TR: Yosemite Falls Trail 3/21 - 3/22

[calarn]

TR: Yosemite Falls Trail 3/21 - 3/22

Day 1: 7.3 miles, 4400' gain, 1700' loss
Day 2: 3.1 miles, 1200' gain, 4000' loss

I've gotten a couple questions about the trail conditions from my earlier post, so I figured I would procrastinate at work to write up a quick trip report. I apologize in advance for the poor quality of the photos. Briefly about me since this is my first TR (although I'm a long-time lurker), I've been backpacking since childhood on the East Coast and in the Sierra since I moved out here 5 years ago. This past summer my wife and I hiked the JMT, and I have quite a bit of early season snow experience in Desolation Wilderness over the past few years. However, this was my first solo winter backpacking experience.

There was a nice little window in the storm cycle that lined up with a few days off work, so I woke up early in Sacramento on 4/21 and drove down to the Oak Flat entrance of Yosemite. Based on the excellent post on here by Wandering Daisy, I planned to hike up the Yosemite Falls Trail as conditions allowed and spend one night in the wilderness. I was hoping to self-register and hit the trail at first light. Unfortunately the rules have changed. The wilderness permits/signs at the Oak Flat entrance informed me that self-registration permits are only valid for trails in the Oak Flat area, and that winter wilderness permits for trips starting at valley trailheads must be picked up at the Valley Visitor Center during normal business hours (9am-5pm). Snow flurries were falling as I passed the Merced Grove, but the weather started clearing as I entered the valley. With this couple hour delay, I grabbed a coffee at the lodge, watched the sky lighten over El Cap, and did a little reading. Then I grabbed my permit, parked my car, and hit the trail.

The waterfalls were flowing well all around the valley and I got a nice view of Lower Yosemite Falls as I walked to the Yosemite Falls Trailhead. The day hikers were already out in droves, and many folks were surprised to see someone heading out to camp in the snow. The climb out of the valley was actually easier than I remembered, since I had not been on this trail in over 4 years. Maybe I hadn't completely lost my conditioning from the JMT over the winter?

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At about 5000' the trail curves northward and you're rewarded with the first view of Upper Yosemite Falls. This was also the point where the snow began. I had microspikes and trekking poles, which I felt were totally adequate for the conditions. I had decided against carrying an ice axe, and as this was my first solo winter overnight trip, the deal I made with myself was that if anything looked like I might want an ice axe, I was turning around. I was surprised to see quite a few day hikers struggling up the snow-covered trail with nothing more than tennis shoes and not even a day pack or jacket.

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At the top of the upper switchbacks, I followed the snow covered trail to the west of Yosemite Creek using GPS, and then found a nice flat area for snow camping east of that trail. After setting up camp and grabbing a snack, I retraced my steps and went out to the top of Upper Yosemite Falls. As it was turning into late afternoon, the day hikers cleared out and I had the snow covered rim of the valley all to myself. This was the recharging solitude I had come for.

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A thick fog/mist started to roll in, so I went back to my campsite. The snow was quite consolidated and I was fine hiking around in my boots without snow shoes. Warm dinner was great as the temperature started dropping and I settled in for the night. My guess is the temperature was about 20F overnight, but I did not have a thermometer.

In the morning, there were high level clouds around as the next storm system approached, but the views were still quite nice. I spent had a lazy morning drinking coffee and packing up, and then headed back down to the valley the same way I came up. I opted to take the shuttle back from the trailhead to my car since my right knee was twinging a bit. I grabbed a sandwhich at Degnan's kitchen and ate lunch in the El Cap meadow before driving back to Sacramento. Overall, an enjoyable 1 night escape to the woods.

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[Wandering Daisy]

Great trip report. I have hiked up the Yosemite Falls trail many times in winter. It usually is open year round. The first time I did it, I camped at Camp 4 and it was really cold in the morning. Assuming it would be colder as I went up, I did not bring any clothing for warmer conditions. To my surprise it became warmer as I went up. Cold air settles in Yosemite Valley and more often than not it actually is warmer on the rim. Good to see the depth of snow on the rim.

[tgk5007]

Do you think you would have been able to make it to Eagle Creek Meadows if you were out there another night? I'm hoping to go up 4/19 - 4/21 with that itinerary.