I drove down to Kernville to start a trip from Lewis camp trailhead on the 16th, thinking I would just head up the Kern as far as possible, at least getting to fish in the Kern lakes. The lower Kern was raging and quite spectacular and the drive up to the trailhead was incredibly beautiful. Although the forcast called for 100 degree days in Kernville, I thought it would still be reasonably cool at elevation. I spent some time talking to the rangers and they said the plan sounded doable and the fishing should be good in Trout Mdws as well as the Kern Lks. I got a late start, it was pretty warm and I found the scenery somewhat unremarkable. There were also a TON of people out being fathers day weekend. When I got down to the Little Kern there were at least half a dozen tents around so I continued on to Trout Mdws where one ranger told me about a particular couple of spots that he thought would be great fishing. I got there around 6:30 and was a little upset when I found a barbed wire fence and private sign at Cow Camp. I hiked around the gorge looking for another way down without going all the way around but eventually gave up and started heading up the meadows toward the ranger station to camp for the night, where I found 3 other tents. I was absolutely dumbfounded by all the barbed wire fence and man made structure. (I think Barbed Wire Mdws would be a more appropriate name.) In the morning I headed around to the other side of Cow Camp to a little spot down the gorge and fished for about an hour plus, without any luck at all. Heading up the meadows I fished at a couple more spots without luck until I stopped for lunch at yet another horse camp around 11:30 (also passing several more barbed wire fences on the way.) I was pretty hot and looking at my watch saw it was 11:30, ~6500' and 96.8F! It was pretty buggy as well and I just had this feeling that I was in the wrong place so I said the hell with it and turned around. On the way back to the Little Kern it got over 105F and I barely made it back to the river, where I camped for the night. It was Sunday and luckily everyone was gone so I did have that beautiful raging torrent to myself. Making it up to the trailhead in the heat the next day with a full pack of uneaten food was brutal and when I got to the trailhead I collapsed on a bench for a half hour before I could even drive out. The highlight of these days was reading Edward Abbey "Down The River" down by the Little Kern. The rest I couldve done without. I saw that Sonora Pass opened up right before I left so I drove back down to Kernville, across to the 395 and started heading north. I'll take snow over triple digits any day. It got up to 109 outside and I was really feeling a bit sick. By the time I got to Lone Pine I was somewhat miserable and decided to get a cheap(ish) hotel room for the night, which I never do, but I really didn't want to come down with something and have to abandon the whole trip. Much ginger lemon tea and a massive breakfast at Alabama Hills did the trick and I was right as rain and headed north for cooler climes.
One of the many route plans I considered was out of Leavitt Mdws. I had a great chat with a knowledgeable ranger in Bridgeport that got me excited to check out Yparraquirre and/or Long Cyn. She didn't think I would be able to make it to Long Cyn on the Walker trail and said the pass from Yparr. over wasn't too bad although the climg up was challenging. As soon as I saw the lush surroundings and general state of things heading west out of Bridgeport, I knew I was on the right track. I didn't hit the trail until a little after six thirty but figured I could make it to Secret lake for the first night. The Walker was also raging and much of Leavitt Mdws was flooded. Right away I had a sense of peace and happiness that was missing down south. It was significantly cooler, flowers were blooming everywhere and the scenery was snow capped and gorgeous from the start. I made it to Secret lake in time to have a nice chat with Candice and Rick who were camped out in the first spot I came to. They warned me about a group of a dozen or so high school girls camped on the west side so I headed up to the bench and had a great view of Poore lake and no bugs at all. Poore lake had an interesting iridescent hue that resembled Mono lake as well as the minerals in the surrounding mountains. The stars were beautiful up there.
I woke earlyish and had my pole in the water by 6:30. I was determined to catch something so i skipped coffee and breakfast. Without much effort I caught a few sticks, something mossy, and a pine cone by 7:30. I was getting pretty hungry, so I thought I'd try one more spot then go make some breakfast. It looked good but there wasn't much room to cast so the first attempt was pretty short. The second hit a tree and fell straight into the water with a loud plunk, so i figured if there was anything around I probably scared it off. Then I heard a loud splash about 15 ft off and I got excited. I cast one perfectly beyond the splash area and sure enough it hit. Felt huge. I fought with it for a bit and thought it would break my little 4lb line. When I saw the thing i worked it in slowly and decided to drag it onto shore. SUCCESS! I dragged it well away from the water before grabbing the line to have a better look and it broke about a foot off the ground. Must've been heavy
The many crawfish in the lake enjoyed the guts and remains thoroughly, or so it appeared. It was about 4 inches longer than my big size 12 hiking boots and quite delicious. Smoked trout before coffee is the start to a fine day.With a very full belly I was moving slow and it was already 90 by noon. Roosevelt and Lane lakes were pretty but fairly busy with more high school kids, fisherman, etc. I met a nice guy from Boulder who was headed to Secret lake hoping for less people. When I told him about all the folks there he decided to stay in a little spot above Roose. and Lane. He had made it all the way to Piute Mdws along the main trail and told me I shouldn't have too much problem making it to the Long Cyn trail. He also said Piute Mdws was a knee deep muddy bog, and F that S. Considering the conditions and amount of time left, I thought I should play it safe and skip Yparr. Cyn. There were clouds rolling in and I was never happier to be rained on that afternoon. I just stood under a tree and felt the temperature drop 20 degrees in fifteen minutes. Unfortunately, this also raised the already raging creeks a good bit. There were some very fast crossings along the way, six or eight that required getting wet, but none above my knees. Still significant though.
Things just got more and more beautiful from here, with flowers blooming everywhere. My beloved High Sierra. The section of trail through the narrow canyon was spectacular, with a foggy mist coming off the now muddy brown frantic Walker. I dried in the sun a bit then continued on through a knee deep swamp that reminded me of my native south Louisiana, although without the concern of Alligators and Water Moccasins. I saw some beautiful water birds swimming and flying around, got dive bombed by squadrons of mosquitoes and eventually got to the Long Canyon Creek sign where I let out a celebratory wail. I made it half way up the fairly steep initial section before I stopped around eight at a massive waterfall. A somewhat trying, wonderful, exuberant day.
After making a small fire to dry my boots and (absolutely necessary) neoprene socks I continued up the canyon and started to hit patches of snow around 8800'. By 9000' the trail (or what was left of it) disappeared under the snow for good and I happily donned my crampons, wandering through a winter wonderland in shorts and mid 80 degree weather. It was fantastic and I was having an amazing time. A far cry from the experience in Golden Trout. The one casualty of the trip was a hiking pole that bent when I slipped going up a slight incline. Time for the ice axe as the snow was 4 to eight feet deep through here with lots of holes around trees and rocks. The snow was firm and no postholing.
I was moving pretty slow and enjoying myself thoroughly when the forest opened up onto a massive gorgeous meadow where I made an early camp on a nice dry spot, mostly surrounded by snow.
The next morning I decided to leave camp there and head up to the top with a day pack, as I really needed to be out on Sat. This was the most significant snowy outing I've made and I don't feel like I could've picked a better time and place to gain more experience and confidence in my snow skills. This was really some of the most fun I've had in the Sierra and it has inspired me to start getting out much earlier in the future. I only wish I had more time so I could've continued on into Buckeye canyon.
I made great time on the way out and it was a beautiful, slightly cooler, sunny day. The Walker was a lovely shade of turquoise cutting through the canyon.
I would say the water is still rising and conditions are getting more dangerous, especially these next weeks. ALL the snow is melting at once and the difference in a few days was unbelievable. The water was faster and the snow was much slushier on the way out, even though it was earlier in the day. This being said - If you want to get out, GO FOR IT! It is incredibly beautiful. Just be flexible and cautious. You have to have the experience and the gear, but I had one of the best times I've ever had in the mountains. Truly glorious.
Thanks and praise!
