South Central Wind River7/23-29

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Wandering Daisy
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South Central Wind River7/23-29

Post by Wandering Daisy »

South-Central Wind River Loop
7/23 – 7/29 2018

New panoramas added on Oct 29: see several posts down

The second loop trip would pick up Black Joe Lake, which I missed on the first leg and then continue north to the upper East Fork, where I would return to Big Sandy TH instead of going over a pass to exit to Scab Creek. Since the third leg would go in Scab Creek, I could pick up what I missed on that trip. The second leg of the thru-route was loosely planned with several alternate route choices each day. It was agonizing to choose since each variation was spectacular.

If I had only one trip to do in the Wind Rivers, the south-central part would be my choice, although it is neither the most rugged or most remote part of the mountains There is good fishing as well as excellent scenery with travel through many types of alpine ecosystems. Travel is fairly easy, much being on good trails.

Day 1: Big Sandy TH to Black Joe Lake inlet, with day hike to upper lakes. (10.8 miles, +2040 feet)

Luck was with me, since it rained the two days off in Lander, with good weather returning for my trip! I left Lander at dawn and drove to Big Sandy Trailhead; it took three hours. The dirt Lander Cut-off Road was slick from rain and the road to Big Sandy in terrible shape. I am surprised my car even ran as loaded with mud as it was. The trailhead was full of cars but I lucked out with a spot right next to the trailhead.

I was walking by 10AM through flower-filled meadows along the beautiful Big Sandy River. The trail was also full of people, a few CDT hikers coming out for resupply. After five miles I left Big Sandy Lake and headed up the trail to Black Joe Lake and was alone. The trail ends at the outlet of the lake; to reach the inlet of this long lake, you have to go up over a steep rocky buttress and then traverse the shoreline. This time I ascended a different gully than I had before and it turned out to be a good route.
8626_Camp1.jpg
I set up above the small lake above Black Joe Lake, in a flower-filled meadow. (There are so many meadows in the Wind Rivers that campsite choices usually are on grass. I do not think I could have even found a site off vegetation.) I was far above the lake with a side stream as a water source. After setting up I walked up the valley hoping to get to a high lake just below Surveyor’s Notch on Wind River Peak. Unfortunately, the weather deteriorated so I only made it to a small lake 600 feet below the higher lake. I returned to my camp and fished for an hour. Black Joe Lake itself was full of white-caps so I tried the upper lake, with no luck.
8615_Surveyor's Notch.jpg
8617_Columbine.jpg
8629_Upper BlackJoe L.jpg
8633_BlackJoePass.jpg
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Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Mon Oct 29, 2018 8:54 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: South Central Wind River7/23-29

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Day 2: Black Joe Lake inlet to Bear Lake. (9.8 miles, +2465 feet)

My campsite remained in deep shadows as I packed up. Returning along the shoreline of Black Joe Lake fish were now rising. Morning reflections were stunning.
8640_BlackJoe_AMReflection_left.jpg
8642_BlackJoe_AMReflection_right.jpg
I found another new route down off the buttress at the outlet. Soon I was back at Big Sandy Lake and started up the Jackass Trail to Cirque of the Towers. Although it is the main trail to this very popular climbing area, it is difficult to follow due to too many rogue cairns and everyone taking different routes. I met many confused hikers along the way. Cirque of the Towers was stunning as ever and I stopped to take photos and soak in the scenery.
8655_JackassTr_flowers.jpg
8656_CirqueOfT_from JackassPass.jpg
8668_LonesomeLk.jpg

I was now torn between going over Texas and Illinois Passes to the South Fork of the Little Wind River, or going over Lizard Head Plateau on the trail. I really wanted to camp at South Fork Lakes, so I opted for the latter. My plan was to camp 2 miles downstream at Lizard Head Meadows, a good fishing area with a great long-distance view of the Cirque. When I arrived, there were not only black flies and mosquitoes but huge, nasty horse flies as well.
8678_LizardHead_M.jpg

Bear Lakes, about an hour up the Lizard Head Trail and half a mile off the main trail, supposedly also had fish. I continued on and found a nice campsite at the second Bear Lake and fished for an hour with no luck. I never saw a rise. Disappointing, but it still was a stunningly scenic campsite right under Lizard Head Peak and I had plenty of time to bathe and wash clothes. Mosquitoes were not bad at all since a nice breeze was blowing.

8694_BearLk_from camp.jpg
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Re: South Central Wind River7/23-29

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Day 3: Bear Lakes to South Fork Lakes (5.8 miles, +1460 feet)


Since I camped at Bear Lakes, it would be a shorter day to reach South Fork Lakes. I returned to the Lizard Head Trail, which offers absolutely stunning views its entire length. I stopped often to photograph. Wildflowers were at their peak as there were still plenty of small snow-melt trickles on the Plateau.
8711_BearLks_ALT.jpg
8718_Upper SFLk.jpg
As I dropped off-trail to South Fork Lakes I noticed that someone had put up a few cairns on the route. The gully is steep but there were plenty of game trails to follow. The harder part was making my way through timber and brush at the lower elevations. As I neared the lower lake rain started and I quickly set up in an established site near the shore in a clump of trees. I napped during the rain which soon stopped.
8725_fish.jpg
Then I went to the outlet to fish, quickly catching two fat, 12-inch Cutthroat trout. I returned to camp and strung the fish in the water. Then I hiked up to the upper lake to photograph in the afternoon light. Returning, I cleaned the fish and had a fine fish dinner. Overall it was a very rewarding day. I did not see a single person all day.
8730_Upper_SFLk.jpg

Day 4: South Fork Lakes to Baptiste Lake (8.2 miles, +1460 feet)


I had my eye on reaching Baptiste Lake, where years ago my husband and I had great fishing. But first I wanted to go to Washakie Lake, just in case I did not go past it on my return. The off-trail route around the base of Payson Peak was tricky and difficult. I waded across the outlet of the lower South Fork Lake and proceeded to absolutely miss the route, having to backtrack several times. As many times as I had done this route, you would think I would know how to do it by now. I certainly made more work of it than necessary.
8740_Lower SFLk.jpg
8743_Payson Pk.jpg
8755_Washakie Lk.jpg

Now, I had many choices of routes to reach Baptiste Lake; via Macon Lake Pass and down to a scenic valley of lakes without fish; via Spearpoint Pass to a bench of lakes with fish and Grave Lake; or on the Washakie Trail to the South Fork and the Bears Ears Trail to Grave Lake. Had I planned to camp at Grave Lake I would have taken the second option and fished Spearpoint Lake. Instead I seemed to only focus on getting to Baptiste Lake, so I took the trail route.
8772_GraveLk.jpg
As I reached Grave Lake the wind was howling and this large lake was full of white-caps. Not great for fly fishing! I continued to Baptiste Lake. I had forgotten how lush and beautiful the bench below Baptiste Lake was. This bench also offers some really fine campsites with the option of day-hiking to Baptiste Lake to fish.
8782_Baptiste Lk.jpg

I was exhausted when I arrived at the west arm of Baptiste Lake where there are several established campsites in timber, a good feature to have since it was so blustery. Attempts at fishing were a failure. It was hard to get my line out in the wind and the nice sized fish I saw simply looked at my fly and rejected it. The fish simply were not feeding this day. Oh well, the stunning scenery made up for it. Unfortunately, in my obsession to reach Baptiste Lake, the long miles had taken their toll on my feet without me noticing it until I went into the tent and my feet ached all night.
8801_Baptiste_Camp.jpg
8794_MtHooker.jpg
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Re: South Central Wind River7/23-29

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Day 5: Baptiste Lake to East Fork Lakes (9.0 miles, +1345 feet)

I awoke to sore feet and hobbled back to the Bears Ears Trail.
8813_Baptiste Bench.jpg
Here I had several choices of routes to return to Big Sandy TH. I could have gone over Macon Lake pass and then Illinois Pass to Shadow Lake to intersect the Fremont Trail. This route would be hard on my feet, so I opted instead to wade across the creek and head up to Hailey Pass. There were snow patches that thankfully I could avoid. The trail was as poor as I had remembered- very steep, loose scree and difficult to find at times. This trail is not maintained and only remains as a result of use. I then dropped to Mae Lake, taking the all-trail but longer route to the outlet. One can cut off some mileage by a short-cut to the inlet. But I did not regret my choice since the wildflower display was staggering. I had never seen such dense and healthy wildflowers. There were several others along the popular trail to Pyramid Lake.
8833_Pyramid LkTr.jpg
I left the trail at the upper end of the lake and headed over a small pass into the upper East Fork. Indecisive, I first dropped to the lower lake an then decided to go to the upper lake, then flip-flopping back to the lower lake where there would be better fishing. After much ado, I found a nice grassy bench above the lake and setup. The fishing was fun in this lake chock-full of smaller brook trout. As much as I like catching larger fish, I actually find it more fun to catch tons of little ones and they are easier to cook. The down-side is that now I had to clean six fish for dinner! Ugh!
8837_East Fork.jpg
8843_East FOrk Cammp.jpg
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Re: South Central Wind River7/23-29

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Day 6; East Fork Lakes to Donald Lake (8.7 miles, +800 feet)

This day was mostly downhill, but my feet were really sore. I awoke to a storm coming in. Sunrise was beautiful but it soon clouded over. I put on my rain clothes and walk down the beautiful East Fork getting as far as I could before my feet protested. I knew getting out to the trailhead was not in the cards, but there are multiple camping spots along the way. Shortly I spotted a group camped at the outlet of the same lake I left. I did not meet any other people on the remaining three miles to the Fremont Trail. I had to wade across several streams along the way. The gray dismal day precluded taking many photos.
8844_East Fork Camp.jpg
IMG_8858_60%.jpg
Once on the Fremont Trail (part of the CDT) I ran into several groups. It became downright crowded! I had a chat with a local gal who was in with her horses. She was a librarian at the Pinedale Library and told me that many CDT hikers had stopped at the library to get internet connections and information. I was tempted to go up to Shadow Lake to camp but decided as scenic as it was, the next day would be too much for my sore feet. If I did not have a set-in-stone deadline to start my next trip (due to meeting a friend who was going with me) I would have gone up to Shadow Lake and simply spent an extra day coming out.

When I reached Dads Lake the rain had stopped. It was early enough to not want to stop, but late enough not to make it all the way out to the trailhead. I decided to go up to Donald Lake because I had never been there. It turned out a bit farther than I expected! There were several established campsites and I set up on the site mid-shore adjacent to an amazing sandy beach, but fishing was a bust. I never saw a rise and doubt there are even fish in the lake. Given all the elk tracks, I suspect this location is used primarily during hunting season by horsemen. The lake sat in a small cirque surrounded by a few nice peaks. I probably would not go back again, but am glad I saw it once.


Day 7: Donald Lake to Big Sandy Trailhead (7.6 miles, +325 feet)

This was another nearly all-downhill day. Once back on the Fremont Trail I ran into several people. It was a quick walk out, thankfully on a good flat trail that did not stress my ankles. Although it would be more efficient to remain on the west side, I returned to Lander to visit friends, wash up and pack for the next trip. I picked up a CDT hiker on South Pass and had an interesting conversation with him. He had just hiked across the Red Desert. This is one section of the CDT that I certainly would never want to do. Luckily, he said the rain had kept the temperatures down.
Again I had lucked out with inclement weather occurring mostly during my days off. So far, the Wind Rivers had been spared the smoky skies. It looked like that would change on my next trip as the haze had finally worked its way eastward.
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Re: South Central Wind River7/23-29

Post by robertseeburger »

Great report ..great pics.. I have seen several pictures of Baptiste Lake and got to get there some day. Plus the creek below. But yours make it even better.
I am off today for my annal venture in the winds.. will report myself in a couple of weeks.
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Re: South Central Wind River7/23-29

Post by Harlen »

Annual trips to the Winds? You and Daisy are too lucky!! WD, how are the routes on that crazy thick pillar of peak above Baptiste Lake? You must have climbed it. Great Trip Reports this summer Daisy; congratulations for pulling off such an epic. The Harlens.
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Re: South Central Wind River7/23-29

Post by Tom_H »

So beautiful. Thanks for the TR.
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Re: South Central Wind River7/23-29

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Harlen- The north face of Mt. Hooker was first climbed (aid route) by Royal Robbins a long time ago. As good as it looks the rock on it is not reported to be that great. I have only walked up the ridge connecting to Hailey Pass - class 2 at most. When I was there this summer I heard people climbing, but never spotted them.

The more known climbing area is the Cirque of the Towers where I have done more climbing. The Cirque has excellent, clean rock. Pingora Peak, below, has many great routes. In fact, I climbed it in 2002 with RJ Secor. We also climbed Wolfshead, which is one of the "50 Classic Routes of North America". Not sure if you are familiar with that old book.

8663_Lonesome Lk.jpg
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Re: South Central Wind River7/23-29

Post by Wandering Daisy »

These two photos show the steepness of Mt. Hooker. The first is taken from the bench just below Baptiste Lake and the second from where the Bears Ears Trail crosses Baptiste Lake. The class 2 route is along the left skyline ridge on the first photo.
8808_Mt Hooker.jpg
8815_Mt Hooker from creek crossing.jpg
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