TR Yosemite: Cathedral Range 9/7-15
Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2021 10:12 am
Cathedral Range West Side Cirques
9/7-15, 2021
On the west side of the Cathedral Range, glaciers have carved five cirques with hanging valleys containing several lakes and ponds: 1) headwaters of Fletcher Creek including Townsley Lake and Vogelsang Lake, 2) the hanging valley of Bernice/Gallison Lakes that flow into Lewis Creek, 3) Florence Creek with Florence Lake and its upper lakes that flow into Lewis Creek, 4) the hanging valley of Hutchings Creek with its upper lakes that flow into the Lyell Fork of the Merced River and 5) the large hanging valley and benches of the Lyell Fork of the Merced. Note that the Lyell Fork of the Merced is not any part of the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne.
On previous trips I had quickly passed through all of these except never to Florence Lake; and now wanted to spend a little more time to day-hike and fish. There are well maintained trails to reach each creek that drains each cirque, but challenging ascents up relatively steep, cliffy walls to reach the hanging valleys and upper lakes (except for Townsley which is very easy).
Luckily, smoke was not an issue and there even were some exceptionally clear days after a cleansing storm on the third day. Other than the usual crowds around Vogelsang Sierra High Camp area, there were very few people. My over-ambitious initial plan included an in-out loop adding McClure Lake and Lyell Canyon one way and Rafferty Creek the other. In the end I did a simple in and out via Rafferty Creek; 67.4 miles in 9 days, with the first and last day including 4-5 hours driving.
9/7 Wilderness Center TH to Townsley Lake
8.2 miles 4.7 hours, +1785 elevation (including 4 hour drive)
I left town at 6AM and the drive was surprisingly quick, reaching the Wilderness Center to pick up my permit at 10:15. The parking lot had only a few cars with some construction equipment in the center, including a highway electronic sign which looked like it was just stored there. I was so focused on getting on the trail that this oddity did not register and I paid the sign no attention. The official giving me the permit said nothing of this.
o
It was a boring, painful slog up the trail to Tuolumne Pass; my pack was too heavy, it was hot and there was no water. Thankfully the trail has a gentle grade and lots of shade for rests. Being day after Labor Day, many backpackers were coming down the trail, including the ever large number of day-hikers. Initially I thought I might return over Parsons Peak and come out via McClure Lake and Lyell Canyon so I camped at Townsley Lake (it was one of my “must see” locations) just in case I did not come back. I used the exact campsite I had been to a few years ago. I fished a bit with little luck which was probably fortunate because I really needed to eat up some of the food! The sunset was beautiful as usual. There was just a bit of haze, which made the distant peaks blurry.
9/8 Townsley Lake to Florence Lake
5.4 miles, 4.5 hours, +1260/-1725 elevation
Back and forth weighing route options kept me awake much of the night and I awoke tired, still unsure of going up to Bernice Lake or Florence Lake or simply getting as far as I could towards the Lyell Fork of the Merced. I would just see how I felt. Vogelsang Lake was crowded with backpackers and I was glad I chose Townsley Lake. At the pass, I studied my intended route up Parsons Peak if I kept to my original plan. I had done it in 2006, but it looked awful! Upper Lewis Creek is quite pretty, still flowing a bit with good quality water and nice campsites, although views are pretty woodsy. I was feeling good at the junction to Bernice Lake and decided to go on to Florence Lake.
I started straight up the granite slabs just left of the falls until it got a bit too steep for my taste. Then I traversed left over to the trees and found a come-and-go use trail with dirt and grass just about as steep as the rock slabs. There were distinct cairns at critical locations. I was beat by the time I got to the lower set of lakes and stopped for a long rest and lunch. Somehow these lower lakes escaped my notice when I was looking at the map. I thought I was at Florence Lake but still had more elevation gain. Thankfully it looked a lot longer than it was. There are not many campsites at Florence Lake with one large established site near the outlet, but the deep duff forest floor would not hold my tent stakes. So I moved over to the grassy shore; an illegal site, but it held my stakes. By the time I got set up and cleaned up I had wasted an hour.
The plan was to day-hike to the next lake up, and there probably was plenty of time. The view from Florence Lake is limited as the 600 foot cliff blocks views to the upper peaks, except their tops. I was out of gas and the terrain looked difficult and cliffy. I punted and fished near the outlet. I regret not doing the day-hike; but I will just have to come back and try again.
Florence Lake is not easy to fly fish as it has little open shore for back casting. The fish were small so I did not try to hook any- just played with them. Well, later in the afternoon when I really wanted to catch a fish, none were interested. Clouds were building all afternoon. My In-Reach weather report had 10% chance of rain for the next day. Cooler weather would actually be a blessing.
9/7-15, 2021
On the west side of the Cathedral Range, glaciers have carved five cirques with hanging valleys containing several lakes and ponds: 1) headwaters of Fletcher Creek including Townsley Lake and Vogelsang Lake, 2) the hanging valley of Bernice/Gallison Lakes that flow into Lewis Creek, 3) Florence Creek with Florence Lake and its upper lakes that flow into Lewis Creek, 4) the hanging valley of Hutchings Creek with its upper lakes that flow into the Lyell Fork of the Merced River and 5) the large hanging valley and benches of the Lyell Fork of the Merced. Note that the Lyell Fork of the Merced is not any part of the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne.
On previous trips I had quickly passed through all of these except never to Florence Lake; and now wanted to spend a little more time to day-hike and fish. There are well maintained trails to reach each creek that drains each cirque, but challenging ascents up relatively steep, cliffy walls to reach the hanging valleys and upper lakes (except for Townsley which is very easy).
Luckily, smoke was not an issue and there even were some exceptionally clear days after a cleansing storm on the third day. Other than the usual crowds around Vogelsang Sierra High Camp area, there were very few people. My over-ambitious initial plan included an in-out loop adding McClure Lake and Lyell Canyon one way and Rafferty Creek the other. In the end I did a simple in and out via Rafferty Creek; 67.4 miles in 9 days, with the first and last day including 4-5 hours driving.
9/7 Wilderness Center TH to Townsley Lake
8.2 miles 4.7 hours, +1785 elevation (including 4 hour drive)
I left town at 6AM and the drive was surprisingly quick, reaching the Wilderness Center to pick up my permit at 10:15. The parking lot had only a few cars with some construction equipment in the center, including a highway electronic sign which looked like it was just stored there. I was so focused on getting on the trail that this oddity did not register and I paid the sign no attention. The official giving me the permit said nothing of this.
o
It was a boring, painful slog up the trail to Tuolumne Pass; my pack was too heavy, it was hot and there was no water. Thankfully the trail has a gentle grade and lots of shade for rests. Being day after Labor Day, many backpackers were coming down the trail, including the ever large number of day-hikers. Initially I thought I might return over Parsons Peak and come out via McClure Lake and Lyell Canyon so I camped at Townsley Lake (it was one of my “must see” locations) just in case I did not come back. I used the exact campsite I had been to a few years ago. I fished a bit with little luck which was probably fortunate because I really needed to eat up some of the food! The sunset was beautiful as usual. There was just a bit of haze, which made the distant peaks blurry.
9/8 Townsley Lake to Florence Lake
5.4 miles, 4.5 hours, +1260/-1725 elevation
Back and forth weighing route options kept me awake much of the night and I awoke tired, still unsure of going up to Bernice Lake or Florence Lake or simply getting as far as I could towards the Lyell Fork of the Merced. I would just see how I felt. Vogelsang Lake was crowded with backpackers and I was glad I chose Townsley Lake. At the pass, I studied my intended route up Parsons Peak if I kept to my original plan. I had done it in 2006, but it looked awful! Upper Lewis Creek is quite pretty, still flowing a bit with good quality water and nice campsites, although views are pretty woodsy. I was feeling good at the junction to Bernice Lake and decided to go on to Florence Lake.
I started straight up the granite slabs just left of the falls until it got a bit too steep for my taste. Then I traversed left over to the trees and found a come-and-go use trail with dirt and grass just about as steep as the rock slabs. There were distinct cairns at critical locations. I was beat by the time I got to the lower set of lakes and stopped for a long rest and lunch. Somehow these lower lakes escaped my notice when I was looking at the map. I thought I was at Florence Lake but still had more elevation gain. Thankfully it looked a lot longer than it was. There are not many campsites at Florence Lake with one large established site near the outlet, but the deep duff forest floor would not hold my tent stakes. So I moved over to the grassy shore; an illegal site, but it held my stakes. By the time I got set up and cleaned up I had wasted an hour.
The plan was to day-hike to the next lake up, and there probably was plenty of time. The view from Florence Lake is limited as the 600 foot cliff blocks views to the upper peaks, except their tops. I was out of gas and the terrain looked difficult and cliffy. I punted and fished near the outlet. I regret not doing the day-hike; but I will just have to come back and try again.
Florence Lake is not easy to fly fish as it has little open shore for back casting. The fish were small so I did not try to hook any- just played with them. Well, later in the afternoon when I really wanted to catch a fish, none were interested. Clouds were building all afternoon. My In-Reach weather report had 10% chance of rain for the next day. Cooler weather would actually be a blessing.