trip, and then returned on the more difficult off-trail part east of the divide. We met a couple struggling on the same route clockwise, who said they had not thought of simply reversing the route to make it easier.
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rlown
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Re: 1993 Wind River Indian Reservation Adventure

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WD, Why have you not moved closer to the Winds?
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: 1993 Wind River Indian Reservation Adventure

Post by Wandering Daisy »

I lived in Wyoming for 20 years. I was tired of the long hard winters and "redneck" attitudes, as well as unable to get descent work. I have no problem driving back to Wyoming in the summer to backpack. And I also love the Sierra and the coast. Best of all worlds.
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Re: 1993 Wind River Indian Reservation Adventure

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WD, I spend a lot of times looking at routes and determine which way to go...like clockwise or counterclockwise based upon optimizing
those first few days with a heavy pack. I like to have a layover day no later than the 3rd day also..After the third day, it seems no matter how heavy the pack, or how old I have gotten...things seem to go ok. Agree that the sierras are a lot easier to do shorter trips than the winds..
But for me in the winds.. given I dont drive there and stay like you..I like the trips to be longer as well just to cover the "overhead" of the 1000 mile drive each way. I won't go unless it is at least 8 days! Better 10 or 12. I haven't gotten my partners up to 14 ...yet!
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Re: 1993 Wind River Indian Reservation Adventure

Post by Wandering Daisy »

One-day turn-around resupply by outfitter runs about $500-$600. That usually means about 12-15 miles from the trailhead. So with four people, the cost is about $125-$150 per person, which is not bad. A pack horse carries about 100 pounds, plenty capacity to resupply four people for 10 days. If you base-camp at the resupply for 1-2 days, you could start with an 8 day trip, resupply and rest 2 days, continue 10 days, for a 20 day total trip. Maybe you could convince all your buddies to go on one big trip!
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dougieb
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Re: 1993 Wind River Indian Reservation Adventure

Post by dougieb »

What a fantastic trip and report. Thank you so much for sharing. I did two trips in the winds, 2016 and 2017 I think, hiking most of the length of the range. It is a very special place. I don't know how to compare it to the Sierra. They both shared some similarities but many differences as well. Maybe part of the difference is just knowing that I was out there in Wyoming, so far from home, it made it feel a different kind of wild.

Boy did I love the East fork valley and everything between there and photo pass. Just spectacular. I remember reading parts of your book and really wanting to see more of the east side of the range. I really want to see Mt Hooker and Roberts Lake. Something about those flat tops and vertical cliffs is just incredible. I'll have to go back some day. I have heard that grizzlies have increased but not much data to point to. WD have you heard any updates on their status? Confirmed sightings and that sort of thing?
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Re: 1993 Wind River Indian Reservation Adventure

Post by Wandering Daisy »

The best thing to do is to contact the FS before your trip. (Pinedale office, Bridger NF; Lander office southern Shoshone, Dubois Shoshone NF for northeast; and Federal Fish and Wildlife, Lander, for Reservation lands). They post bear activity on trailhead bulletin boards and sometimes on their web-sites, although Shoshone NF websites are lacking in updates. They track all bear activity, black bear and grizzly reported by recent backpackers. Occasionally they will actually close a trailhead. The USF&W manage wildlife and fishing on the reservation at the request of the tribes so have better information. Individual outfitters also have a good idea of the bear problems; most of them pass on data to the FS.

Grizzlies are gradually migrating south and getting more abundant, but still WAY below the level in Montana or Canadian Rockies. Black bears are hunted and not sure, but, grizzlies may be as well if they get off the endangered list. But overall hunting of all game seems to keep animals more afraid of humans. Not nearly the problem as in the Sierra. I ALWAYS carry bear spray in the Wind Rivers. I have encounters with aggressive moose but not bears. Also had a coyote (maybe wolf or coyote-wolf cross?) circle me once as I sat on a rock with bear spray in hand. Lots more wildlife in general than the Sierra- elk, deer, mountain sheep, badger, porcupine, pika, weasels. But I have noticed a significant reduction of elk since grizzlies and wolves.
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regone
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Re: 1993 Wind River Indian Reservation Adventure

Post by regone »

Incredible report.. Maybe the best one I've ever read and beautiful film photos. A true adventure getting out. I still don't how you carried 21 days of food. 70 pound packs packs over the passes and into the swamps of Alpine. Remarkable.
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