TR: Canadian Rockies, Banff - Mount Assiniboine, 9/2 - 9/7 -2022

[Harlen]

Inspired by Cameron's trip report from the Pyrenees, I got to work on our summer travels in Canada.

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Marvel Lake, with Eon Mountain in the distance.


I often choose travel destinations by first gazing into photos.  The Canadian Rockies have an isolated peak named Mount Assiniboine, which is also known as "The Matterhorn of the Rockies." 

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Mount Assiniboine from Lake Magog.

The images we saw were truly inspiring, so that became one of our goals-- to see that mountain up close, and perhaps for me to climb it. 

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  Assiniboine is 3618 meters, or 11,870 feet. Yet its vertical rise from the lake below is 6,620'! The shadowed north face is rated just 5.5; the sunlit east face is 5.9.

Another area that jumped out at us from the photos was the Columbia Icefield, and the Athabasca Glacier that flows down from it.  Moraine, Peyto, and Maligne Lakes were recommended as "must see" sights, and locals we met gave us Parker Ridge/N.Saskatchewan Glacier; Wilcox Peak and Ridge, and Sentinel Pass as fine day hikes and climbs.   [I will include some images and descriptions of those places too in a subsequent trip report.] 


One of the places we reached in a day:

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The view west of Mount Athabasca, and the Columbia Icefield from near the summit of Wilcox Peak. And below, a Rocky Mountain Bighorn from Wilcox Ridge.

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We looked into the rules and regs. for Banff and Jasper National Parks, and found to our surprise that dogs were allowed.  Mt. Assiniboine is located in Mt Assiniboine Provincial Park (PP) within Banff, but our entry point would be from the east, at Shark Mountain TH, in Spray Valley PP, near the very southern boundary of Banff.  There are a lot of complicated regulations, but we hung on the words of the staff person that sold us the Park pass, who said, "Of course you can bivouac, (i.e., choose your own backcountry camp), if you are on a climbing route, or traveling off trail."   Later, inside Banff, we saw a sign which stated that backcountry camping is only allowed under exceptional circumstances.  Campgrounds are numbered, as are each of the campsites within them, and the general rule is to arrange for your campsites in advance, and stick to a well-planned route.   

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Our original plan was head up Bryant Creek, and branch off at Marvel Lake, to reach turquoise "Gloria Lake," an off-trail lake at the foot of Mt. Assiniboine, and hike and climb out from there.  Not the famous Peyto Lake seen here, Gloria is a much smaller, alpine lake with this same magical color.  Instead, we spent our five nights above Wonder Pass, and at backcountry camps on lake and river terraces. 

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View south from Wonder Pass, to the mountains of the "Blue Range." 


We completed a circle back to Bryant Creek by crossing Assiniboine Pass.  Total trip miles, including our day hikes was 52 miles.  Our dogs were leashed, as this area was excellent habitat for Grizzly Bears, and their signs were very evident: 

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This 5 foot long scat is composed of buffalo berries, and berry-laden bushes often lined our trails along Bryant Creek.  In fact, our route skirted two "bear closure" areas. Therein, from Aug. 1 till Sept. 30, hikers must be in groups of 4 or more, horse travelers 2 or more, and no dogs are allowed in.  Good rules to protect both people and Bears.   We saw no Bears on this backpacking trip, but lucked out later in another part of Banff, where we saw a Momma Grizzly and her cub.  We did see one big Mountain Goat on the cliffs, and Marmots, Squirrels, Chipmunks and one tremendous bull Moose.  The best bird watching was closeup viewing of a Dipper, working the stream by our camp, and soaring Redtail Hawks, and great views of whole families of Grouse! 

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It was a great trip, with perfect weather, save for a bit of smoke haze.  The Canadian Rockies are different enough from our own southerly Rocky Mountains to fascinate us, and to give us that wonderful feeling that we were traveling again, though still on our own continent of North America.  The mountains are hung with so much more glacier ice, and the lakes below are so wildly colored-- distinct from the lakes I've seen in our Rockies, except for some in Glacier N.P. The geology is fantastical, with wildly tilted, older shale, slate and limestone strata thrust over much younger layers.  The forests had the familiar Lodgepole pines, and the Engleman spruce we've seen in the Colorado Rockies, but also, Larch trees, which I hadn't seen since Alaska.  Overall, the floral landscape had a more northerly feel, akin to the tundra regions of the Yukon, and the Alaska Range.  The Bow; Brazeau; and North Saskatchewan Rivers wind a course through massive glacier carved valleys.  In the flats, they can separate into many braided channels a quarter mile wide! 

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The animals we saw might all be seen in our northern Rocky Mountains, but we had hoped to view the rare Woodland Caribou, and herds of Elk, often seen up in Jasper. 

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Giant Bighorn Ram. The Rocky Mtn. Bighorn subspecies outweigh the Sierra subspecies by a LOT!

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Yes, that's a Momma Grizzly, with this year's cub racing up to play with her!

[Harlen]

The images below are the scenes from our 6 day backpacking trip into southern Banff National Park:

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Sunrise on our first morning.

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Marvel Lake.

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Climbing toward Wonder Pass.

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Wonder Pass.

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"The Towers" above Wonder Pass, with Mountain Avens flowers.

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I've heard this flower called "Tina Turner Flowers," after her hairstyle.

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These are, in fact, another kind of "hairy style" -- part of these feathery blond seedheads, with the "style" (a botany term) persisting, and attached to each seed to aid in wind-dispersal.

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Lizzie walking down from the pass into a larch forest, and a bit of smoke haze.

[Harlen]

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Larch.

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Larch are one of the rare deciduous conifers. The needles turn golden yellow in the fall.

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Gog Lake.

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Lizzie spotted a big Mountain Goat above the lake.  You can find it at the foot of the cliff, at the bottom, center of the frame. It is right above the word "it." (click to expand image)

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You can find me in my wildest dreams, at the top of that pinnacle!

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We found our way to Lake Magog, with its amazing view of Mount Assiniboine.

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It's a great feeling to walk into the very mountain scene you had hoped to find.

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On the way to a quiet camp under Sunburst Peak.

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Cerulean Lake.

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We made our camp in the forest here, beneath the mountain wall.

[Harlen]

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On the fireweed trail.  We decided to make a circular trip by exiting via Assiniboine Pass.  This route first took us back to the Lake Magog scenic climax-- the view of Mt Assiniboine from the lakeshore.

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Looks like great Moose habitat.

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Moose can eat 40 lbs. of willow per day!

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There he is!  Never seen such a lustrous coat of fur.

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Upper arm of Bryant Creek, with Og Pass up there.  Off limits to us, as a Grizzly Bear Closure area.  Our trail skirted the very edge of that area, and we met some hikers who had heard of a group who had pepper-sprayed a Grizzly a day before, on the same trail! I suppose it was an aggressive Bear. Me, I'd just talk nicely to it, and maybe give him a pet to calm him down.

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Fresh Bear scat!

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Do you suppose these Grouse will eat the berries from the Bear scat?

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As for the big Bull Moose, we got to watch him float through the willows, and then melt into the forest. 

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Heading down Bryant Creek we got a view of a very steep mountain, and figured it for Birdwood Peak.  Later on, we learned that it may be the single sharpest mountain in Banff, and now I really want to get back up there, to find the best views of Birdwood Pk.  [If you do a search of that peak, you'll see why.]

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[Harlen]

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We scrambled up one last hill to this vantage point. It's a view back at where we've been.

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Happiness on the last day of a successful trip

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Weather arrives just as we depart.

[Wandering Daisy]

Given the fires I am surprised you missed the smoke. You were very lucky. Last time we went to Banff to Jasper it was smokey. I recall trips I did in the late 1960's when the air was crystal-clear so I was disappointed; Dave had never been so he thought it was still spectacular. Guess I am just spoiled. We also got a lot of rain on our trip, which was no big deal since we were in a trailer. We drove back through the Selkirks down to Nelson BC. That is another area with great scenery and long lakes (actually dams on the Columbia). The Revelstoke area (Mt Robson) is a great trip too. I love the Canadian Rockes and BC Interior Ranges. When we were there a minimum of 4 adults were required to get on some trails that were known for grizzly activity. Is that still the case?

[Harlen]

Wandering Daisy wrote:

Given the fires I am surprised you missed the smoke. You were very lucky. Last time we went to Banff to Jasper it was smokey. I recall trips I did in the late 1960's when the air was crystal-clear so I was disappointed; Dave had never been so he thought it was still spectacular. Guess I am just spoiled. We also got a lot of rain on our trip, which was no big deal since we were in a trailer. We drove back through the Selkirks down to Nelson BC. That is another area with great scenery and long lakes (actually dams on the Columbia). The Revelstoke area (Mt Robson) is a great trip too. I love the Canadian Rockies and BC Interior Ranges. When we were there a minimum of 4 adults were required to get on some trails that were known for grizzly activity. Is that still the case?

Under the first big long Bear splat, I wrote this:

...In fact, our route skirted two "bear closure" areas. Therein, from Aug. 1 till Sept. 30, hikers must be in groups of 4 or more, horse travelers 2 or more, and no dogs are allowed in. Good rules to protect both people and Bears.

Our map had some of these Bear Closure areas delineated, so that must mean they are managed that way every year. I would guess that they can add new Closure areas as needed. (Daisy, had you read our TR more carefully you would have also learned that you can pet an angry Grizzly, to pacify it. *

*only try this with Bears on the television screen.

[robertseeburger]

Amazing TR Harlen.
I have always wanted to backpack in this area..and I consider Mount Assiniboin one of the most amazing mountains in North America..
Just haven't figured out how to prioritize.

I love the shots of Mount Assiniboin over Lake Magog..

But I also have a new mountain on my list.. Eon Mountain.. wow.

Thanks!

[Wandering Daisy]

Next time I run across a grizzly I will give it a bit hug.

[c9h13no3]

Sorry Colorado, your Rockies are the worst Rockies.

Awesome report. Definitely the quality scenery I've come to expect from this region!