Lyell Fork to Valley - where to camp in between?

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Midnight Sun
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Lyell Fork to Valley - where to camp in between?

Post by Midnight Sun »

Hi all,

We will be hiking from Agnew Meadows and camping at Nydiver lakes on night one. We plan to hike over Whitebark pass and then skirt TI Lake, and east to the Lyell Fork Area (I think that is here? 37.70993, -119.31118). We will then hike out via the valley, or (less likely) Tuolumne Meadows.

Does anyone have any ideas on places to camp in between Lyell Fork area and the Valley? Any input is much appreciated.

Thanks,
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Re: Lyell Fork to Valley - where to camp in between?

Post by Wandering Daisy »

What exactly do you mean by "Lyell Fork area" and "The Valley"? A map of your route would be helpful. Or name the pass or passes you plan to go over. Perhaps I missed something, but a coordinate by itself is not that helpful to me.
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Re: Lyell Fork to Valley - where to camp in between?

Post by c9h13no3 »

Yeah, OPs route doesn't make sense, given the Lyell Fork area is west of TI lake.

These posts always confuse me. It's like OP is writing "Hey, I'm not worried about snow conditions or unpleasant cross country travel or mosquitoes, but could you read a map for me and tell me where I'm likely to find a flat spot within a 20 mile stretch of wilderness?"
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Re: Lyell Fork to Valley - where to camp in between?

Post by Midnight Sun »

Hi Wandering Daisy and c9h13no3 - Thanks for your feedback and (in the case of c9h13no3) your vitriol. Apologies that my details were insufficient to enable any helpful advice. I was certainly not trying to be lazy, and did not in any way want you to "read a map" for me. Figuring out routes is one of my favorite parts of backpacking, and I try to do it mostly on my own, but can use a bit of help every now and then. I realize now that I wrote "east to Lyell Fork," when I meant to write "west". Sorry for that. Please allow me a second chance to offer more detail, and if it is still not sufficient please accept my apologies in advance and know that I will keep trying.

We plan to do some form of the following general itinerary:
1. Begin at Agnew Meadows
2. Camp at Nydiver Lakes.
3.Hike over Whitebark Pass and the pass that separates Garnet Lake and Thousand Island Lake. We will possibly camp a night on the WEST end of TI Lake.
4. Head west, past Lake Catherine, and to what I understand is referred to as "Lyell Fork." Camp a night here. I might be mistaken about this area and where it is. I have seen it referred to on these forums with a lot of praise, which is why I'd like to visit there. Please help me understand if I have this wrong. The coordinates in my OP are where I generally understand the praised "Lyell Fork" area to be. And additional guidance on this is much appreciated.
5. Hike west from Lyell Fork, finishing our hike in the Yosemite Valley, i.e., our car will be at Curry Village or thereabouts.

Here is our general route plan:
Image

We are all comfortable with cross country travel, and bugs, and snow. We did this route last year up to Lake Catherine, and turned around there. So we are familiar with everything up to that point.

I am seeking any input on where one might find a nice camp in between Lyell Fork area and Curry Village.

Thanks
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Re: Lyell Fork to Valley - where to camp in between?

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Your route is the SHR from Lake Catherine- The route to Twin Island Lakes is tricky. There is limited camping at the upper Lake. If you follow the inlet of the lower Lake up a bit there is another lake (the large more western one without an elevation shown on the USGS 7.5-min map) that has good camping. It looks like you will be going over Old Bones Pass. I prefer to camp lower in the Lyell Fork at the north end of Lake 10217 where there are sites in timber and grassy spots. More sites on the west shore, but pretty lumpy. The upper lakes are quite stark and exposed. I was up there in early summer a few years back, and campsites tend to be soggy. Once you drop into the meandering valley of the Lyell Fork stay on the north side. There are lots of campsites along the edge of the meadows. But they can have mosquitoes if the meadows are still wet. There are limited water sources on the trail that heads north with the last stream before you drop to Lewis Creek usually is flowing. Some of the smaller creeks dry up later in the season. I would not camp at the Merced Lake campground- it is crowded and poor view. Echo Valley has lots of camping if not the most scenic. Camping just across the two footbridges above Bunnell Falls. LYV campground is also crowded once the Half Dome Cables go up. Last legal camping is at LYV. Not sure if you need a special permit for LYV campground.

Once you get into the Lyell Fork there are plenty of camping possibilities. I do not think you have to worry much about finding one. From Lake 10217 you drop off a bench that is tricky to find a good way down. It is pretty cliffy. The waterfall is impressive.

I have never been over Old Bones Pass but I think the north side is a bit difficult. If the weather is unstable, you would be better off going over the easier Forrester Pass to the trail and then down on the trail to the Lyell Fork. Blue Lake has wonderful camping. Getting from the Twin Island Lakes to Blue Lake is also tricky but I think a few cairns and use-trails have popped up since I did it years ago.

There are several trip reports on this area. Do a search on "Blue Lake" or "Forrester Pass" or "Twin Island Lakes" or any other named feature on your route. Here are two of mine.

viewtopic.php?p=168744#p168744

viewtopic.php?t=21956
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Re: Lyell Fork to Valley - where to camp in between?

Post by Midnight Sun »

Wandering Daisy - thank you! This is very helpful. Thanks especially for the tip about Old Bones pass being tricky and Forrester Pass being a potentially better option.

I forgot to mention that we will be hiking around September 20th, so do not expect to encounter mosquitos. But dried water sources will be something to consider.
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Re: Lyell Fork to Valley - where to camp in between?

Post by Wandering Daisy »

I have never been over Old Bones Pass so that comment was simply based on viewing the pass from both sides; from the south side when I considered going over it and from the North Side when camped at one of the higher Lakes on the upper Lyell Fork. Perhaps someone who has actually gone over the pass can comment on it.

Not that I recommend this unless your group has experience on exposed slabs, but I have dropped directly down the Lyell Fork from the upper trail in late season. I thought it was really fun, but then I have done extensive rock climbing including lots of slab climbs in Tuolumne. I cannot remember if I had to cross the creek on the way down, but that is likely. The flow must be quite low to do this route and if your route-finding is not good you can end up bushwhacking. You also must be careful not to get on water-polished slabs. You end up a mile or so above Washburn Lake and then it is a quick walk down the trail to Merced Lake.
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Re: Lyell Fork to Valley - where to camp in between?

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Regarding dropping down the Lyell Fork from the trail, this is what it looks like. It is a bit steep than it looks in places. The main requirement is that there is low enough flow that you can cross the creek to detour steep rock and brush.
3374_Lyell Fork descent to WashburnL.jpg
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Re: Lyell Fork to Valley - where to camp in between?

Post by Harlen »

Mignight Sun,

What a brilliant route! I too am dead keen to get into the Lyell Fork of the Merced. If Old Bones Pass is sketchy, as WD opines, we too love the Foerster Pass option, if only to visit Blue Lakes again. If you go that route, then you will cross the narrow ridge that runs NW from Mt. Foerster, about 1.5 mi. from the pass. I have only sat on it, gazing longingly into the Lyell Fork Basin. I did check it for crossing feasibilty, and it would go pretty easily at class 2, with some routefinding challenge to keep it at class 2. After that, your'e in God's country, and I hope you guys have a great time.

Check out this wild, solid quartz hill you'll pass between F. Pass, and that ridge crossing:


267.jpg



And here are a few shots from that narrow ridge looking into the Lyell Fork:

272.jpg
Obviously, this is not the preferred route down; that was behind me a few 100 meters away.


275.jpg
Here I am perched in an even worse looking place to cross. I just climbed up there for a better view into the Lyell fork. It is much easier further west down this ridge. Mt. Rodgers in the distance has another questionable pass leading into that magic area. Never done it, and I think it has a long, loose, skree slope on one side of it. Good luck, and thanks for putting this route challenge up to us.
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Re: Lyell Fork to Valley - where to camp in between?

Post by Harlen »

Sorry, I see now that your question was about camping spots along your way to the Valley. I try to choose camps for the views, and on your way west from below the Lyel Fork, I think a fine place would be in an open spot on the terrace below Florence Peak. You'll have a great sunrise view of the Clark Range from there. i see a seeming opening and likely many flats where the high trail meets the creek that lies to the west of Florence Peak. After that, I know that there are nice creekside flats in the canyon below Mered Lake, if that fits your day's travel. Here's a look at one of those spots:.... Sorry, I'm out of town and can't access my images from here. They can be seen in my Trip Report Trip Report: A Cold, Quiet Merced Circle.

I looked at the camping spots I used, and I like best the view from the outlet end of Lake Merced. [In tht TR, photo # 13 shows the view east from Merced Lk., and #12 shows the creek camp I used, a bir below Merced Lake-- it's marked on the map I made.] Also, there is a really beautiful viewpoint area near the end of the JMT trail, just a bit before it drops down toward Happy Isles TH. You get a great view of Mt. Broderick and Halfdome from there. I don't think there is water [*photo #8 shows the view.]

Have a great trip.
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