.
WHY?
- I use trekking poles generally when traveling over snow, be it with skis or boots, but find them less satisfactory for hiking along summer terrain, instead preferring a staff for nominal 3-season conditions.
- I wanted a mast pole for my pyramid tarp that was adjustable, so I could raise or lower the shelter height to fit the conditions at hand.
- The majority of commercially available staffs are more ultra heavy, than ultra light. And those that are UL do not provide good hand gripping qualities, nor are they adjustable.
This is an easy DYI project that requires several hours spread over a few days to complete, due to epoxy dry times, but a total of only 3 hours of actual activity, including ordering the materials and any clean up.
DESIGN NOTES:
This design includes a collet style clamp to facilitate adjusting staff length. This affords being able to tune the amount of ventilation under my tarp. It also addresses an issue common to all tall staffs: the tendency for them to knock the brim of your hat on steep, uphill trails. I can shorten the staff, so it remains below my hat on trails where this occurs. The range of adjustment possible will depend the lengths of the carbon tubes, and how far up the Lower Shaft Tube is covered by the Scuff Sleeve. The dimension used herein provide for ~9” of length adjustment.
Carbon tubes are engineered to address forces that are directed along the axis of the tube. Some tube designs address cross axial forces and can flex somewhat, versus breaking. In our application we seek tubes that can support back packers’ weight loads, while being able to flex to some degree when subjected to cross axial loads, such as encountered when the tip is jammed in a hole and the staff is bent as it is levered against an adjacent rock. These considerations lead to the tubes we selected. Regardless the tubes selected are robust, they are still relatively brittle, like tempered aluminum, and will snap if flexed beyond their recovery point. (After eleven years of use this has yet to happen to me.)
A velvet textured, shrink fit grip provides a non-slip gripping surface that works wet or dry. The preshrink size of the grip material used here is just under 1” Dia. I used this size because it is what I had on hand from a prior project that used .625” Dia. tubes for the top section of the staff. Shrink wrap grip of this diameter is a very tight fit installing over a .750” Dia tube covered with o-rings. You may want to go up one size for an easier fit.
Adjustable poles make several noises while in use; one is the sound from telescoping pole sections rattling against each other. I added a small piece of shrink tube (Anti-Rattle Shim) to the top end of the Lower Staff Tube, to silence this noise.
TOOLS REQUIRED
The project was completed using basic hand and craft tools. If you own these tools, or their equivalents, you should have no problems fabricating this project.
- Rotary hand tool (e.g. Dremel rotary tool, drill motor, etc).
- Abrasive cut off wheel that fits the chosen rotary hand tool
- Combination square or suitable alternative tool for cutting carbon tube ends
- Scribe tool (or sharp nail)
- Shrink tube heat gun or other heat source to shrink the plastic tubing. I used my kitchen stove.
- Scissor or box knife
- Sanding block or suitable alternative
- Caliper, straight edge, or other device capable of gaging tube diameter size along its length.
MATERIALS:
- Staff Final - Quanty: 1 Ref Get Bit Part# EVABC20
- Staff Grip - Quantity 1 Ref Get Bit Part# HST-.984X39.4-B/R
- Upper Staff Tube .750” Dia X 48” - Quantity 1 Ref Dragon Plate Part# FDPT.75*TTW*48
- Lower Staff Tube .625” Dia X 24” - Quantity 1 Ref Dragon Plate Part# FDPT.625*TTW*24
- Collet – Quantity 1 ref Dragon Plate Part# FDPCK-TELESCOPE-KIT-12
- Staff tip - Quantity 1 (Generic, hardened, hollow, steel sleeve or bushing available at hardware stores) The sleeve OD must match the Lower Staff Tube ID. The sleeve should be about 1 ½” long.
- Grip Knuckles – Quantity 17 (15/16” OD, ¾” ID, faucet o-rings, available at hardware and plumbing supply stores)
- Electrical Shrink Wrap 1.5” Dia. A 18" length is sufficient for fabricating the Anti-Rattle Shim, Adjustment Limit Stop, Scuff Sleeve, and Scuff Collar components (available at hardware and electronics supply stores).
- Epoxy Adhesive – Quantity 1 ref Scotch-Weld 2216 2-part epoxy (available through Dragon Plate)
- Craft Fabric Adhesive (or equivalent, capable of bonding foam and rubber surfaces).
- 220 grit (fine grit) sandpaper
- ¼" dia dowel or or other small diameter implement.
- Masking tape
- Tooth pick or small brush used to apply epoxy adhesive.
- Paper towels
Get Bit Outdoors - https://getbitoutdoors.com Fishing rod components.
Dragon Plate - https://dragonplate.com Structural composite shapes and fabrication materials.
. Refer to the above assembly drawing when following the fabrication instructions (below).
FABRICATION
Upper Staff Tube fabrication
- Square up the end of the Upper Staff Tube, if required. The end of the tube receiving the Collet body must be square as possible to maximize the joint strength and Collet clamping performance. Use a sanding block and 220 grit sand paper, if necessary, to hone the tube end square with the axis of the tube.
- Rough up mating surfaces of the Collet Body and Upper Staff Tube. Temporarily position the Collet Body on the squared up (bottom) end of the Top Staff Tube. Wrap tape around the tube, just above the point the tube protrudes from the Collet Body. The tape will prevent any smeared adhesive from marring the exposed surface of the tube. Remove the Collet Body and sand the portion of the tube previously nested inside the Collet Body. Wrap 220 grit sand paper around a dowel, rough side of sand paper facing out. Insert the sand paper covered dowel into the end of the Collet Body that will mate to the Upper Staff Tube. Sand the mating surface just enough to rough it up.
- Bond the Collet Body to the Upper Staff Tube. Mix the epoxy, per the manufacturer’s instructions, and apply to the Collet Body. Seat the Collet Body onto the end of the tube. There may be some slop in the fit between the Collet and tube. Try to center the Collet Body over the end of the tube.
- Remove excess epoxy adhesive residues. Wipe away excess adhesive that oozes out from the joint before it hardens. Inspect the inner surface of the Collet Body, and wipe off any epoxy found on the surface where the Collet Body contacts the Collet Compression Ring. Wipe away any epoxy clinging to the inner wall of the Upper Staff Tube. Let the adhesive cure, per the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Position o-rings along the length of the tube that is to be covered by the Shrink Wrap Grip. Place the first o‑ring 5” from the top end of the tube, with the remaining o-rings spaced 2”, on center from each other.
- Slide the Shrink Wrap Grip over the top end of the tube and o-rings. Be careful that you do not disturb the positions of the o-rings. Allow the grip to extend 2½“ beyond the bottom o-ring on the shaft.
- Shrink the grip snug to the tube. Start from the Collet end of the tube and work your way to the other end. Work on it in segments, shrinking the grip snug against the tube and adjacent o-rings, before moving on to the next segment and o-rings. Try to impart as little heat to the project as possible, as o-ring life can be shortened by heat, resulting in brittle, crumbling rings. A well-crafted shrink will closely hug the contours of the o-rings.
- Affix the Staff Final. Trim excess heat shrink grip from the end of the Upper Staff Tube, leaving about ¼” extending beyond the tube end. Using a craft fabric glue or similar, flexible adhesive, attach the Staff Final to the top of the tube, covering the end of the Shrink Wrap Grip.
- Rough up surfaces that will receive epoxy adhesive. Wrap 220 grit sand paper around a dowel, rough side of sand paper facing out. Insert the sand paper covered dowel into the end of the tube that will be receiving the Staff Tip, and sand a ½” length of the tube's inside wall where it will contact the Staff Tip. Sand just enough to rough up the surface. Do the same to the ½“ of the Staff Tip's inside wall of the end that will face the ground.
- Wrap the outside of the Lower Staff Tube end with tape. Also wrap tape over the portion of the Staff Sleeve that will protrude from the Lower Staff Tube. The tape will prevent any smeared adhesive from marring the exposed surfaces of these components. Use sand paper to roughen up the outside surface of the Staff Tip not protected by tape.
- Mix the epoxy, per the manufacturer’s instructions, apply to the inside of the Lower Staff Tube, and outside of the Staff Tip. Insert the Staff Tip into the end of the tube, leaving about ½” of the tip extending from the end of the tube.
- Remove excess epoxy adhesive residues. Remove the tape when the epoxy starts setting up. Let the adhesive fully cure, per the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Plug the center of the Staff Tip with a wad of paper towel. Position the plug, so it is about ½” from the business end of the Staff Tip.
- Mix the epoxy, per the manufacturer’s instructions, and fill the center of the Staff Tip with the epoxy so the level of the adhesive is ¼” from the end of the Staff Tip. Let the epoxy cure, per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Above: Bottom end of the Hiking Staff, showing details of the Staff Tip area. Note the epoxy plugging the center of the Shaft Tip is slightly recessed in the tip. The narrow rim of the tip grips terrain very well. The steel tip is hardened, and will last for thousands of miles of use.
. - Install the Scuff Sleeve over the Lower Staff Tube and Staff Tip. Fabricate the Scuff Sleeve from a 12" length of electrical shrink wrap. The shrink wrap should extend past the end of the shaft, slightly covering the Staff Tip. Shrink the sleeve to fit.
- Install the Scuff Collar. Prior to installation, trim the Scuff Sleeve, leaving about ⅜” of the Staff Tip exposed. Slip the Scuff Collar over the Scuff Sleeve, slightly overlapping the end of the Scuff Sleeve where it contacts the Staff Tip. Shrink the collar to fit.
. Above: The image shows the Tip of the Hiking Staff. Note both the Scuff Sleeve and Scuff Collar cover the end of the carbon tube, and a portion of the Staff Tip. Also note the Scuff Collar covers the end of the Scuff Sleeve. Approximately ⅜" of the Staff Tip remains exposed.
. - Slide the Collet Compression Nut over the top end of the tube. Make sure you have the threaded end of the Collet Nut facing the top end of the tube.
- Install the Adjustment Limit Stop and Anti-Rattle Shim. Both of these parts are fabricated using ½” of electrical shrink wrap for each piece. The Adjustment Limit Stop prevents pulling the Lower Shaft Tube out of the Collet. Position this stop so the bottom edge is 3" from the top end of the tube. The resulting overlap of the Upper and Lower Staff Tubes maintained by the Adjustment Limit Stop strengthens the union of these tubes. The Anti-Rattle Shim fills the gap between the Upper Staff Tube ID and the Lower Shaft Tube OD, and dampens any sound generated by the tubes contacting each other. Position the shim flush to the top end of the Lower Shaft Tube. Shrink both the Adjustment Limit Stop and Anti-Rattle Shim with a heat source to secure in place.
- If necessary, de-gloss the outside portion of Lower Shaft Tube, located between the Adjustment Limit Stop and the top end of the Scuff Sleeve. The Collet works by compression and friction, gripping the Lower Shaft Tube with the Collet Compression Ring. You may need to sand the gloss off the outer surface of the Lower Staff Tube to obtain sufficient friction, such that the Collet does not slip when subjected to a heavy load. If you need to dull this surface, chuck the tube in a drill motor or lathe, rotating it as you sand in order to keep the tube close to perfectly round as possible. Avoid sanding into the carbon fibers, as that will weaken the tube, if you get carried away. Check your work often. The sanded portion if the tube should not taper, or if it does taper, the top end of the sanded area should be a smaller OD than the bottom end of the sanded area. Confirm the OD of the sanded area of the tube does not fluctuate back and forth in size along the length of the sanded area. Use a straight edge or calipers for this purpose, or other means to verify work quality.
- Confirm Collet performance. Insert the Lower Staff Tube into the throat of the Collet body, adjust to the desired length, then firmly tighten the Collet Compression Nut. If the joint slips when the staff is weighted, check if the Collet Compression Ring needs to be modified (see notes below).
When the Collet is fully tightened, you should not see any of the Collet Compression Ring poking out of the end of the Collet Compression Nut. If this is what you observe, the thickness of the Collet Compression Ring is too small to engage the sanded portion of the Lower Shaft Tube. This can be remedied by applying several layers of super glue to the outside surface (only) of the Collet Compression Ring, to give it a thicker cross section. Let the glue dry between applications and before reassembling the Collet. One can substitute the Collet mechanism for a cam actuated clamp, also available from the above mentioned vendor. The cam clamp provides a stronger clamping force for those who weigh more than 200 pounds, or just want for-sure-for-sure dependability. I weigh 180#, often shoulder a 65+ pound pack and found the Collet style clamp satisfactory.
I found a staff equal my height (approx. 6’) was optimal for descending trails, as that allows planting the staff out front and well below my position on the trail, affording very stable support when negotiating tall steps and obstacles on the trail. I found a staff of this length to be less than ideal, however, while going uphill, because it had a tendency to knock my hat off my head. I use the Collet to shorten the staff, so it clears my hat brim, when going uphill, as well as to adjust shelter height when used as the mast of my pyramid tarp.
The hand grip covers most of the Upper Staff Tube. This affords optimal hand position on the staff, regardless of obstacles encountered. The o-ring “knuckles” prevent the hiker’s grip from slipping along the staff. You grip the staff much as one grips a golf club, with only the thumb and index finger applying pressure needed to grip the staff. The staff, assembled as described herein, is as light as a single UL trekking pole. Its balance and light weight makes it easy to carry. While some may consider they want to be able to stow the staff when it is not needed, I found carrying it at its balance point, shaft parallel to the ground, you can use it to establish a good, rhythmic arm swinging motion that makes walking feel more efficient. Furthermore I found it provides enough utility to justify keeping it handy when ascending and descending Class 4 XC routes.
If you desire to make this a three piece staff, so it stows in a pack, you will need another Collet and a third tube of a different diameter. The ½” OD carbon tubes are acceptable as a bottom staff segment. You will not have as long of a gripping surface on the upper tube, however. The three piece staff will probably weigh a little more than its two piece cousin.
Assume any changes in the design materials or dimensions most likely will create a cascade of changes required to other dimensions, as well as affect otherwise unrelated performance requirements, such as balance point and swing weight of the staff.
I had access to free carbon tubes, so cannot provide a precise cost estimate, but it probably cost ~$100 at the time it was fabricated in 2012, including the purchase price of carbon tubes.
MAINTENANCE
- Keep the threaded surfaces of the Collet free of foreign mater. I did not find the need to lubricate the thread surfaces of the Collet
- The purpose of Scuff Sleeve and Scuff Collar is to protect the lower end of the carbon fiber tube from damage inflicted by terrain features encountered during use. These items will eventually incur enough wear and tear that they will require replacement in order to continue delivering effective protection. Fortunately shrink wrap tubing is cheap and easy to work with. An area particularly prone to damage is the shoulder created where the Staff Tip exits the Lower Staff Tube. Replacing just the Scuff Collar will usually remedy the situation, as long as a repair intervention occurs before the underlying Scuff Sleeve is also damaged.
