We spent the day before our second trip began doing laundry, eating fresh food, buying cheese and shoving a 10-day supply of food into a couple of Ursacks and a BV500 bear canister.
This trip essentially follows Route #30 in the book Beyond Trails. The trip report for Wind River 1 can be found at the following link.
http://highsierratopix.com/community/vi ... =8&t=21284
Day 1, August 17, 2020 – Elkhart Trailhead to Seneca Lake
On August 17, we drove from Pinedale to the Elkhart Trailhead. The lot was much less crowded than the Big Sandy lot had been. The day was going to be hot, with a high of 83 degrees. That’s not hot for North Carolina weather, but it seemed pretty hot for Wyoming weather. There were lots of hikers and horse riders coming and going. We stopped at Photographers Point to appreciate the view. The last three miles of the day were up and down, but mostly up. And it was hot. Near Seneca Lake, a llama packing group walked by.
We camped at a well-used site on the north side of Seneca Lake near the Lost Lake trail junction. Lots of small lakes were scattered about. We were pretty beat between the up and down of the trail and the heat. Dinner was Chicken Marbella. After dinner, we watched as a man at a neighboring campsite hang a bear bag from a narrow conifer. We reminisced about the bear pinatas that we had hung and our frustration with finding a good bear hang tree in the years before we started using Ursacks and bear canisters.
View from Seneca Lake Campsite
Campsite at Seneca Lake
Day 2, August 18, 2020 – Seneca Lake to Lake 10,813
After a breakfast of hot Multigrain Cereal with milk, nuts and fruit, we set off. We hiked past Island Lake and toward Indian Basin. We stopped to talk with a woman and man who were hiking with two large dogs. While we were stopped, a rescue helicopter flew into Titcomb Basin and back out again. We arrived at Lake 10,813 in early afternoon. We found a soft, grassy site with an excellent view of Elephant Head. Storms brewed over Jackson and Fremont peaks, but there were just a few sprinkles of rain. Dinner was Coconut Chicken Curry.
This was the first time that we couldn’t find suitable trees for securing our Ursacks. We tied them to large blocks of talus. During the night we heard a large rock fall from across the lake that seemed to go on for several minutes. We found that the sound of rocks falling would wake us from a deep sleep and make our hearts beat faster.
Island Lake
Fremont Peak
TR: Wind River 2 - Elkhart Loop, Aug. 17-26, 2020
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arkheel
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TR: Wind River 2 - Elkhart Loop, Aug. 17-26, 2020
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Last edited by arkheel on Sat Feb 20, 2021 6:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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arkheel
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Re: TR: Wind River 2 - Elkhart Loop, Aug. 17-26, 2020
Day 3, August 19, 2020 – Day Hike to Titcomb Basin
Beyond Trails shows a cross country route over to Titcomb Basin, and we wanted to check it out. After Oatmeal with milk, nuts and fruit, we started our day hike. Light rain showers passed through. The route turned out to be great fun and was a bit of a shortcut to Titcomb Basin. We had to cross talus, but we had learned by then that old talus is good talus and if there was grass growing among the talus, so much the better. Titcomb Basin was impressive! Lots of other people were day hiking there too. The geologist parts of our brains tried imagining the size of the glacier that was there long ago. We did some snacking and then strolled back to Lake 10,813 via the cross-country route. We were back at our campsite by 2 p.m. After napping, we watched the clouds. Dinner was Beans, Rice and Cheese with spiced olive oil. The evening was nice with a light breeze. We were asleep a little after sunset.
Titcomb Basin
Elephant Head
Day 4, August 20, 2020 – Day Hike to Indian Pass
After a breakfast of Cheesy Potatoes, we started our day hike to Indian Pass via Indian Basin Lake. We began to smell wood smoke and the view became hazy. Someone told us that the smoke was from far away, maybe from California. The trail to Indian Pass was nicely graded but wet in spots. We passed wildflowers and bright, green patches of moss. Nearing the top of the pass, we noticed large, dark minerals that looked like they might be from a dark rock called gabbro. The Harrower glacier and the view from Indian Pass looked desolate and gray through the smoky air. At the top of the pass, we met a young couple from Wisconsin who had recently thru hiked the Appalachian Trail. One of them had lost their job due to the pandemic.
We hiked back towards our campsite but left the main trail at Lake 11,008 to go cross country the rest of the way. We passed the most intense wildflowers yet and two terminal glacial moraines that looked like they had been breached by water flow. We (unavoidably) crept quietly by the campsite of a couple of rock climbers who were sound asleep in their tent. We dined on Wiedamoo Stew. The air was still smoky at bedtime.
Smoky Fremont Peak
East Side View from Indian Pass
Harrower Glacier
Cross-Country Route Wildflowers
Beyond Trails shows a cross country route over to Titcomb Basin, and we wanted to check it out. After Oatmeal with milk, nuts and fruit, we started our day hike. Light rain showers passed through. The route turned out to be great fun and was a bit of a shortcut to Titcomb Basin. We had to cross talus, but we had learned by then that old talus is good talus and if there was grass growing among the talus, so much the better. Titcomb Basin was impressive! Lots of other people were day hiking there too. The geologist parts of our brains tried imagining the size of the glacier that was there long ago. We did some snacking and then strolled back to Lake 10,813 via the cross-country route. We were back at our campsite by 2 p.m. After napping, we watched the clouds. Dinner was Beans, Rice and Cheese with spiced olive oil. The evening was nice with a light breeze. We were asleep a little after sunset.
Titcomb Basin
Elephant Head
Day 4, August 20, 2020 – Day Hike to Indian Pass
After a breakfast of Cheesy Potatoes, we started our day hike to Indian Pass via Indian Basin Lake. We began to smell wood smoke and the view became hazy. Someone told us that the smoke was from far away, maybe from California. The trail to Indian Pass was nicely graded but wet in spots. We passed wildflowers and bright, green patches of moss. Nearing the top of the pass, we noticed large, dark minerals that looked like they might be from a dark rock called gabbro. The Harrower glacier and the view from Indian Pass looked desolate and gray through the smoky air. At the top of the pass, we met a young couple from Wisconsin who had recently thru hiked the Appalachian Trail. One of them had lost their job due to the pandemic.
We hiked back towards our campsite but left the main trail at Lake 11,008 to go cross country the rest of the way. We passed the most intense wildflowers yet and two terminal glacial moraines that looked like they had been breached by water flow. We (unavoidably) crept quietly by the campsite of a couple of rock climbers who were sound asleep in their tent. We dined on Wiedamoo Stew. The air was still smoky at bedtime.
Smoky Fremont Peak
East Side View from Indian Pass
Harrower Glacier
Cross-Country Route Wildflowers
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arkheel
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Re: TR: Wind River 2 - Elkhart Loop, Aug. 17-26, 2020
Day 5, August 21, 2020 – Lake 10,813 to Wall Lake
After breakfast of Banana Nut Bread Pudding with chocolate chips, we began hiking to Wall Lake. The air was smoky. We took our time, enjoying the cross-country route as we passed Lake 10,794 and South Indian Basin. At the top of Island-Wall Pass, we looked down towards Wall Lake valley. The route looked steep with lots of talus. We climbed down to a snow field. One at time, we climbed down by kicking steps in the soft snow. Then we climbed down another snow field. The route continued down through steep moraine and talus in a hanging valley. The last 300 feet of the hanging valley seemed very steep to us. The route became less steep, and before long we arrived at Wall Lake. Our grassy tent site was on a small hill overlooking the north side of Wall Lake. An interesting multi-channeled stream with rock slabs, slides and pools flowed nearby. It felt like our own private water garden. Dinner was Chicken Curry. The smoke began to clear a little just before sunset.
Lake 10,794
East Side of Island-Wall Pass
Wall Lake
Day 6, August 22, 2020 – Day Hike to Harrower Lakes
There was light frost in the morning. Breakfast was Polenta, eggs, veggie sausage and cheese. While we were enjoying our breakfast tea and coffee, an insect with translucent wings and thorax crawled up on my leg and sat in the sun. After it warmed for several minutes, it flew away. Our plan was to hike up the Harrower Valley to Harrower Lakes. We went up the west side of the valley and returned down the east side. The valley was very scenic, with interesting water slides and interesting rocks. We lunched at the upper lake. Small willow trees we passed on the way back to camp were starting to turn yellow. The smoke cleared out more as the day went on.
Since the Shepherd’s Pie on trip 1 was a flop, we had purchased Good to Go Pad Thai while in Pinedale. We added extra cashews to the Pad Thai and that was dinner. A small rain shower moved across the valley around sunset.
Wall Lake
Harrower Valley
Harrower Valley Panorama
After breakfast of Banana Nut Bread Pudding with chocolate chips, we began hiking to Wall Lake. The air was smoky. We took our time, enjoying the cross-country route as we passed Lake 10,794 and South Indian Basin. At the top of Island-Wall Pass, we looked down towards Wall Lake valley. The route looked steep with lots of talus. We climbed down to a snow field. One at time, we climbed down by kicking steps in the soft snow. Then we climbed down another snow field. The route continued down through steep moraine and talus in a hanging valley. The last 300 feet of the hanging valley seemed very steep to us. The route became less steep, and before long we arrived at Wall Lake. Our grassy tent site was on a small hill overlooking the north side of Wall Lake. An interesting multi-channeled stream with rock slabs, slides and pools flowed nearby. It felt like our own private water garden. Dinner was Chicken Curry. The smoke began to clear a little just before sunset.
Lake 10,794
East Side of Island-Wall Pass
Wall Lake
Day 6, August 22, 2020 – Day Hike to Harrower Lakes
There was light frost in the morning. Breakfast was Polenta, eggs, veggie sausage and cheese. While we were enjoying our breakfast tea and coffee, an insect with translucent wings and thorax crawled up on my leg and sat in the sun. After it warmed for several minutes, it flew away. Our plan was to hike up the Harrower Valley to Harrower Lakes. We went up the west side of the valley and returned down the east side. The valley was very scenic, with interesting water slides and interesting rocks. We lunched at the upper lake. Small willow trees we passed on the way back to camp were starting to turn yellow. The smoke cleared out more as the day went on.
Since the Shepherd’s Pie on trip 1 was a flop, we had purchased Good to Go Pad Thai while in Pinedale. We added extra cashews to the Pad Thai and that was dinner. A small rain shower moved across the valley around sunset.
Wall Lake
Harrower Valley
Harrower Valley Panorama
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arkheel
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Re: TR: Wind River 2 - Elkhart Loop, Aug. 17-26, 2020
Day 7, August 23, 2020 – Wall Lake to Spider Lake
The morning was frosty, and the willows seemed to be getting more yellow. Fireweed was turning red. We ate Chunky Monkey Granola with milk for breakfast. We were sad to leave Wall Lake, which we had started calling “our happy place”. The hiking was fun on rock slabs and before long we were past the crux. We hiked a use trail past Upper Cook Lake. Once past Upper Cook Lake, the route went cross country up a steep, wooded slope. There were lots of elk paths going up the slope. We crossed a rocky plateau to Lake 10,442. We made our way to Spider Lake by following a creek between Lake 10,442 and Spider Lake. I’m not sure that we chose the best route, but it worked.
It was windy at Spider Lake, so we wandered around for an hour looking for a sheltered, level site that was close to the outlet stream. We took a little nap in the tent during a rain shower. The first people that we had seen in two days walked by. Spider Lake is very scenic, with great views of Angel Peak, Angel Pass and Bald Mountain. Dinner was Beans, Rice, Cheese and Fritos. The night was humid and chilly.
The Walls of Wall Lake
Upper Cook Lake
Angel Pass
Day 8, August 24, 2020 – Day Hike Towards Cook Pass
In the morning, our tent was wet with condensation, and our sleeping quilts were damp. There was spotty frost. After a breakfast of Rice Pudding with chocolate chips and almonds, we hiked toward Cook Pass and up to Lake 10,950. At the lake, many tiny fish swam around in the shallows. American pipets were eating some sort of insect hatch. On our way back from Lake 10,950, we scrambled up some rocks to get a better view of a triple drop waterfall on an inlet stream to Spider Lake. We hiked over to a place where Spider Lake narrowed so much that it almost seemed like one could rock hop across, but not quite.
The afternoon was humid and warm. We sat in shade and watched storms brewing over Bald Mountain. The afternoon was windless, and first a few fish then many fish began rising to the surface of glassy Spider Lake. An Osprey tried several times to catch a fish but came up empty each time. We ate Pesto Pasta for dinner. The stars were bright, even through a thin layer of clouds.
Lake 10,950
The morning was frosty, and the willows seemed to be getting more yellow. Fireweed was turning red. We ate Chunky Monkey Granola with milk for breakfast. We were sad to leave Wall Lake, which we had started calling “our happy place”. The hiking was fun on rock slabs and before long we were past the crux. We hiked a use trail past Upper Cook Lake. Once past Upper Cook Lake, the route went cross country up a steep, wooded slope. There were lots of elk paths going up the slope. We crossed a rocky plateau to Lake 10,442. We made our way to Spider Lake by following a creek between Lake 10,442 and Spider Lake. I’m not sure that we chose the best route, but it worked.
It was windy at Spider Lake, so we wandered around for an hour looking for a sheltered, level site that was close to the outlet stream. We took a little nap in the tent during a rain shower. The first people that we had seen in two days walked by. Spider Lake is very scenic, with great views of Angel Peak, Angel Pass and Bald Mountain. Dinner was Beans, Rice, Cheese and Fritos. The night was humid and chilly.
The Walls of Wall Lake
Upper Cook Lake
Angel Pass
Day 8, August 24, 2020 – Day Hike Towards Cook Pass
In the morning, our tent was wet with condensation, and our sleeping quilts were damp. There was spotty frost. After a breakfast of Rice Pudding with chocolate chips and almonds, we hiked toward Cook Pass and up to Lake 10,950. At the lake, many tiny fish swam around in the shallows. American pipets were eating some sort of insect hatch. On our way back from Lake 10,950, we scrambled up some rocks to get a better view of a triple drop waterfall on an inlet stream to Spider Lake. We hiked over to a place where Spider Lake narrowed so much that it almost seemed like one could rock hop across, but not quite.
The afternoon was humid and warm. We sat in shade and watched storms brewing over Bald Mountain. The afternoon was windless, and first a few fish then many fish began rising to the surface of glassy Spider Lake. An Osprey tried several times to catch a fish but came up empty each time. We ate Pesto Pasta for dinner. The stars were bright, even through a thin layer of clouds.
Lake 10,950
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arkheel
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Re: TR: Wind River 2 - Elkhart Loop, Aug. 17-26, 2020
Day 9, August 25, 2020 – Spider Lake to Eklund Lake
We started the day with breakfast of Bobo’s Toaster Pastries and decided right then that we would never eat them on a backpacking trip again. A short cross-country route intersected the Fremont trail. Next, we hiked on the Highline trail to Pole Creek Crossing. The water was low, and we were able to rock hop across. We thought of stopping for the night at Marys Lake but continued to Eklund Lake. We found a sheltered and well used site on the east side of Eklund Lake.
I don’t remember what we had for dinner. We had to eat it quickly and then jump into the tent before several thunderstorms rumbled through in succession. It hailed for a long time and rained so hard that water sheet flowed under the tent. The tent was bone dry inside, but there was a small lake in one of the vestibules. Dyneema is amazing stuff. After the storms passed, it was chilly.
Eklund Lake
Eklund Lake
Day 10, August 26, 2020 – Eklund Lake to Elkhart Trailhead
In the morning, the tent fly was very wet from rain and condensation. We wiped it down with a bit of chamois and packed up the tent. This was the first morning that we had to pack up a truly wet tent. I don’t recall what we had for breakfast. We hustled down the trail. At Photographers Point we stopped and took a few more photos. Then we hiked quickly to the parking lot. It was time for a shower and second breakfast.
View from Photographers Point
Epilogue
I first want to give a big shout out to Wandering Daisy. Without Beyond Trails, we could not have done the trips that we did. We were and are extremely grateful to have had an amazing 20-day vacation from COVID-19 and cancer. We hope that our 2020 visit to the Wind River Range was the first of many.
We started the day with breakfast of Bobo’s Toaster Pastries and decided right then that we would never eat them on a backpacking trip again. A short cross-country route intersected the Fremont trail. Next, we hiked on the Highline trail to Pole Creek Crossing. The water was low, and we were able to rock hop across. We thought of stopping for the night at Marys Lake but continued to Eklund Lake. We found a sheltered and well used site on the east side of Eklund Lake.
I don’t remember what we had for dinner. We had to eat it quickly and then jump into the tent before several thunderstorms rumbled through in succession. It hailed for a long time and rained so hard that water sheet flowed under the tent. The tent was bone dry inside, but there was a small lake in one of the vestibules. Dyneema is amazing stuff. After the storms passed, it was chilly.
Eklund Lake
Eklund Lake
Day 10, August 26, 2020 – Eklund Lake to Elkhart Trailhead
In the morning, the tent fly was very wet from rain and condensation. We wiped it down with a bit of chamois and packed up the tent. This was the first morning that we had to pack up a truly wet tent. I don’t recall what we had for breakfast. We hustled down the trail. At Photographers Point we stopped and took a few more photos. Then we hiked quickly to the parking lot. It was time for a shower and second breakfast.
View from Photographers Point
Epilogue
I first want to give a big shout out to Wandering Daisy. Without Beyond Trails, we could not have done the trips that we did. We were and are extremely grateful to have had an amazing 20-day vacation from COVID-19 and cancer. We hope that our 2020 visit to the Wind River Range was the first of many.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Wind River 2 - Elkhart Loop, Aug. 17-26, 2020
I just re-read your post and am surprised nobody posted comments. I must have only skimmed this report before. Anyway, at least I can now comment and bump this post up!
It looks like some smoke marred the last part of your trip. Nevertheless, this route is also a favorite of mine. Several years ago, I did a day-hike up to just below Knapsack Col to the Twins Glacier and also to Mistake Lake - the uppermost part of this valley is also nice. I have always wanted to go up to Summer Ice Lake, but so far have not. Yes, Wall Lake is wonderful.
As you found out, although Titcomb Basin is very popular and can sometimes be crowded, it is easy to move off the trail (like your camp at the Lake below Elephants Head, to be alone).
I like your style of staying two days at a location and adding a lot of day-hikes. There are tons of nooks and crannies to explore.
I am pretty sure I am going back this summer. The difficulty in getting Sierra permits mid-summer have me frustrated. I can still do early and late season Sierra trips, as well as late July-Labor Day trips in the Winds where no permits are required.
I have been keeping an eye on snowpack and so far, the Winds are at "average". Much snow is gained in late Spring, so too early to tell, but drought conditions are not likely.
It looks like some smoke marred the last part of your trip. Nevertheless, this route is also a favorite of mine. Several years ago, I did a day-hike up to just below Knapsack Col to the Twins Glacier and also to Mistake Lake - the uppermost part of this valley is also nice. I have always wanted to go up to Summer Ice Lake, but so far have not. Yes, Wall Lake is wonderful.
As you found out, although Titcomb Basin is very popular and can sometimes be crowded, it is easy to move off the trail (like your camp at the Lake below Elephants Head, to be alone).
I like your style of staying two days at a location and adding a lot of day-hikes. There are tons of nooks and crannies to explore.
I am pretty sure I am going back this summer. The difficulty in getting Sierra permits mid-summer have me frustrated. I can still do early and late season Sierra trips, as well as late July-Labor Day trips in the Winds where no permits are required.
I have been keeping an eye on snowpack and so far, the Winds are at "average". Much snow is gained in late Spring, so too early to tell, but drought conditions are not likely.
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Harlen
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Re: TR: Wind River 2 - Elkhart Loop, Aug. 17-26, 2020
Wow, nice trip arkheel! Those peaks above Harrower Valley are impressive. I keep hearing about the great crowds found in various parts of the
Winds, such as leaving from Big Sandy, and of course, Titcomb Basin. Once you're in the backcountry does the crowd thin way out? We have only backpacked in the Wind River Range during very early, and late seasons, and pretty much had it to ourselves. Nice route, and beautiful photo doc of your journey. BTW, are you all chefs? I've never heard of such a variety of backpacking food.... don't you like ramen and powdery oatmeal?
Winds, such as leaving from Big Sandy, and of course, Titcomb Basin. Once you're in the backcountry does the crowd thin way out? We have only backpacked in the Wind River Range during very early, and late seasons, and pretty much had it to ourselves. Nice route, and beautiful photo doc of your journey. BTW, are you all chefs? I've never heard of such a variety of backpacking food.... don't you like ramen and powdery oatmeal?
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Wind River 2 - Elkhart Loop, Aug. 17-26, 2020
There are no quotas in the Wind Rivers or permits required. You can voluntarily sign in at the trailhead register. I do because this data is used for the FS to allocate funds for trail maintenance. There are advantages and disadvantages of no permits - personally I am very happy with no permits and the resulting unpredictability of crowds or not. You have a lot of flexibility without permits.
The crowds are hit and miss and it is not necessarily due to time of year. Lots depends on weather. Or mosquito hatch. Or blackfly hatch. Or snowmelt. Or horrible access roads. Or for no rational reason at all. Same as in the Sierra, most people stay within a few hundred feet of the trail, or at most quarter mile. Standard climber's base camps are an exception. The climbing guides identify these. If I did not want to see people, I could easily plan a route that does not. (I can actually do that too in the Sierra!) Named trails and the Skurka high route tend to be crowded. You are most likely to see a few fishermen in the more remote, no-name areas.
The slice of wilderness on the Wind River Indian Reservation requires permits and a fee and they do not maintain trails, barring what their outfitters do. Currently they only have one operating outfitter who maintains two trails. The few locations where trails are maintained can be crowded. However, summer 2020 I had the huge established campsites at Sonnicant Lake (endpoint of one maintained trail) all to myself. That same time period, I hear that just about everyone instead decided to go to Wilson Creek Lakes, about 5 miles north (end of the other maintained trail).
Fewer people go in June. September is busier than you would think due to hunting. Some seasons start late August. There is a lot more horse use than in the Sierra. Commercial activity requires a permit and is regulated quite a bit. Not as many day-hikers as in the Sierra, so not as much thinning of people once beyond day-hiker distances.
Harlen, I think what you would really enjoy is the abundance of wildlife. You may even meet a Grizzly or a wolf. And the flowers are crazy.
The crowds are hit and miss and it is not necessarily due to time of year. Lots depends on weather. Or mosquito hatch. Or blackfly hatch. Or snowmelt. Or horrible access roads. Or for no rational reason at all. Same as in the Sierra, most people stay within a few hundred feet of the trail, or at most quarter mile. Standard climber's base camps are an exception. The climbing guides identify these. If I did not want to see people, I could easily plan a route that does not. (I can actually do that too in the Sierra!) Named trails and the Skurka high route tend to be crowded. You are most likely to see a few fishermen in the more remote, no-name areas.
The slice of wilderness on the Wind River Indian Reservation requires permits and a fee and they do not maintain trails, barring what their outfitters do. Currently they only have one operating outfitter who maintains two trails. The few locations where trails are maintained can be crowded. However, summer 2020 I had the huge established campsites at Sonnicant Lake (endpoint of one maintained trail) all to myself. That same time period, I hear that just about everyone instead decided to go to Wilson Creek Lakes, about 5 miles north (end of the other maintained trail).
Fewer people go in June. September is busier than you would think due to hunting. Some seasons start late August. There is a lot more horse use than in the Sierra. Commercial activity requires a permit and is regulated quite a bit. Not as many day-hikers as in the Sierra, so not as much thinning of people once beyond day-hiker distances.
Harlen, I think what you would really enjoy is the abundance of wildlife. You may even meet a Grizzly or a wolf. And the flowers are crazy.
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rlown
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Re: TR: Wind River 2 - Elkhart Loop, Aug. 17-26, 2020
Let everyone know when you're going and we'll descend on you like vultures 
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Harlen
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Re: TR: Wind River 2 - Elkhart Loop, Aug. 17-26, 2020
rlown wrote:
"I'm not dead yet" " I feel happy!" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBxMPqxJGqILet everyone know when you're going and we'll descend on you like vultures
Last edited by Harlen on Mon Feb 07, 2022 5:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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