TR: Wind Rivers 2023: trip 4

[Wandering Daisy]

Big Sandy North Loop
August 14-22, 2023

Day1. 8/14/2003. Skull Lake
(10.9 miles, about 8 hours, 1915 feet elevation gain/ 770 feet loss)

It had rained hard enough during the night for a free car wash! I wanted an early start so stuffed the wet car-camping tent in a big garbage bag and threw it in the trunk. I found a parking spot right next to the trailhead! I headed up the trail I had just come down. A somewhat hidden sign marked the Fremont Trail, which was now labeled CDT. I steadily went up the trail quickly passing several fellows carrying huge packs. The trail was mostly shaded as it climbed through a forest marred by dead trees caused by the “2020 Blowdown” of trees already killed by the bark beetle. I reached the top near Divide Lake and took a break. The trail then skirts around a huge wet meadow. Although many hikers use the old trail that goes through the meadow, I suspected it would be full of mosquitoes. Shortly before Dads Lake I nearly got “caught” by the back-cast of a fellow fly-fishing from the trail. He had not yet caught a fish. Both Lakes are popular overnight destination and there were several tents and backpackers. A gentle ascent along a small creek brought me to Marms Lake where I stopped to eat lunch and get water. I spotted fish in the lake and was tempted to try to catch one.

In another hour I reached Washakie Creek. A CDT hiker was going south, a young couple was downstream taking a swim, and several guys were hopping rocks above the horse crossing. Being hot I preferred to wade to cool off my feet. This being my “must reach” point I stopped and considered staying. In retrospect I should have, given the poor fishing at Skull Lake. It was early so I continued up the trail. A friendly young gal horse packer who worked for Big Sandy Lodge was coming back. I met her two more times on this trip.

Skull Lake was like a small city but thankfully there were abundant campsites to accommodate all. I spent nearly half an hour looking for sites, ending up across the outlet on the hill to the west. No other tent was in sight, but I met several people gathering water at the outlet stream. It was late afternoon and I was tired, but spent several hours fishing. Catching fish was not the problem; but every fish was sardine size so I threw them back. I returned to camp where I had solar heated water in the Platypus containers. I hid behind a bush near my tent for a quick warm bath. I then cooked dinner and the wind picked up. I was happy that my foot was normal and I could now hike my usual rate and not limp along.

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Day2. 8/15/2023: Macon Lake
(4.6 miles, about 5 hours, 1465 feet elevation gain/ 980 feet loss)

Although a short distance was planned, I was up at 6AM so that I would have plenty of time to fish when I got to Macon Lake. I left while most others were still asleep or just getting up. After a short backtrack I turned onto the Washakie Pass Trail. The shaded lower part transitioned to alpine terrain as it gradually gained elevation through beautiful meadows and several smaller ponds. The half mile below the pass was steep and rocky with a few switchbacks. On top I met a friendly couple who had day-hiked from Washakie Lake. The snowfield on the east side had mostly melted with only a small distance over soft snow and talus before the trail became distinct and well maintained as it steeply descended to Macon Lake. I planned to camp on the north shores across from the trail that runs along the south shore. Not only is the fishing better, it is secluded.
Regardless of location, campsites were all rocky with little flat ground. Scrub timber and brush also limited choices. I checked out every possible campsite for nearly an hour and landed on the campsite I used last year. While looking on the south shore I contemplated dropping 200 feet to Pass Lake but decided it would be excessively shady and had unknown fishing potential.

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After setting up, and of course, a bath, I started fishing. I had no luck as I fished the little bay below my camp where I caught fish last year. Moving along the shore towards the inlet, at one point, there were the fish! I quickly caught two fat 11-inch brook trout. I snagged another but it got off before I landed it. Continuing down the shore, there were no more fish. I cleaned the fish and then just poked around taking photos. It was windy so cooking the fish was challenging since I needed to simmer them without the wind blowing out the flame. The wind died down just as I started eating and out came the pesky mosquitoes. Just before sunset the lighting was perfect so I hurried to the inlet to get photos. It was a very good day and I slept great.

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[Wandering Daisy]

Day3. 8/16/2023: Goose Lake
(6.8 miles, 7 hours, 1915 feet elevation gain/ 1095 feet loss)



The sky was bright blue and the weather forecast was for a clear but windy day. For several years I have been trying to re-visit the pristine cirque north of Macon Lake. Last year, afternoon storms precluded more than a quick morning day-hiked to the pass for photos. At least I figured out the best route up the pass, which I now quickly reached. From the top of the pass you would not think it was possible to descend the north side. But with every step, a new grassy ramp appeared! First I dropped to Tolar Lake hugging the east hillside since the entire inlet meadow was a willow choked swamp. I was too late for ideal lighting but still got some good photos. Then I dropped my pack and hiked down to the less impressive Chain Lake where lighting was poor for photos. Back at my pack I continued on the ridge west of Rabbit Ears Lake where I camped in 2007.

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There is no perfect way to drop to the inlet to Grave Lake. I simply took one open tunnel through the forest to the next as the slope progressively became steeper. All worked well until one of my paths ended in large blocks of talus which took some effort to get through. Eventually I ran into a game trail and waded, thigh deep and muddy, across the inlet while being harassed by pesky mosquitoes. I stopped at a clearing to the lake shore near several campsites and where I washed off the mud. Missing the use-trail I bushwhacked a bit to reach the Bears Ears Trail and was immediately bombarded by backpackers.

My “must get to” destination for the day was Grave Lake outlet. I waded across Grave Creek which I always do because the log crossings above are sketchy. A group of guys were stuck on the logs, dead ended and going back and forth. I put on my wading shoes, crossed the several braids and put hiking shoes back on before the fellows finally made it off the logs. I do not understand reluctance to wade, and they even had wading shoes!

The wind picked up and the large lake was full of whitecaps. It was still early so I decided to try to make it to Spearpoint Lake. I chose to ascend the steep gully off-trail route to Goose Lake, took one wrong turn and ended up too far left in some exceedingly steep terrain. Then I overshot and had to drop to Goose Lake. I was beat by this time and there was no way I was going to make it over the next pass to Spearpoint Lake. Amazingly, when I put my pack down at the outlet, there were my sunglasses, one lens missing, that I lost four years ago! The entire shore was full of game trails and elk droppings so I chose a site next to a big rock far away from the elk trails so I would not be stepped on during the night! It was a tight setup but worked. Unfortunately Goose Lake had no fish but it was a nice relaxing evening with few mosquitoes.

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[Wandering Daisy]

Day4. 8/17/2023: Loch Leven Lake
(4.0 miles, about 5 hours, 975 feet gain/ 1065 feet loss)

Weather held with blue skies and sunshine in the morning. Getting up to the small pass between Goose and Spearpoint Lake requires finding a path through a forest of wind stunted scrub timber. Again I simply followed tunnels to an upper grassy bench which I traversed a bit before finding a good game trail steeply ascending rocky ledges. The descent to Spearpoint Lake was quick and I hopped rocks along the shoreline to the outlet. I debated if I should drop to the Washakie Trail or head up over the off-trail Spearpoint Pass. I chose the latter and followed a well-used game trail. Mid-shore before going up, I stopped to fish and caught a 14-inch Goldbow. I lucked out picking the location of the fish since it was not the ideal time to fish. I cleaned it, got out my stove and cooked it for an early lunch.

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The use-trail (more of a game trail) continued up the steep hillside, with great views back to the impressive cliffs surrounding Spearpoint and Fracture Lakes. After dropping off the top about 200 feet I ran into a good game trail that headed where I wanted to go. At one point it disappeared but there was a cairn on the forested ridge that marked its continuation down to Loch Leven Lake where I had never been before. There were multiple beautiful campsites. As usual it took me over half an hour to pick my site even though I was the only person at the entire lake. I set up, gathered water and took a bucket bath. It was just a bit after noon.

I then dropped down to Washakie Lake to fish where there were a few people walking up that popular trail. Had I not looped over Macon Lake Pass, Grave Lake and Spearpoint Pass, I could have walked a mile down the trail from Macon Lake to where I now was! The wind was strong so I cast with the wind along the north shores of Washakie Lake with no luck. I dropped to the outlet, crossed on boulders and fished Little Washakie Lake where I caught two nice pan-sized cutthroat trout. I hauled my take back uphill to Loch Leven Lake and fished its shores for about half an hour with no luck. With trees to the shore, Loch Leven was a hard lake to fly fish. I caught tree branches, but no fish.

The wind was getting very strong and luckily I found a sheltered nook where I could cook dinner. Sunset was beautiful and I tried to get some photos but never quite got it right. It was a very good day; I regret taking so few photos. Unusually, there were few others in this very popular area. Now I had to decide how I was going to return. It rained off and on all night.

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Day5. 8/18/2023: Baptiste Bench Ponds
(7.1 miles, about 5 hours, 1225 feet gain/ 2075 feet loss)

As I packed up in the morning I had still not decided if I would go to South Fork Lakes and over Lizard Head Plateau to return via Cirque of the Towers; or zigzag back to Grave and Baptiste Lakes, over Hailey Pass and down the East Fork; or straight up to Illinois and Texas Passes to the Cirque of the Towers. Weather was too threatening to consider Illinois Pass. As I walked down the trail to the Bears Ears junction I toyed with the other two options. The clouds were black and more threatening towards South Fork Lakes so I turned left and returned to Grave Lake and on up to the Baptiste Lake Trail junction, meeting a few other backpackers.

Clouds were building as I turned up the Baptiste Lake Trail. It did not take long to reach the first pond which really was just a wide spot in Baptiste Creek. A grove of trees across the creek had multiple good established campsites. I wanted both a view and shelter; but had to settle for shelter with a short walk to a nearby view. Rain started as I set up the tent. Between rain squalls I tried to catch the small fish in the pond but the wind was too strong. I gave up and instead explored the tree grove. Worried about the weather I did not hike up to Baptiste Lake. I had camped there last year so did not feel I needed to take the chance. I built a small log enclosure for the stove and cooked dinner. Sunset was beautiful with good lighting to photograph the cliffs east of Baptiste Lake. I would have to wait until morning for the light to shine on the impressive northeast face of Mt. Hooker.

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[Wandering Daisy]

Day6. 8/19/2023: East Fork above Lake#5
(5.8 miles, about 6.5 hours, 1455 feet elevation gain/ 1650 feet loss)

After about half an hour photographing sunrise I cooked breakfast and packed up. I hopped rocks across the pond outlet and returned to the Bears Ears Trail. I waded across Baptiste Creek and took photos while I was slowly walking up the trail towards Hailey Pass. The trail ascends steep loose rock and although recently worked on by trail crews, parts had already washed out. The last steep section was a bit unnerving. It was a relief to be on the top. The trail was not immediately visible but soon became distinct as it dropped to Twin Lakes and then adjacent to the creek from the lakes, not exactly following what is shown on the map.

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I left the trail about 200 feet above Mae Lake just before the trail crosses the creek. A use-trail drops to the north shore where I stopped for a snack. Fish were rising; I should have tried to catch some. Then the trail sneaks through timber and crosses the creek from Pyramid Lake before joining the Pyramid Lake Trail. A fellow was fishing the west shores of Mae Lake in the distance. Although scenic I was reluctant to camp at Pyramid Lake because of last year’s mosquito hell. Still early I continued off-trail down to a large grassy meadow and up to the saddle to the East Fork. It took too much time to decide on a campsite, ending up at a compromise location closer to water but not as sheltered as better campsites on the saddle. I set up under a tree on ground that turned out to be anything but flat. A large nearby erratic with a big overhang could serve as a roof for cooking, if needed.

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Then I dropped to the unnamed lake downstream of Lake 10331 (East Fork Lake #5). I filled the platypus containers and debated about a bath, and at the last minute when raindrops began to fall I went for it. I quickly dressed and lugged the heavy water uphill to my campsite as the rain subsided. I put the fly rod together, grabbed my raincoat, dropped back to the lake and started fishing and quickly caught a fair sized (9-inch) brook trout. I got many bites but failed to land more. I then moved up to Lake 10331 and got more nibbles. Back down to the inlet to the lower lake I caught another smaller fish. With an eye on the weather I cleaned the fish and went back to camp. It was too early for dinner so I wandered back up onto the saddle and ridge, finding the really great campsites. Not much later I would regret not moving to them.

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I cooked dinner under the rock roof and just finished when the rain started. I sat under the rock waiting for the rain to stop while watching the black blob down the East Fork advance towards me. Finally I gave up and went into the tent. About 6PM the brunt of the storm hit. The wind hit from a direction not sheltered by the trees. The tent rainfly doors use Velcro closures, a design flaw. The newer TarpTent Notch went back to zippers. The wind was strong enough to start to rip the Velcro apart. I sat in the tent, arms stretched out hanging on to the entry flaps. This lasted for nearly an hour. My back and arms ached. I cussed the tent design and worried about being entirely ripped off my site. The In-Reach had forecast 55 mph gusts. I think it was that if not more. It seemed like payback from the weather gods for not setting up on the better sites. After storm lighting was beautiful! The nearby rock roof was a blessing. I did not get very wet. I caught some fish. Barring an hour, it was a good day.

Day7. 8/20/2023: Dads Lake
(7.5 miles, about 5 hours, 495 feet gain/ 995 feet loss)

I awoke to lingering clouds, dew and unbelievable humidity. It began to drizzle. I moved everything out under my rock roof, cooked breakfast and packed a wet tent. Coincidentally, last year my walk down the East Fork was also a wet journey. The use-trail was overgrown in meadows and at times splits and was hard to follow. Having been there many times at least I knew the route. Off-and-on light rain stopped before I got to the Fremont Trail yet I was soaked thigh-high from several miles of walking through wet vegetation. The use trail basically is gone right before the Fremont Trail, where everyone has gone separate paths. I waded across the knee-deep East Fork and sat down on the pebble bank to eat lunch. The next two miles to Marms Lake was subtly beautiful with little ponds, lush meadows, large trees and wildflowers. Several people were eating lunch at the south end of Marms Lake.

As I dropped to Dads Lake, the trail was full of the weekend backpackers. I found a secluded established campsite on the northwest shore, across from the trail. Although I avoided the crowds, in addition to the lake being very shallow, the shoreline was difficult to fish having many trees that limited back casting and nasty willows to plow through. I had on previous trips successfully fished the south shore with its small cliffs and deeper water which now were being enjoyed by several families swimming and having a jolly time. Their joyful noise really did not bother me and I only wished my side had better fishing. Late afternoon was lovely, I took a bath instead of fish, cooked a feast knowing I was going out. I had set up the tent under a huge tree anticipating another stormy night, which never materialized.

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Day8. 8/21/2023: Big Sandy TH and drive to Fremont Lake Campground
(6.9 miles, about 4 hours, 400 feet gain/ 1080 feet loss)

It was about half a mile to return to the Fremont Trail. Along the trail several groups were illegally camped too close with one fellow’s tent literally on the trail. Here is where there should have been an energetic ranger to shoo them to more appropriate campsites. I was at a loss whether I should lecture them or just pass by quietly, which I did. The walk out was fast, easy and uneventful until nearly out. Three horsemen passed me going up the last steep downhill section when minutes later they came galloping back. A backpacker coming up the trail told me there was an accident ahead; an older fellow had fallen off his horse and hit his head on a rock. When I arrived, the injured man was standing up, head bandaged and a crowd had gathered. Evidently the injured man was part of a group being guided by the three men on the horses that galloped down.

I reached my car and drove over to the campground and took my bucket to the river for a quick bath. I checked the weather forecast on the In-Reach. Afternoon rains were predicted, so I decided to drive out before the horrible road got too wet and muddy. As I was going down a difficult rocky section, two ambulances and a sheriff’s car were slowly creeping up the road, evidently to transport the fellow who fell off his horse. It took me two hours to down the 10 miles to the Lander Cut-Off Road where I turned north towards Pinedale.

As I passed the Boulder RV Park I contemplated buying a $5 shower and do laundry but had so few items needing washing and being Sunday, it would be wiser to get to Fremont Lake Campground before all sites were taken. My favorite campsite#10 was taken by a father and daughter who had also just finished a backpack, so I set up in the less desirable #9 across the road. We both gathered water from the nearby faucet and chucked about our intended stealth baths. I visited and exchanged information on our respective backpacks. The wind was fierce and before I could steak down the tent it blew off the pad like a kite! I set the stove inside the bear box to cook dinner. I pounded in a few more stakes before going in the tent. The usual evening storm rolled in with heavy rain for about an hour. More seam seal bands had peeled off the old car-camping tent and the floor leaked but I managed to stay relatively dry.

[robertseeburger]

Beautiful TR of course.
Mount Hooker and the views are incredible. Grave and Baptiste and Spearpoint... all great destinations for contemplation on future trips.
Sounds like a lot of backpackers in this area though...

[Wandering Daisy]

Several very popular trail loops from Big Sandy, plus the CDT hikers, make these trails heavily used. But I never saw anyone once off the trails. Baptiste is a side trip off the Bears Ears Trail, so not use that much, except by climbers. Fish in Baptiste Lake have over-populated and now are big headed with skinny bodies, so not prize fishery anymore. Most of the shoreline is on the Reservation so another reason a lot of people do not go there.
If you want fewer people on the access trails, go in east side Dickinson Park. Very few people use that entry because you need a Reservation Permit to drive to the FS trailhead.

You can also do a fine loop visiting BOTH the NF Little Wind on the Reservation (where you were this summer) and the SF Little Wind on FS. I think you would really enjoy doing that. You can loop from Dickinson, St. Lawrence, Washakie Park, or Scab Creek; as well as the more crowded Big Sandy.

Just like I would never pass up the more scenic parts of the JMT, I would not pass up the South Fork of the Little Wind River just because trails can get crowded. It is so easy to have plenty of solitude camping and fishing even near popular trails. Many stunning off-trail lakes nearby and good fishing.

Thanks for reading the trip reports. They do not seem to interest many HST members.

[arkheel]

Thanks for posting WD. I hiked this area in 2020 and your trip report makes me want to go back. Such a beautiful area! The Winds are my favorite, so I love reading your trip reports!