Elkhart CCW Fishing Loop
August 23-30, 2023
(Mileages below include fishing and day-hikes)
8/22/2023: Day off at Fremont Campground
Awaking again to a soaked tent, undecided on what to do next, and still quite disorganized, I decided to stay another night. I left the tent to dry, laid out water to solar heat, paid for another night and headed to the library to recharge all my electronics while getting weather and news. I bought a fuel canister and some zucchini; real eggs, milk and bananas for breakfast before returning. At camp I washed and hung clothes to dry before taking out the packet of trip plans and maps. The three routes I really wanted to do were too remote and difficult to consider solo with the ongoing unsettled weather. I settled on a mellow fishing trip from Elkhart Trailhead. I dumped the contents of the remaining bear can on the picnic table and found an 8-day ration less one breakfast, but trail food would do just fine. One medium gas can was enough to cook fish if I had cold drinks for dinner. I must have had too many beers because I ended up with 9 days food, sans two breakfasts! A hair wash with solar heated water and phone calls to family ended this relaxed day off.
Day1. 8/23/2003. Elkhart TH to Pole Creek Lake
(9.4 miles, about 6 hours, 1285 feet elevation gain/ 885 feet loss)
It rained again at night. Not wanting to wait for the car-camping tent to dry, I again dumped the wet tent in a large garbage bag and tossed it into the trunk. My backpack was in the front seat and ready to go as I left the campground, heading for the trailhead about 10 miles up the road. Construction on the access road delayed me for about 15 minutes. I started up the trail which was pretty empty early in the morning. Resting at the Miller Lake junction a few backpackers were coming out. A few others were also resting at Photographers Point enjoying the view, which was unusually clear after the night’s rain. I reached my “must-get-to” destination, Ecklund Lake at noon. The lake was beautiful and most had left; I was really tempted to stop. The question was, would fishing be better here or down at Pole Creek Lake? Pole Creek won with the additional fact that I had never camped there; I am always looking for something new.
Pinedale has become a standard CDT resupply and rather than repeat the miles back to Little Seneca Lake, some thru-hikers take the Pole Creek Trail to intersect the CDT below Bald Mountain Basin. Several passed me including a tall bearded fellow in a blue plaid kilt. I soon caught up as the CDE folks had stopped for lunch at Marys Lake. I stopped a bit farther down the trail for my lunch as the CDT hikers passed. We met again at a small lake further down. Shortly I met a packer leading two loaded horses and a fellow behind walking his riding horse. Once down to the trail junction at Pole Creek the northbound Highline Trail continues upstream along Pole Creek. I turned downstream on southbound Highline Trail reaching the lower crossing in about half a mile. Taking off the pack, I noticed one Crock was missing. I had no idea of where I lost it and decided to just let it go. The likelihood of finding it was low and wading shoes are nice but not necessary.
The streambed was lined with sharp cobbles and no way was I going to wade bare-footed. I put the remaining Crock on one foot and my hiking shoe sans insole on the other. Once across, I dropped my pack at the large established horse camp and spent over half an hour looking for a campsite. The nicest site was further along the south shores of Pole Creek Lake but fresh horse poo upwind precluded that! I ended up near the inlet at a less horsy site, set up. Although I could fish from my campsite, I walked to the horsy site and fished back to my campsite and upstream a bit. No luck, not a bite, not a rise. Another try later in the afternoon from the rock benches on the shore next to my site also produced no fish. Just at dusk, while in the tent I heard what I though could be a bear, got out my bear spray, and a fellow walked through my site, fishing rod in hand. He quickly said “sorry” and left.
Day2. 8/24/2023: Middle Chain Lake
(4.2 miles, about 6 hours, 290 feet elevation gain/ 175 feet loss)
Come morning, the tent was wet with dew and still in the shade. I cooked breakfast, with no hurry since I planned a very short day. Smoke curled up into the air so I wandered over to the established camp where a group of guys were sitting there around a fire. One of the fellows was the one who wandered through my camp the night before; he also had no luck fishing. Evidently they were aiming for the upstream crossing of Pole Creek but it was late enough when they figured out they were instead at the lower crossing, they just set up their tents. I cannot believe that one fellow waded across in bare feet! Ouch!
I packed up and continued south on the Highline Trail in a beautiful lush little valley with a creek. As I walked along the lower Chain Lake it looked like fine fishing. I dropped my pack at the Bell Lake Trail junction and found a campsite above the shores of Middle Chain Lake. It too had been used by horse campers but at least not recently and smelled fine.
I spent the rest of the day fishing. The lake shores are perfect for fly casting but it was windy and the fish were staying deep. I spotted a fisherman on the other side of the lake and found that there was a rock-hop across the outlet. I went over to that side where I at least got a few bites. I either caught a big fish or snagged the fly on rocks, but I swear the line pulled and then the fly broke off. I had lost my last “mosquito” fly. I put on another brownish fly that I did not realize was barbless. I got bites but landed no fish.
While eating lunch other CDT hikers passed by. They are easy to recognize from their tiny packs. Then I walked the Highline Trail south to the end of the Lower Chain Lake with plans to fish nearby Spruce Lake but it was not clear how to get there. Somehow the map needed for the Chain Lake area never made it into my pack; perhaps a bit too much beer consumed while packing. Again I saw the other fisherman in the distance across the lake. The lower lake was difficult to fly fish but it was a pleasant day-hike.
I made one more attempt to catch a fish and hiked north on the trail about half a mile to fish deeper water off low cliffs. I slipped on a rock, kept hold of the pole but hit the rock with my elbow and arm. The pole was saved but my arm bloodied and bruised. I put on a bandage and decided that I needed to change the fly. Taking out the flies, the wind blew half of them over the grass. It was not going well. I gave up and went back to camp to cook dinner and photograph the stunning sunset. I saw that two backpackers had set up in the distance on the other side of the trail. In spite of not catching fish enjoyed the Chain Lakes. The weather was perfect all day.
TR: Wind Rivers 5 Elkhart loop
-
Wandering Daisy
- Topix Docent
- Posts: 6689
- Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:19 pm
- Experience: N/A
- Location: Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento area)
- Contact:
TR: Wind Rivers 5 Elkhart loop
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
Wandering Daisy
- Topix Docent
- Posts: 6689
- Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:19 pm
- Experience: N/A
- Location: Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento area)
- Contact:
Re: TR: Wind Rivers 5 Elkhart loop
Day3. 8/25/2023: Spider Lake (Bald Mountain Basin)
(6.0 miles, about 7 hours, 1405 feet elevation gain/ 725 feet loss)
The In-Reach weather forecast showed rain starting at noon. It was only about two miles to the Baldy Lakes which I surely could reach before the rain. If the rain held off I could get over the pass to Bald Mountain Basin, with its numerous small lakes and larger Spider Lake where I had caught fish before and a stunning view of Angel Pass and the Continental Divide. Later I learned that Baldy Lakes actually had better fishing.
I turned up the Bell Mountain Trail that progressively deteriorated with deadfall and overgrown meadows. Finding the trail was a challenge and I had to backtrack a few times. Once I got to the South Baldy Lake junction with a trail sign I was on my maps. It was now a race to beat the storm and I did not stop for rests. There were plenty of campsites but weather held so I kept going. The lakeside terrain was swampy before it steeply ascended to the “North” Baldy trail junction with the Fremont Trail. I kept an eye on potential campsites and water sources in case the weather worsened. Two CDT hikers were coming down in shorts and tank tops which was a good sign that the storm had not yet reached Bald Mountain Basin.
From the pass the trail traversed high before dropping with good views of the lakes. I chose the shortest direct off-trail route to Spider Lake which worked quite well. As I reached the outlet the weather became more threatening. A couple were setting up where I had hoped to camp at Spider Lake so I went downstream a short distance and found a good site in a clump of trees next to the first outlet pond. I set up and light rain started.
I fished the outlet pond and got a few bites. The rain let up and I went up to where the couple camped and fished Spider Lake. They too were fishing. Neither of us had any luck but said in the past they caught many fish here, as I also had in the past. They recommended Baldy Lakes, but it was too late for that suggestion. They also had poor luck when at Chain Lakes.
I returned to camp and fished a lower outlet pond and caught a small but fat brook trout. I then dropped about half a mile down to Lake 10442 (Pole Creek Lake #9) and fished the inlet without luck. Rain started and I hiked back to camp with a short stop at the lower outlet pond where I caught a smaller fish. I started cooking dinner hunkered under a tree. I stayed dry for a while but soon had to tunnel under another clump of tree to eat dinner. Just as I finished dinner it began to rain hard. I dove into the tent. The rain let up just at sunset and I took a photo out the door of the tent.
Day4. 8/26/2023: Tommy Lake
(5.0 miles, about 5 hours, 1045 feet gain/ 1025 feet loss)
I was always curious if one could drop directly down the creek that flowed from Lake 10442 to the trail at Lower Cook Lake. I had already figured out the day before how to get to Lake 10442. The steep drop the next half mile was over complex terrain with avoiding bushwhacking the main challenge. I slowly descended on disconnected game trails to a small lake with a swampy shore. The last short 150-foot drop to the trail was the most difficult. Once to the trail getting across the creek was confusing. All in all, this shortcut was hardly worth the effort. A better route is to walk north from Lake 10442, past several smaller lakes and descend directly to Upper Cook Lake.
After another half mile from Lower Cook Lake, the trail reaches Upper Cook Lake. I stopped for a snack and dried my pants and socks that got soaked on my little short-cut adventure. I had planned to camp on the mid-northeast shore of Upper Cook Lake and fish the inlet from Wall Lake; then next day continue off-trail to Island Lake via Wall Lake. I had done that route last year and decided to remain on west side of the lake where a trail continued to outlet of Upper Cook Lake. I had caught a big fish there last year. It was still early in the day and since rain was predicted to start about noon the next day, camping closer to Lester Pass would be wise. Tommy Lake would be perfect requiring only a few hours to get over the pass.
I hopped rocks across the outlet of Upper Cook Lake and the trail gradually climbed above the shores of Lower Cook Lake which looked good for fishing, but it was not the right time of the day. The trail then dropped to the Highline Trail where it heads north to Peter Lake. I stopped for lunch and fished for about half an hour without luck. After a 400-foot steady climb I was at Tommy Lake. I first went to an established site on the west shore but it had fresh horse poo. Ugh! Returning to the outlet, I crossed and found a great campsite on the south shore, nestled in trees. I fished where I could back cast given the surrounding trees. Frustratingly, I caught two nice Golden Trout only to have them fall off the hook inches from the shore. I was frustrated and cussed the barbless hook having run out of all the barbed ones. I cooked a fishless dinner and clouds built. It did not rain hard, but the wind sure howled through the trees all night. Amazingly only a nice breeze blew at my tent.
(6.0 miles, about 7 hours, 1405 feet elevation gain/ 725 feet loss)
The In-Reach weather forecast showed rain starting at noon. It was only about two miles to the Baldy Lakes which I surely could reach before the rain. If the rain held off I could get over the pass to Bald Mountain Basin, with its numerous small lakes and larger Spider Lake where I had caught fish before and a stunning view of Angel Pass and the Continental Divide. Later I learned that Baldy Lakes actually had better fishing.
I turned up the Bell Mountain Trail that progressively deteriorated with deadfall and overgrown meadows. Finding the trail was a challenge and I had to backtrack a few times. Once I got to the South Baldy Lake junction with a trail sign I was on my maps. It was now a race to beat the storm and I did not stop for rests. There were plenty of campsites but weather held so I kept going. The lakeside terrain was swampy before it steeply ascended to the “North” Baldy trail junction with the Fremont Trail. I kept an eye on potential campsites and water sources in case the weather worsened. Two CDT hikers were coming down in shorts and tank tops which was a good sign that the storm had not yet reached Bald Mountain Basin.
From the pass the trail traversed high before dropping with good views of the lakes. I chose the shortest direct off-trail route to Spider Lake which worked quite well. As I reached the outlet the weather became more threatening. A couple were setting up where I had hoped to camp at Spider Lake so I went downstream a short distance and found a good site in a clump of trees next to the first outlet pond. I set up and light rain started.
I fished the outlet pond and got a few bites. The rain let up and I went up to where the couple camped and fished Spider Lake. They too were fishing. Neither of us had any luck but said in the past they caught many fish here, as I also had in the past. They recommended Baldy Lakes, but it was too late for that suggestion. They also had poor luck when at Chain Lakes.
I returned to camp and fished a lower outlet pond and caught a small but fat brook trout. I then dropped about half a mile down to Lake 10442 (Pole Creek Lake #9) and fished the inlet without luck. Rain started and I hiked back to camp with a short stop at the lower outlet pond where I caught a smaller fish. I started cooking dinner hunkered under a tree. I stayed dry for a while but soon had to tunnel under another clump of tree to eat dinner. Just as I finished dinner it began to rain hard. I dove into the tent. The rain let up just at sunset and I took a photo out the door of the tent.
Day4. 8/26/2023: Tommy Lake
(5.0 miles, about 5 hours, 1045 feet gain/ 1025 feet loss)
I was always curious if one could drop directly down the creek that flowed from Lake 10442 to the trail at Lower Cook Lake. I had already figured out the day before how to get to Lake 10442. The steep drop the next half mile was over complex terrain with avoiding bushwhacking the main challenge. I slowly descended on disconnected game trails to a small lake with a swampy shore. The last short 150-foot drop to the trail was the most difficult. Once to the trail getting across the creek was confusing. All in all, this shortcut was hardly worth the effort. A better route is to walk north from Lake 10442, past several smaller lakes and descend directly to Upper Cook Lake.
After another half mile from Lower Cook Lake, the trail reaches Upper Cook Lake. I stopped for a snack and dried my pants and socks that got soaked on my little short-cut adventure. I had planned to camp on the mid-northeast shore of Upper Cook Lake and fish the inlet from Wall Lake; then next day continue off-trail to Island Lake via Wall Lake. I had done that route last year and decided to remain on west side of the lake where a trail continued to outlet of Upper Cook Lake. I had caught a big fish there last year. It was still early in the day and since rain was predicted to start about noon the next day, camping closer to Lester Pass would be wise. Tommy Lake would be perfect requiring only a few hours to get over the pass.
I hopped rocks across the outlet of Upper Cook Lake and the trail gradually climbed above the shores of Lower Cook Lake which looked good for fishing, but it was not the right time of the day. The trail then dropped to the Highline Trail where it heads north to Peter Lake. I stopped for lunch and fished for about half an hour without luck. After a 400-foot steady climb I was at Tommy Lake. I first went to an established site on the west shore but it had fresh horse poo. Ugh! Returning to the outlet, I crossed and found a great campsite on the south shore, nestled in trees. I fished where I could back cast given the surrounding trees. Frustratingly, I caught two nice Golden Trout only to have them fall off the hook inches from the shore. I was frustrated and cussed the barbless hook having run out of all the barbed ones. I cooked a fishless dinner and clouds built. It did not rain hard, but the wind sure howled through the trees all night. Amazingly only a nice breeze blew at my tent.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
Wandering Daisy
- Topix Docent
- Posts: 6689
- Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:19 pm
- Experience: N/A
- Location: Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento area)
- Contact:
Re: TR: Wind Rivers 5 Elkhart loop
Photos Day 4 (continued)
Day5. 8/27/2023: Seneca Lake
(4.3 miles, about 4 hours, 695 feet gain/ 860 feet loss)
Sunlight hit the tent early. After breakfast I wiped remaining dew off the tent and left in hopes of beating the storm over the pass. The Tommy Lake side had puffy clouds with sunlight but from Lester Pass the view north was black. About 9:30 the rain began and I hardly had time to put on my rain jacket. Immediately it became a downpour. Water ran down between the pack and the jacket. Other backpackers walked ahead of me and the trail became a river. A few tents remained along the trail where the wiser backpackers stayed put.
I along with others, turned towards Seneca Lake. The rain finally let up a bit. There were no sites near the lake that had shelter. Finally I found tight site in a clump of trees above the lake and trail. A tree root uncomfortably ran across the floor of the tent. When the sun finally came out I dried wet clothing and my pack while re-positioning the tent off the root. Nobody could see me from below but I could see down at others camped in the grass out in the open. By late afternoon with everything dry I found a use-rail that dropped to the shore at a promising cove. There were a few bites and rises but I did not catch fish. Walking north along the shore I ended up back at the trail below my site.
After dinner I scouted the Lost Lake trail junction thinking that I should drop to Lost Lake then next day where there were plenty of campsites in the trees. Then I walked around taking sunset photos and chatted with a fellow who had come through the rain from Titcomb Basin where the rain started before he even got up.
Day5. 8/27/2023: Seneca Lake
(4.3 miles, about 4 hours, 695 feet gain/ 860 feet loss)
Sunlight hit the tent early. After breakfast I wiped remaining dew off the tent and left in hopes of beating the storm over the pass. The Tommy Lake side had puffy clouds with sunlight but from Lester Pass the view north was black. About 9:30 the rain began and I hardly had time to put on my rain jacket. Immediately it became a downpour. Water ran down between the pack and the jacket. Other backpackers walked ahead of me and the trail became a river. A few tents remained along the trail where the wiser backpackers stayed put.
I along with others, turned towards Seneca Lake. The rain finally let up a bit. There were no sites near the lake that had shelter. Finally I found tight site in a clump of trees above the lake and trail. A tree root uncomfortably ran across the floor of the tent. When the sun finally came out I dried wet clothing and my pack while re-positioning the tent off the root. Nobody could see me from below but I could see down at others camped in the grass out in the open. By late afternoon with everything dry I found a use-rail that dropped to the shore at a promising cove. There were a few bites and rises but I did not catch fish. Walking north along the shore I ended up back at the trail below my site.
After dinner I scouted the Lost Lake trail junction thinking that I should drop to Lost Lake then next day where there were plenty of campsites in the trees. Then I walked around taking sunset photos and chatted with a fellow who had come through the rain from Titcomb Basin where the rain started before he even got up.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
Wandering Daisy
- Topix Docent
- Posts: 6689
- Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:19 pm
- Experience: N/A
- Location: Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento area)
- Contact:
Re: TR: Wind Rivers 5 Elkhart loop
Day6. 8/28/2023: Pothole Lake (10467) near Titcomb Basin
(7.3 miles, about 7 hours, 1590 feet gain/ 1605 feet loss)
By morning I decided I would take the chance on weather and go up to the much more scenic Titcomb Basin with a side trip to Indian Basin. I left early and walked back to the Lester Pass Trail junction. After ascending 200 feet the Highline Trail turns north. I continued on the Indian Pass Trail to Island Lake and Titcomb Basin, one of the most popular destinations in the Wind Rivers.
At the trail junction to Indian Basin I decided since my pack was light, I would carry it up in case I wanted to camp there. I had forgotten it was 500 feet gain! The weather was perfect, with huge puffy clouds, some looking a bit threatening. I dropped my pack at an established bivy site with a rock wall that had been built for wind protection. I hiked down to Lake 10813, spending about half an hour photographing. It was lovely! When I returned to my pack, as tempting as it was to take the pack and drop back to Lake 10813, I still wanted to fish.
I went back to the Titcomb Basin trial junction and turned south deciding to drop to Pothole Lake, a large lake between Titcomb Basin and Island Lake. A use-trail left the main trail and continued to the far side of the outlet pond where a large tent sat on the only sheltered site. Later I learned that the occupants had been packed in by horse. Well, they did not own the lake, so I found a site out in the open a reasonable distance below them. I took a bath at the inlet waterfall and fished without luck. Later two fellows showed up and climbed on a nearby buttress. Wandering around, I discovered that the use-trail continued past the next waterfall to the shores of Island Lake. All the water draining Titcomb Basin tumbled down a huge waterfall and into Island Lake on the way to the outlet where it was destined to cascade into the deep and wild Fremont Canyon, before filling Fremont Lake.
I climbed back to the tent, grabbed the rod, and spent an hour fishing Island Lake. As I worked my way along the shore, another trail went over a small saddle and to a sheltered cove next to cliffs where I hit the fish hang-out and immediately caught a fat rainbow trout and luckily, was able to land it. I had two more bites but could not land the fish. I cleaned and wrapped my catch in a towel and went back to camp, meeting a bedraggled couple. Someone told them there were campsites down at Island Lake but there are none. Wandering around later I ran into them camped at a small clearing near the upper waterfall a short distance below me.
(7.3 miles, about 7 hours, 1590 feet gain/ 1605 feet loss)
By morning I decided I would take the chance on weather and go up to the much more scenic Titcomb Basin with a side trip to Indian Basin. I left early and walked back to the Lester Pass Trail junction. After ascending 200 feet the Highline Trail turns north. I continued on the Indian Pass Trail to Island Lake and Titcomb Basin, one of the most popular destinations in the Wind Rivers.
At the trail junction to Indian Basin I decided since my pack was light, I would carry it up in case I wanted to camp there. I had forgotten it was 500 feet gain! The weather was perfect, with huge puffy clouds, some looking a bit threatening. I dropped my pack at an established bivy site with a rock wall that had been built for wind protection. I hiked down to Lake 10813, spending about half an hour photographing. It was lovely! When I returned to my pack, as tempting as it was to take the pack and drop back to Lake 10813, I still wanted to fish.
I went back to the Titcomb Basin trial junction and turned south deciding to drop to Pothole Lake, a large lake between Titcomb Basin and Island Lake. A use-trail left the main trail and continued to the far side of the outlet pond where a large tent sat on the only sheltered site. Later I learned that the occupants had been packed in by horse. Well, they did not own the lake, so I found a site out in the open a reasonable distance below them. I took a bath at the inlet waterfall and fished without luck. Later two fellows showed up and climbed on a nearby buttress. Wandering around, I discovered that the use-trail continued past the next waterfall to the shores of Island Lake. All the water draining Titcomb Basin tumbled down a huge waterfall and into Island Lake on the way to the outlet where it was destined to cascade into the deep and wild Fremont Canyon, before filling Fremont Lake.
I climbed back to the tent, grabbed the rod, and spent an hour fishing Island Lake. As I worked my way along the shore, another trail went over a small saddle and to a sheltered cove next to cliffs where I hit the fish hang-out and immediately caught a fat rainbow trout and luckily, was able to land it. I had two more bites but could not land the fish. I cleaned and wrapped my catch in a towel and went back to camp, meeting a bedraggled couple. Someone told them there were campsites down at Island Lake but there are none. Wandering around later I ran into them camped at a small clearing near the upper waterfall a short distance below me.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
Wandering Daisy
- Topix Docent
- Posts: 6689
- Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:19 pm
- Experience: N/A
- Location: Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento area)
- Contact:
Re: TR: Wind Rivers 5 Elkhart loop
Photos from previous day
Day7. 8/29/2023: Miller Lake
(9.2 miles, about 6 hours, 1475 feet gain/ 2215 feet loss)
The sun was shining come morning, but the tent was soaked with dew. I cooked breakfast, leaving the tent up long as possible, wiping it down but it still was a bit wet when packed. I took the use-trail back to the Indian Pass Trail rather than try an off-trail short-cut. Short cuts are often not worth the effort. I met several people going up to Titcomb Basin from their Island Lake camps. My “must reach” location was Eklund Lake but I did not want to go farther than Miller Lake. If I made it to the trailhead late in the day all the first-come campsites would likely be taken at any campground near Pinedale. I walked back the same trails to Seneca Lake and then past Hobbs Lake to the Elkund Lake junction. Tons of people were coming in on the trail, evidently taking advantage of the forecasted good weather for the Labor Day holiday. It was early enough to continue to Miller Lake. Stopping at Photographer’s Point I chatted with a few day-hikers. I have never figured out why anyone would day-hike from Elkhart Trailhead. It is not very scenic and you have to go a long distance to see anything worth the hike. As usual, trail runners were also going in and out. I do not think they care about the scenery but just want the workout.
I found a nice site at Miller Lake and shortly a couple and two other individuals arrived. The couple was there for the same reason I was; they had to drive the next day and there was no point and getting out at dark, too tired to drive. I headed for the lake for a bath but everyone was sitting along the shore. I gathered water and went back to camp. I then took the fishing rod and fished along the shore, hopping over many talus sections until I got far enough for a bath once out of view. I did not catch any fish but caught my fly in a tree. Back at camp the wind picked up and I squeezed the last gas from the stove for dinner. Breakfast would be trail food.
Day8. 8/30/2023: Elkhart TH and camp at Fremont Lake Campground
(3.5 miles, 2 hours, 240 feet gain, 775 feet loss)
All of us were up early and on the trail going out. Again, trail runners and day-hikers as well as more backpackers were going in. Reaching the parking lot, the car started and I drove back to Fremont Lake Campground, paid for a site, and spent the day cleaning up and organizing for the drive home. After dealing with the very wet summer it would be nice to have some extended good weather, but it was time to go. With all the predicted “0 % chance rain that turned into 100% this summer I became a skeptic of In-Reach forecasts.
8/31/2023: Angel Creek CG, Wells Nevada
I left the campground, went into Pinedale and filled up with gas and headed west to Hwy 189 and turned south towards Kemmerer. I still had not decided which route from there; west to Logan and around the north side of the Great Salt Lake, the same way I came; or south to Woodruff and over Monto Cristo Pass to Ogden and then I-80 south of the Great Salt Lake, the route I took. It would be shorter and Monto Cristo and Ogden Canyon were very scenic. The “ugh” part was I-15 Ogden to Salt Lake airport. From there across the salt flats traffic really thinned. Either way I panned on camping again at Angel Creek Campground near Wells Nevada.
9/1-2/2023: Soda Springs, Donner Pass
My daughter and her family were to spend Labor Day weekend at their house in Norden on the shores of Serene Lake near Sugar Bowl Ski Area. She invited me to visit. Near Sparks heavy rain began to fall. It was a horrible mess with all the huge semi-trucks splashing water and puddles that I feared I would hydroplane off. I took a break at a rest stop until the heaviest rain stopped. I remembered that there was a Cabela’s in Boomtown, so stopped there and wandered around the store for a couple hours while more rain poured down outside. Barely to Donner Pass heavy rain began again and took another break at the rest area. I was mighty relieved to reach the Soda Springs exit. At Norden it rained, lightning flashed and thunder rumbled. My daughter and family arrived about 1AM. We had a great visit the next few days and drove home Sunday afternoon, amazed that the traffic was so light. However, it still rained!
Afterthoughts
This was not my most successful summer in the Wind Rivers. To some degree I had to make lemonade out of lemons. I had several pre-planned trip packets with printed maps and travel plans in plastic zip-lock bags. The five trips I completed were chosen at the last minute from the stash of map packets. Between weather and foot problems the routes I preferred did not happen. I continued to hike on an injured ankle but had to be very conservative. The unsettled, very odd weather kept me off high altitude passes and I left the mountains for a road trip during the worst of it.
My dear friends in Lander were unable to have visitors this summer due to serious health problems. I was temporarily “homeless” from July 11 to September 2. Between backpack trips I stayed at campgrounds and “camped” on other friend’s floors a few times. I only took four real showers. Cold bucket-baths while backpacking and solar warmed water at campgrounds worked fine. I had enough clothes to eliminate need of washing except hand washing a few of my favorite backpack clothes in a bucket. Pre-packed backpack food was stored in four bear cans. I brought too much so it was used while car-camping, supplemented with a few fresh groceries and beer. I never ate in a restaurant! Electronics were recharged in libraries, the Post Office lobby and Forest Service office. Wet gear dried hung on open car doors at town parks and the USFS parking lot. The USFS Campgrounds had plenty of first-come sites that were outstanding and affordable at $3 to $7 per night with my senior discount. The BLM campground was free. And did I mention? Sub-$4 per gallon gas!
Finally reading everyone’s Sierra trip reports, I am really looking forward to getting back into the high Sierra next summer, where my own house can be base camp!
Day7. 8/29/2023: Miller Lake
(9.2 miles, about 6 hours, 1475 feet gain/ 2215 feet loss)
The sun was shining come morning, but the tent was soaked with dew. I cooked breakfast, leaving the tent up long as possible, wiping it down but it still was a bit wet when packed. I took the use-trail back to the Indian Pass Trail rather than try an off-trail short-cut. Short cuts are often not worth the effort. I met several people going up to Titcomb Basin from their Island Lake camps. My “must reach” location was Eklund Lake but I did not want to go farther than Miller Lake. If I made it to the trailhead late in the day all the first-come campsites would likely be taken at any campground near Pinedale. I walked back the same trails to Seneca Lake and then past Hobbs Lake to the Elkund Lake junction. Tons of people were coming in on the trail, evidently taking advantage of the forecasted good weather for the Labor Day holiday. It was early enough to continue to Miller Lake. Stopping at Photographer’s Point I chatted with a few day-hikers. I have never figured out why anyone would day-hike from Elkhart Trailhead. It is not very scenic and you have to go a long distance to see anything worth the hike. As usual, trail runners were also going in and out. I do not think they care about the scenery but just want the workout.
I found a nice site at Miller Lake and shortly a couple and two other individuals arrived. The couple was there for the same reason I was; they had to drive the next day and there was no point and getting out at dark, too tired to drive. I headed for the lake for a bath but everyone was sitting along the shore. I gathered water and went back to camp. I then took the fishing rod and fished along the shore, hopping over many talus sections until I got far enough for a bath once out of view. I did not catch any fish but caught my fly in a tree. Back at camp the wind picked up and I squeezed the last gas from the stove for dinner. Breakfast would be trail food.
Day8. 8/30/2023: Elkhart TH and camp at Fremont Lake Campground
(3.5 miles, 2 hours, 240 feet gain, 775 feet loss)
All of us were up early and on the trail going out. Again, trail runners and day-hikers as well as more backpackers were going in. Reaching the parking lot, the car started and I drove back to Fremont Lake Campground, paid for a site, and spent the day cleaning up and organizing for the drive home. After dealing with the very wet summer it would be nice to have some extended good weather, but it was time to go. With all the predicted “0 % chance rain that turned into 100% this summer I became a skeptic of In-Reach forecasts.
8/31/2023: Angel Creek CG, Wells Nevada
I left the campground, went into Pinedale and filled up with gas and headed west to Hwy 189 and turned south towards Kemmerer. I still had not decided which route from there; west to Logan and around the north side of the Great Salt Lake, the same way I came; or south to Woodruff and over Monto Cristo Pass to Ogden and then I-80 south of the Great Salt Lake, the route I took. It would be shorter and Monto Cristo and Ogden Canyon were very scenic. The “ugh” part was I-15 Ogden to Salt Lake airport. From there across the salt flats traffic really thinned. Either way I panned on camping again at Angel Creek Campground near Wells Nevada.
9/1-2/2023: Soda Springs, Donner Pass
My daughter and her family were to spend Labor Day weekend at their house in Norden on the shores of Serene Lake near Sugar Bowl Ski Area. She invited me to visit. Near Sparks heavy rain began to fall. It was a horrible mess with all the huge semi-trucks splashing water and puddles that I feared I would hydroplane off. I took a break at a rest stop until the heaviest rain stopped. I remembered that there was a Cabela’s in Boomtown, so stopped there and wandered around the store for a couple hours while more rain poured down outside. Barely to Donner Pass heavy rain began again and took another break at the rest area. I was mighty relieved to reach the Soda Springs exit. At Norden it rained, lightning flashed and thunder rumbled. My daughter and family arrived about 1AM. We had a great visit the next few days and drove home Sunday afternoon, amazed that the traffic was so light. However, it still rained!
Afterthoughts
This was not my most successful summer in the Wind Rivers. To some degree I had to make lemonade out of lemons. I had several pre-planned trip packets with printed maps and travel plans in plastic zip-lock bags. The five trips I completed were chosen at the last minute from the stash of map packets. Between weather and foot problems the routes I preferred did not happen. I continued to hike on an injured ankle but had to be very conservative. The unsettled, very odd weather kept me off high altitude passes and I left the mountains for a road trip during the worst of it.
My dear friends in Lander were unable to have visitors this summer due to serious health problems. I was temporarily “homeless” from July 11 to September 2. Between backpack trips I stayed at campgrounds and “camped” on other friend’s floors a few times. I only took four real showers. Cold bucket-baths while backpacking and solar warmed water at campgrounds worked fine. I had enough clothes to eliminate need of washing except hand washing a few of my favorite backpack clothes in a bucket. Pre-packed backpack food was stored in four bear cans. I brought too much so it was used while car-camping, supplemented with a few fresh groceries and beer. I never ate in a restaurant! Electronics were recharged in libraries, the Post Office lobby and Forest Service office. Wet gear dried hung on open car doors at town parks and the USFS parking lot. The USFS Campgrounds had plenty of first-come sites that were outstanding and affordable at $3 to $7 per night with my senior discount. The BLM campground was free. And did I mention? Sub-$4 per gallon gas!
Finally reading everyone’s Sierra trip reports, I am really looking forward to getting back into the high Sierra next summer, where my own house can be base camp!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
wildhiker
- Topix Fanatic
- Posts: 1114
- Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2011 4:44 pm
- Experience: Level 4 Explorer
- Location: Palo Alto, CA
- Contact:
Re: TR: Wind Rivers 5 Elkhart loop
@WD: I really enjoyed reading all five of your 2023 Wind Rivers trip reports. Although you mentioned disappointments and bad weather, I still envy your seven weeks in such beautiful mountains!
-Phil
-Phil
-
Wandering Daisy
- Topix Docent
- Posts: 6689
- Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:19 pm
- Experience: N/A
- Location: Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento area)
- Contact:
Re: TR: Wind Rivers 5 Elkhart loop
Sorry for replying so late. Thanks for reading the trip reports.
I am an obsessive planner. Although I can easily adapt to changes in trips as I did this summer, it is always disappointing to spend so much energy on planning trips I REALLY want to do, and then settle for substitutes. In retrospect, the weather was not that unusual or bad. I was a bit more skittish due to my foot problems and to be honest, older age. I certainly was more willing to take a chance when younger although I can still walk the miles. I am less able to carry a heavy pack so adding gear needed for the more difficult passes and doing trips more than 8 days are more difficult for me. And I really need a new tent! And new shoes!
I am limping along with a lot of worn-out gear right now. I am sure you can relate- do you spend $$$ to get new gear without knowing if you even will be able to backpack much longer? I have a closet full of workable but heavy old gear. I did splurge on a new pack this summer. And inflation, gas prices, fixed retirement income... What do we do??
I am an obsessive planner. Although I can easily adapt to changes in trips as I did this summer, it is always disappointing to spend so much energy on planning trips I REALLY want to do, and then settle for substitutes. In retrospect, the weather was not that unusual or bad. I was a bit more skittish due to my foot problems and to be honest, older age. I certainly was more willing to take a chance when younger although I can still walk the miles. I am less able to carry a heavy pack so adding gear needed for the more difficult passes and doing trips more than 8 days are more difficult for me. And I really need a new tent! And new shoes!
I am limping along with a lot of worn-out gear right now. I am sure you can relate- do you spend $$$ to get new gear without knowing if you even will be able to backpack much longer? I have a closet full of workable but heavy old gear. I did splurge on a new pack this summer. And inflation, gas prices, fixed retirement income... What do we do??
-
robertseeburger
- Topix Expert
- Posts: 423
- Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2011 6:53 pm
- Experience: Level 4 Explorer
- Location: San Mateo Ca
Re: TR: Wind Rivers 5 Elkhart loop
I finally read trip 5.. (now have head each of them.. I guess I am a slow reader..but I dont skim your reports...) I read the whole thing and for some of them I follow along with a map!). This one ..trip 5.. I didnt need a map because I have basically done this itinerary and can remember.
Glad to see there are goldens in Upper Cook lake! Not many people know this is where the world record golden was caught 80 years ago..11 pounds.
It has of course been over run with brook trout since. I caught a bunch of small brook trout in one of my visits there, and then I saw..and caught..a nice golden too. It was my first trip to the winds..and I didnt even know the history.
I splurged and bought new sleeping bag and tent last year.. ( I think they will be my last)..
I have been trying to make do for a long time. I save a little weight on them. I understand the cost/longevity/weight dilemma though.
But it felt good to make the move.
I have been reading all your trip reports..not just with interest but thinking about next year's trip.
Lots of enjoyment planning for this. Combination of new territory, good fishing, not many people.. lots to think about.
Glad to see there are goldens in Upper Cook lake! Not many people know this is where the world record golden was caught 80 years ago..11 pounds.
It has of course been over run with brook trout since. I caught a bunch of small brook trout in one of my visits there, and then I saw..and caught..a nice golden too. It was my first trip to the winds..and I didnt even know the history.
I splurged and bought new sleeping bag and tent last year.. ( I think they will be my last)..
I have been trying to make do for a long time. I save a little weight on them. I understand the cost/longevity/weight dilemma though.
But it felt good to make the move.
I have been reading all your trip reports..not just with interest but thinking about next year's trip.
Lots of enjoyment planning for this. Combination of new territory, good fishing, not many people.. lots to think about.
-
Harlen
- Topix Addict
- Posts: 2098
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:13 am
- Experience: Level 4 Explorer
- Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
Re: TR: Wind Rivers 5 Elkhart loop
Wow Nancy, if that itinerary was a second option, then we just have to geet back to the Winds!!! I just love the look of the high country above Island Lake. Never been to the famed Titcomb Basin, partly because I reckon it'll be very crowded; but it does look some of the very best mountain scenery anywhere!
Your photos are really fine again-- favorites (there are too many) began with "Ecklund Lake," then "Up Cook Lake, south end by trail," "Up Cook Lake near outlet".... and then there were too many to list. That one wide-angle shot: "Pothole Lake outlet pond view towards Tit. Basin" is fantastic when expanded-- many of my later favorites are the wide-angle ones.
Anyhow, lest I carry on like an wide-eyed, obsequious fanboy, (which I guess I am becoming
let me stop now, but add that your solo travels, and your toughness, really are inspiring. Cheers, Ian.
Your photos are really fine again-- favorites (there are too many) began with "Ecklund Lake," then "Up Cook Lake, south end by trail," "Up Cook Lake near outlet".... and then there were too many to list. That one wide-angle shot: "Pothole Lake outlet pond view towards Tit. Basin" is fantastic when expanded-- many of my later favorites are the wide-angle ones.
Anyhow, lest I carry on like an wide-eyed, obsequious fanboy, (which I guess I am becoming
let me stop now, but add that your solo travels, and your toughness, really are inspiring. Cheers, Ian.Properly trained, a man can be dog’s best friend.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 47 guests