TR: Rae Lakes Loop for a Newbie (the 2nd time) Sep 24-27

[texbob]

Early this year, I decided to take my 55 year old sea dwelling self back into the mountains after about a 30 year absence. Not having any sort of mountain within an 8-9 hour drive, I basically relegated myself to a life of dreaming about what a mountain looked like further than a scenic parking lot.

I backpacked quite a bit in scouts, a few times in college and once in my 20’s. I also did something resembling backpacking in the Marine Corps but not sure if that counts. However, I did carry a pack into the woods on a few occasions and I did sleep in a hole.

I have been carrying around a tattered copy of “Sierra South” since 1980, and I have often looked, while never convinced I would ever get there, at routes and places such as Woods Creek, East Lake, Center Basin, Kearsarge Pass, and of course, Rae Lakes.

I finally decided to do something about this dilemma early this year. My first act in the planning process was to get up at midnight on Mar 1st to reserve a permit. I picked mid September because of the thought that this would be the best month due to a combination of weather and snow free passes. I originally thought I asked for a 4-day permit but it came back as a 5-day. This kind of led me down a path of potentially overreaching my ability.

If there is a top ten list of people who have spent time on researching and planning a 4-5 day trip, I would be on it. I read everything I could find online, bought a few books (including reading “The Complete Walker” from cover to cover for the first time after unsuccessfully trying the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Editions over the years), attending an REI backpacking seminar, watching Ken Burns “The National Parks”, and of course, reading thread after thread on “High Sierra Topix”.

Anyway, I collected all new gear, tried to get in shape, and went on a few practice day hikes with a fully loaded pack. I figured my memories of what I knew back then combined with the new research would hold me over on a popular route such as the Rae Lakes.

One thing initially held me back from meeting my schedule: I had a work situation that forced me to miss my permit date. So, I decided to reschedule for the first day outside of the quota date: Sep 24th. I stuck with my 5-day plan clockwise which included the 3rd night at Center Basin, and the 4th night at East Lake. I quickly found out that perhaps this was a bit ambitious for my first trip after a very long layoff.

[texbob]

Day One - Upper Paradise

After spending the previous day amongst the Giant Sequoias and the throngs of bus crowds (The General Sherman area made me want to look for the Fast Pass Kiosk), I self issued my permit and set off down the sandy path towards Baileys Bridge at about 9AM. I crossed paths with several coming back in, and I was struck by the difference of my green self and their confidence of being “out there” already. I am sure some had a wild night with the cold and snow 3 nights prior but the weather forecast was looking great for several days although cold high up. I was confident I was prepared for temps in the teens and it turned out that I was.

After 1.9 miles, the turn up the South Fork Kings River, and towards Mist Falls, started the 2.5-day uphill slog. The number of day hikers seen on this portion was very small. I guess the off season has started. I stopped at Mist Falls for lunch but didn’t dally around too much. After going through a few open meadows with some incredible scenery combined with Aspen trees just beginning to turn color, I was convinced there is no other place I should be.

I made camp that night at Upper Paradise which also turned out to be the choice of about 20-30 other people. After seeing so few on the trail, I was surprised at the number hanging out at this site. Some were hiking counter-clockwise but some I would run into a few times again during the loop. I think it is interesting how people traveling the same direction on a trail leapfrog each other with some being seen several times and others never seen again.

A few campfires sprung up causing groups to congregate. The night was really cold with temps dropping down into the low teens. My flask of JD was quite popular but I was outdone by another couple carrying some single malt scotch. I was happy I packed the right amount of clothes to deal with this because I was certainly questioning myself carrying the extra load up Paradise Valley.

The trail before the uphill stuff started


A mule train headed downhill led by an NPS Ranger. I thought mule poop covered 80% of the trail the entire loop.


South Fork Kings River near Middle Paradise camping area


Above Mist Falls, the scenery really opens up!


Recognizing the Sphinx made me realize i am finally here.


Awestruck at what I was seeing


Upper Paradise camping among several others

[texbob]

Day Two - Rae Lakes

The day started out with a ford of South Fork Kings River underneath the washed out bridge from the spring melt and subsequent high water levels. This was a source of much worry over the summer wondering if the level would ever drop down low enough. As it turned out, the water was never higher than shin deep, and the current not strong. However, my feet were definitely numb after crossing.

The rest of the morning was a steady ascent towards the Woods Creek suspension bridge which I reached about noon. I read a few days ago that the wooden slats were replaced with new metal slats. I have no idea if this made for a steadier crossing but the bridge didn’t sway as much as I expected.

I tried to choke down some food near the bridge but I started to detect a bit of nausea. I dealt with this the rest of the trip, and I have no idea what it was about. Was it altitude related, something I ate or drank, or something else carried over prior to the trip? Jack Daniels? I never felt headaches, shortness of breath or weakness while hiking. In any event, it stayed with me until after leaving SEKI, and during the long uphill walk to Rae Lakes, I decided to alter my plans. I opted to forgo the Center Basin part and put off figuring out what to do with East Lake until tomorrow. The walk up the canyon towards Dollar Lake was incredible but surprising at the number of uphill steps needed to get there. At one point I heard a very loud rockfall towards the east (2 days before the Yosemite death from a rockfall).

Approaching the turn off trail to the Rae Lake bear boxes, I came across a bear rooting around in the dirt. I was surprisingly close but it didn’t seem to care in the least that I was there. Walking into the camping area near the bear boxes, I commented to a few other people that there was a bear about 50 yards east. They never saw it.

I set up camp on a very scenic overlook on Middle Rae Lakes, and tried to eat some freeze dried dinner. However, I could barely touch it due to my stomach issues, and then I had to think about how I am going to pack out 3/4 of a Mountain House meal that has been rehydrated and uneaten.

I jumped into the tent about 6PM not feeling very good at all, mostly due to nausea, but also due to not being able to enjoy the incredible views around me. I thought about this moment for months: hanging out watching the sun go down over Painted Lady and then being awed by the bright milky way overhead. However, I just wasn’t feeling it. Finally, the nausea seemed to break about 4AM which was a bit of relief but it never truly went away.

Finally seeing the suspension bridge was kind of exciting


For all you old timers, notice the metal slats on the bridge


No, we are not in Houston any more


Dollar Lake was a welcome relief from the uphill walk


Probably my favorite photo


The first of 3 bears to come into my life


And the scene I was waiting for all summer

[texbob]

Day Three - Junction Meadows

With Center Basin being off the plan, I walked out of Rae Lakes about 8AM feeling pretty good. However, this was after not being able to eat breakfast. The switchback ascent up to Glen Pass was certainly imposing from Rae Lakes but it didn’t seem as bad as anticipated. One 50 yard snowfield blocked the final stretch but it was a piece of cake to cross. I reached the pass about 11AM and waited for a couple from England, that I met at Upper Paradise, making their ascent. We hung around the pass taking some photos but decided the sub freezing temps weren't all that comfortable, and we headed down the south side. I walked with my new friends until I stopped for the next camping area.

On the way down, I thought I was fortunate to see a couple of American Pikas. One decided he/she should pose for the camera. I read about their plight on Wikipedia later (higher temps are deadly), and I am wondering if it won’t be long before they are not seen in this area.

On the map it didn’t seem all that far but the route down to Junction Meadow took most of the rest of the day. I probably saw more hikers on this part versus the rest of the trail combined. I pulled into Junction Meadow about 4PM, and my new found friends from the UK decided to push down the trail a bit further in order to get to Roads End earlier in the day.

The camping area was a nice grassy area off the trail just west of the East Lake trail, and I was still thinking of heading up there the next day. However, after another repeat of not being able to eat dinner, and having yet another 3/4 of re-hydrated uneaten Mountain House meal to deal with, I decided it is best to get out of the woods tomorrow. Of course, now sitting safely at my computer, I wish I stuck to my plan.

Just another one of those early day the wind is calm photo of Painted Lady


The obligatory shot of Rae Lakes from Glen Pass


The south side of Glen Pass showing some remnants of Thursday's surprise snow storm


An American Pika. This holds the title of the planet's cutest mammal.


East Vidette Peak


Charlotte Lake

[texbob]

Day Four - Roads End

I actually slept well this night. After getting up in the morning, I went to retrieve my BearVault, and I found it tipped over and covered with muddy bear paw prints. I even got a nice scratch on the lid to take home as a souvenir. I guess the bear was attracted to the uneaten lasagna but because he couldn’t get to it, he left a nice large calling card 20ft from my tent. I am glad I never heard this commotion because I am sure sleep would have been over.

Walking out was fairly uneventful except for nearly walking into yet another bear. This one was walking on the trail the same direction as I, and when I saw it, it was looking over his shoulder at me. It is kind of thrilling thinking that perhaps it was considering me for breakfast. I just had to keep telling myself: bear attacks are very rare around here. In any event, he moved on down the trail, and I followed shortly after (never saw him again).

Walking the final two miles after the descent down the switchbacks where Bubbs Creek meets South Fork Kings River, I felt I had the “out there” look that I envied when starting the loop. However, I couldn’t show it off because I saw no one heading outbound on that portion of the trail.

I reached Roads End about 1:30 with two words going through my head: Cheeseburger and a Coke. Continuing the theme of my eating habits on the loop, I couldn’t really eat the Cheeseburger at the Kings Canyon Village snack bar but the coke went down well.

The two big rocks you have to walk between portion of the Bubb's Creek trail


Neat pano of the South Fork Kings River with Paradise Valley going up to the right


Close to the cheeseburger and coke


Yours truly in case you see me on a trail

[texbob]

Some final thoughts:

I still don’t know what ailed me. I only ate 1/3 of the food that I brought. With packing out all the trash and uneaten food, I never got to experience a lighter load at the end versus the start. However, I think I made the right decision taking the trail out early due to the low caloric intake for a couple of days.


I think I did pretty good with my gear considering I was a new newbie. Perhaps some was was a bit on the heavy side but everything I packed seemed to have a purpose. Most importantly, there was nothing that I forgot or wished I packed. I was adequately prepared for the cold.


While walking, I decided there are 3 classes of hikers on the Rae Lakes Loop. They are:
-the steerage class (me) doing “The Loop”. This class includes weekend warriors like me out for perhaps the first time, or first time in a while.

-the journeyman class consisted of the JMT’ers. These people seem to have a quiet confidence about them with light loads and a fast pace. To them, Rae Lakes was just another stop. To me, Rae Lakes was the epicenter.

-The cream of the crop were definitely PCT’ers. I came across one trudging up to Glen Pass from the south and I paid him his due reverence. He skipped this section earlier this year due to the snow issues, and he was now going back to fill in the blanks. It seemed to me that these guys are distinguished with their lean bodies, somewhat ragged appearance, and a certain odor about them.


Solo vs group hiking - My goal from the start was to do this solo. I wanted to hike my own schedule, take breaks when I wanted to, and basically be alone with my thoughts. However, after spending the last night as the sole occupant of the camping area, and being able to walk most of the day with my UK friends, I started to miss people. So perhaps my next trip out will be with some others.

Yes, there will definitely be another…

[Willythedog]

Dude, your pictures are SO good

[balzaccom]

Really nice report! thanks.

[cgundersen]

texbob,
Great TR and with all the chilly temps over the last couple weeks you get kudos for being prepared. Also, that's one of the best pika shots I've seen. They tend to be pretty skittish and have repeatedly frustrated the efforts of photographers I've been out with. And, I know that this is just anecdotal reporting, but I tend to see pika at lower elevations than I recall in prior decades. My wife & I have conjectured that this may be a sign that some of them are "adapting" to warmer temperatures, but it obviously would require a competent field biologist to verify this. Nevertheless, I certainly do not mind seeing pika anywhere in the Sierra. A bear thrashing my bear can is another matter....... Oh, and that freshly bathed smell of folks heading into the hills versus the "musty" vapors of those heading out: unforgettable! Cameron

[texbob]

They tend to be pretty skittish and have repeatedly frustrated the efforts of photographers I've been out with.

The first pika that I saw was definitely skittish and ran into its hole in the ground as soon as it saw me. The 2nd one in the picture ran around quite a bit with flowers in its mouth before disappearing into its hole but quickly came out and stood in the pose you see right next to the trail. I couldn't believe my luck.

Here it is before the pose