Cathedral in Yosemite or anything else on the HST/JMT

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TwoFortyJeff
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Cathedral in Yosemite or anything else on the HST/JMT

Post by TwoFortyJeff »

Is it possible for someone with no climbing equipment or experience to climb Cathedral peak?
I read there is a nontechnical mountaineers route. Is it easy to find?
Even if I can't do the 15ft of class 4 on the summit block, I'd love to see how far I can get.

If anyone has any other suggestions along the JMT/HST, I'm all ears.
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Post by EricJLee »

Jeff, I wouldn't recomment going to the summit if you have no climbing or class 4(alpine) experience. It's fairly exposed, there is a nice little airy traverse to get to the final 15ft. You could make it up to within maybe 100-200ft of the summit, that is still class 2-3 scrambling though.
Image
The final 15ft, not vertical, but maybe 70degrees.
Pics from Cathedral Area July 2006
If you're gonna be taking the JMT all the way South i can give you lots of great peak suggestions along the way. Donohue Peak is an easy scramble from the trail, great views.
Image
Let me know if you want peak suggestions for the more Southern sections..
Eric
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Post by TwoFortyJeff »

I'm starting in Giant Forest in Sequoia and taking the High Sierra Trail to Whitney. Then I am going from Whitney all the way to Yosemite Valley. I'll be doing some more random trips around Yosemite, hopefully. I'm open to any suggestions along the way.

I've done a bit of class 3 scrambling, but it was mostly short sections and the exposure wasn't that bad. I would feel comfortable doing more.

From what I found at summit post, there is a west and east face, both of which are class 3. It sounds like the bad exposure is at the class 4 summit block, which is only the last 15 ft. I think getting that far would be enough. I'm just wondering how hard it is to find the easiest route.

Is that photo you posted the last 15ft section?
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Post by BSquared »

Great question! I'm "working on" a list of class 3 and below peaks that can be done as day-hikes from a camp on the JMT, but it's a retirement project, and I'm not retired yet! :lol: I definitely second the Donohue Peak suggestion, though. Clouds Rest is also a superb class 1 detour from the JMT in the Yosemite area. And obviously Half Dome, but you have to have a high tolerance for crowds... I'd spend my time on Clouds Rest personally.
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Post by markskor »

Voglesang Peak is just a 1/2 day hike...up and back from the HSC. Great views of the backside of Half Dome from there...Class 2 - (maybe 3 at best.).

I would not attempt Cathedral without roping in and some previous climbing experience...too much exposure...5.6 the last section - last 2 pitches, but good rock and views from just below the summit block.
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Post by EricJLee »

Mark, I don't recall any class 5 on the standard route. If you are referring to the SE buttress, then yes, but Jeff asks about the Mtneers route. Yes Jeff, that picture is of the last 15-20ft or so. As mentioned earlier there is a little airy traverse to this section, which you may or may not want to do, the last section is solid 4th. The approach up the face of Cathedral to the saddle is a mix of ledges and dodging bushes. A bit of route finding, though the whole face is laid out in front of you, easy to see, dunno if there is 1 best way up.

Other Peaks on the JMT:
Red Cones near Devils Postpile(nice views of the valley, 200ft climb)
Mt Senger off Seldon Pass(C2)
Mt Solomons off Muir Pass(C2 may have snow)
Mt Warlow off Muir Pass(C2)
Split Mt from Upper Basin(C2)
Mt Prater from Upper Basin(C2)
Mt Wynne and Mt Pinchot from Pinchot Pass(C2-3)
Junction Peak from Forester Pass(C3)
Mt Muir and Mt Whitney of course(C3/C1)
These are just the peaks near the JMT, there are many more if you have a full day to spare.

Eric
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Post by BSquared »

Eric, you just completely deflated one of my retirement projects! :crybaby:

Seriously: cool list! It'll give me hours of fun on Google Earth...
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Post by TwoFortyJeff »

BSquared wrote:Eric, you just completely deflated one of my retirement projects! :crybaby:

Seriously: cool list! It'll give me hours of fun on Google Earth...
Yeah, I am about to break out the map and start circling peaks.

Any suggestions for some class 3 stuff?
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Post by giantbrookie »

I can't add to the Cathedral discussion, but in terms of peaks doable as dayhikes from the JMT I'd add a few more, some of which are a bit further and may require a layover day. Among these are some truly classic peaks. From north to south these might include: Mts Lyell and Maclure (c3), Mts Ritter and Banner (c3--if you go from 1000Is it's a bit tough to do both in a day, but if you choose to do only one of them, these can go class 2 by going around the backside--a long but doable dayhike), Evolution area: Mt Fiske (c2), Mt Spencer (c2 very short hike), Mt Goddard (c2 or c3 depending on route--a rather long dayhike), Black Giant (from Muir Pass, class 2). More Upper Basin peaks (in addition to Split Mtn): Mt Bolton Brown (c2), Mt Prater (can easily be included into Split Mtn. double header; Prater is listed as class 1 and is except for a spectacularly exposed short knife edge section at the summit--call that 10 feet class 3), Cardinal Mtn. (Taboose Pass) (c2), Striped Mtn. (Taboose Pass, c2), Arrow Peak (Bench L/Taboose area, c2), Mts Wynne and Pinchot (c2) (Pinchot Pass), Coloseum Mtn (Pinchot-Sawmill area--C2 there's another one north of this but I forget the name), Mt. Cedric Wright (Woods Lake area, C2), Mt Cotter (c3) Rae Lakes area. I know I'm missing a few,but I don't have my topos with me right now. I guess the bottom line is that the route has a lot to offer for the class 3 and under peak bagger.
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Post by AfterSeven »

Cathedral: Go as far as you can and stop when you feel uncomfortable. Common sense stuff. I have brought non-climber friends up the normal route and they seem to stop at the last large ledge before things get class 2/3 ish about 50 - 60 feet below the summit....they seemed happy enough there. I have also had a non-climber follow straight to the top with no complaining. After the last ledge/bench you cross through a notch and do the last bit of class 4 that is well documented in books and on the net....it's just my opinion but the moves are all there and I would classify the holds and foot placements as pretty "bomber" ...there is no move that can't be reversed and on a normal day you have a good chance of following someone who's a little more at ease with the exposure.

As fot the JMT Peaks:

I rate Mt. Solomon pretty highly as a pretty easy peak with a fantastic 360 view. Great bang for the buck. Black Giant has a slightly better view but will consume a lot more daylight.

Mt. Darwin is a good one from an Evolution Lake basecamp...a real titan and worth the extra effort.

Junction Peak is a few hours round trip from F. Pass, I wouldn't stray too far from the obvious path to the summit as certain parts of the mountain are notoriusly loose and crappy.

Many of the Sierra Crest Peaks can be done in day shots from Hiway 395, so if I were you I'd focus on peaks West of the JMT, because they tend not to be viable day hikes and take a bit more logistics. For example: The Hermit (West of the Trail) might be a better choice than Mt. Darwin (East of the Trail), because Darwin can be climbed from your car in a very long day....whereas The Hermit cannot.

Banner, Ritter & Lyell are worthy targets...but all will take 1/2 to 3/4 day from any given basecamp. Banner being the quickest of the 3 projects.

The Vennacher Needle is an easy summit with a fantastic view; approach from the South/ South East and as a bonus it has a few nifty tarns at the base that make excellent campsites with sprawling vistas, you're sure to be away from the masses there and yet less than a mile from the JMT.

Any Pass you cross on the HST or JMT (and you'll be crossing many) is bound to have at least 1 doable peak nearby, it's usually a question of fitness and hydration rather than climbing difficulty and exposure.

For whatever reason I tend to enjoy the interior peaks a bit better than the Sierra Crest peaks, the view of owens valley gets a bit old, whereas the feeling that you are surrounded by 12,000 to 14000 peaks in every direction is really quite inspiring. Good luck...trip sounds fun.
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