TR: Wind Rivers 2023: trip 4
Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2023 9:12 am
Big Sandy North Loop
August 14-22, 2023
Day1. 8/14/2003. Skull Lake
(10.9 miles, about 8 hours, 1915 feet elevation gain/ 770 feet loss)
It had rained hard enough during the night for a free car wash! I wanted an early start so stuffed the wet car-camping tent in a big garbage bag and threw it in the trunk. I found a parking spot right next to the trailhead! I headed up the trail I had just come down. A somewhat hidden sign marked the Fremont Trail, which was now labeled CDT. I steadily went up the trail quickly passing several fellows carrying huge packs. The trail was mostly shaded as it climbed through a forest marred by dead trees caused by the “2020 Blowdown” of trees already killed by the bark beetle. I reached the top near Divide Lake and took a break. The trail then skirts around a huge wet meadow. Although many hikers use the old trail that goes through the meadow, I suspected it would be full of mosquitoes. Shortly before Dads Lake I nearly got “caught” by the back-cast of a fellow fly-fishing from the trail. He had not yet caught a fish. Both Lakes are popular overnight destination and there were several tents and backpackers. A gentle ascent along a small creek brought me to Marms Lake where I stopped to eat lunch and get water. I spotted fish in the lake and was tempted to try to catch one.
In another hour I reached Washakie Creek. A CDT hiker was going south, a young couple was downstream taking a swim, and several guys were hopping rocks above the horse crossing. Being hot I preferred to wade to cool off my feet. This being my “must reach” point I stopped and considered staying. In retrospect I should have, given the poor fishing at Skull Lake. It was early so I continued up the trail. A friendly young gal horse packer who worked for Big Sandy Lodge was coming back. I met her two more times on this trip.
Skull Lake was like a small city but thankfully there were abundant campsites to accommodate all. I spent nearly half an hour looking for sites, ending up across the outlet on the hill to the west. No other tent was in sight, but I met several people gathering water at the outlet stream. It was late afternoon and I was tired, but spent several hours fishing. Catching fish was not the problem; but every fish was sardine size so I threw them back. I returned to camp where I had solar heated water in the Platypus containers. I hid behind a bush near my tent for a quick warm bath. I then cooked dinner and the wind picked up. I was happy that my foot was normal and I could now hike my usual rate and not limp along.
Day2. 8/15/2023: Macon Lake
(4.6 miles, about 5 hours, 1465 feet elevation gain/ 980 feet loss)
Although a short distance was planned, I was up at 6AM so that I would have plenty of time to fish when I got to Macon Lake. I left while most others were still asleep or just getting up. After a short backtrack I turned onto the Washakie Pass Trail. The shaded lower part transitioned to alpine terrain as it gradually gained elevation through beautiful meadows and several smaller ponds. The half mile below the pass was steep and rocky with a few switchbacks. On top I met a friendly couple who had day-hiked from Washakie Lake. The snowfield on the east side had mostly melted with only a small distance over soft snow and talus before the trail became distinct and well maintained as it steeply descended to Macon Lake. I planned to camp on the north shores across from the trail that runs along the south shore. Not only is the fishing better, it is secluded.
Regardless of location, campsites were all rocky with little flat ground. Scrub timber and brush also limited choices. I checked out every possible campsite for nearly an hour and landed on the campsite I used last year. While looking on the south shore I contemplated dropping 200 feet to Pass Lake but decided it would be excessively shady and had unknown fishing potential.
After setting up, and of course, a bath, I started fishing. I had no luck as I fished the little bay below my camp where I caught fish last year. Moving along the shore towards the inlet, at one point, there were the fish! I quickly caught two fat 11-inch brook trout. I snagged another but it got off before I landed it. Continuing down the shore, there were no more fish. I cleaned the fish and then just poked around taking photos. It was windy so cooking the fish was challenging since I needed to simmer them without the wind blowing out the flame. The wind died down just as I started eating and out came the pesky mosquitoes. Just before sunset the lighting was perfect so I hurried to the inlet to get photos. It was a very good day and I slept great.
August 14-22, 2023
Day1. 8/14/2003. Skull Lake
(10.9 miles, about 8 hours, 1915 feet elevation gain/ 770 feet loss)
It had rained hard enough during the night for a free car wash! I wanted an early start so stuffed the wet car-camping tent in a big garbage bag and threw it in the trunk. I found a parking spot right next to the trailhead! I headed up the trail I had just come down. A somewhat hidden sign marked the Fremont Trail, which was now labeled CDT. I steadily went up the trail quickly passing several fellows carrying huge packs. The trail was mostly shaded as it climbed through a forest marred by dead trees caused by the “2020 Blowdown” of trees already killed by the bark beetle. I reached the top near Divide Lake and took a break. The trail then skirts around a huge wet meadow. Although many hikers use the old trail that goes through the meadow, I suspected it would be full of mosquitoes. Shortly before Dads Lake I nearly got “caught” by the back-cast of a fellow fly-fishing from the trail. He had not yet caught a fish. Both Lakes are popular overnight destination and there were several tents and backpackers. A gentle ascent along a small creek brought me to Marms Lake where I stopped to eat lunch and get water. I spotted fish in the lake and was tempted to try to catch one.
In another hour I reached Washakie Creek. A CDT hiker was going south, a young couple was downstream taking a swim, and several guys were hopping rocks above the horse crossing. Being hot I preferred to wade to cool off my feet. This being my “must reach” point I stopped and considered staying. In retrospect I should have, given the poor fishing at Skull Lake. It was early so I continued up the trail. A friendly young gal horse packer who worked for Big Sandy Lodge was coming back. I met her two more times on this trip.
Skull Lake was like a small city but thankfully there were abundant campsites to accommodate all. I spent nearly half an hour looking for sites, ending up across the outlet on the hill to the west. No other tent was in sight, but I met several people gathering water at the outlet stream. It was late afternoon and I was tired, but spent several hours fishing. Catching fish was not the problem; but every fish was sardine size so I threw them back. I returned to camp where I had solar heated water in the Platypus containers. I hid behind a bush near my tent for a quick warm bath. I then cooked dinner and the wind picked up. I was happy that my foot was normal and I could now hike my usual rate and not limp along.
Day2. 8/15/2023: Macon Lake
(4.6 miles, about 5 hours, 1465 feet elevation gain/ 980 feet loss)
Although a short distance was planned, I was up at 6AM so that I would have plenty of time to fish when I got to Macon Lake. I left while most others were still asleep or just getting up. After a short backtrack I turned onto the Washakie Pass Trail. The shaded lower part transitioned to alpine terrain as it gradually gained elevation through beautiful meadows and several smaller ponds. The half mile below the pass was steep and rocky with a few switchbacks. On top I met a friendly couple who had day-hiked from Washakie Lake. The snowfield on the east side had mostly melted with only a small distance over soft snow and talus before the trail became distinct and well maintained as it steeply descended to Macon Lake. I planned to camp on the north shores across from the trail that runs along the south shore. Not only is the fishing better, it is secluded.
Regardless of location, campsites were all rocky with little flat ground. Scrub timber and brush also limited choices. I checked out every possible campsite for nearly an hour and landed on the campsite I used last year. While looking on the south shore I contemplated dropping 200 feet to Pass Lake but decided it would be excessively shady and had unknown fishing potential.
After setting up, and of course, a bath, I started fishing. I had no luck as I fished the little bay below my camp where I caught fish last year. Moving along the shore towards the inlet, at one point, there were the fish! I quickly caught two fat 11-inch brook trout. I snagged another but it got off before I landed it. Continuing down the shore, there were no more fish. I cleaned the fish and then just poked around taking photos. It was windy so cooking the fish was challenging since I needed to simmer them without the wind blowing out the flame. The wind died down just as I started eating and out came the pesky mosquitoes. Just before sunset the lighting was perfect so I hurried to the inlet to get photos. It was a very good day and I slept great.