TR: Fun from Hell For Sure to Little Lucifer, with Davis, Wanda, Goddard, and Gunsight Too!  9/21 - 9/30/ 2023

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Harlen
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TR: Fun from Hell For Sure to Little Lucifer, with Davis, Wanda, Goddard, and Gunsight Too!  9/21 - 9/30/ 2023

Post by Harlen »

My wife and I, plus our long-time friend and backpacking partner Carleton, made another fall trip into the western Sierra. This time, as our loosely planned route unfolded, we found ourselves unexpectedly deep in the range.  We went as far east as Wanda Lake in Evolution Valley, and crossed from there into the middle of Ionian Basin.  We had a wilderness permit for Courtright Reservoir/Maxon trailhead, but were still undecided about making a circular trip back there, or trying to drop our car down at Wishon Res./Woodchuck TH., and hiking back out that way.  Depending on that decision, we would either spend  more time in the LeConte and White Divide area, with a jaunt into Goddard Canyon, and possibly Davis Lakes, or head farther south quickly, following Wandering Daisy's route over Mantle Pass to Blue Canyon, and on to Tunemah Lake.  As it went, we were a bit late on the road, and the hopeful car shuttle and hitchhike was still uncertain, and would have cut deeper into our first day, so we went with the plan to circle back to Maxon TH.


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I reckon we'll go over there.... Somewhere.



We often do not have firm route plans, and this time that worked out really well.  We had a lot of Daisy's 2022 trip report in our heads, and thought of visiting Devil's Punchbowl first, where she had good luck with the fish.  But the cross country route across the branches of Fleming Creek looked like an up and down tangle of forest. Talking it over, we realized that though we have all longed to get to Davis Lakes, none of us had made it yet. So this time we resolved to get in there, and that meant a re-route over Hell For Sure Pass, and directly on to Davis Lakes.  We also hoped to see Martha Lake again, and get to Lake Confusion for the first time.  We would return via the Lucifer Passes, and spend that last few days lower down by Devil's Punchbowl instead.  This seemed wise, as by then we might need to cook over a fire, and be warm in the evening.  It had been very cold on our first night-- the 21st, and we could foresee the benefit of fires at our last camps. 


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Here's where we actually went: [You can click twice in the field of the map to expand it, and at the largest expansion you can scroll up and down, and using the bar at the bottom of the screen, you can move side to side. (This explanation is only for techno-peasants like me, I don't mean to insult you other's intelligence.] :( )



We made H.F.S Lake on the second day, and had a record run of small fish fishing-- (damn you windknot).  I believe I actually had a 10 straight run of landed fish, and we all were busy catching and releasing the smaller of the small brookies.  Average size of the keepers, if I am honest for once, was about 7.5 inches, ....or perhaps a bit less.  Is HFS Lake one of those areas where one can keep more than 5 fish each?  This small, but voracious fish thing happened to us again late in our trip over in the Bench Valley lakes.  We would have to try very hard-- reeling as fast as possible, to avoid catching the little peckerwood fish that were madly chasing our lures!  In the past, in my persisting ignorance, I have often retrieved spinning lures ever so slowly, to make it easier for the fish to catch up to them.  I now know that hungry fish can catch up to a lure screaming through the water!  We learned the painful lesson that cleaning one or two big fish is preferable to fiddling about with a score of little guys.  Later on, in the lakes with Golden Trout, we had better results, but still nothing to hold up to windknot, or Robert, and brag about.  We met just one solitary person while at Martha Lake, and he happened to be a passionate fisherman-- the Golden Trout emblem on his cap and t-shirt gave me the clue.  He said something that I may have to take to my ignominious grave: "I can't seem to catch a fish small enough to keep for dinner." :( He had been jigging up 3+ pounders from the deep spots of Martha's rocky south shore, and releasing them for lack of partners to share them with!  He gave me one of his favorite lures-- a rubbery, inch-long thing that is slipped around a weighted hook deal.  He coats this with some liquid attractant, and lowers it into the deep spots, ala robertseesburger, and teases up these monsters, which he shared the photos of on his cellphone.  (And I now have another reason not to own a cellphone-- only small fish to show.)  Later on, I lost this magic new lure, either to a giant fish, or the deep rocks.


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Mt. Hutton at dawn.


  
The weather on this 10 day trip was fascinating.  We had almost zero wind until the very last day.  Any slight breath of wind during the day would cease completely in the evening, and every morning we had glassy smooth lakes with the reflections of mountains in them.  Even the giant Davis, and Martha Lakes were dead calm.  And after the very first day, and up until the last, the sky was clear and blue.  When the hailstorm finally broke on our heads as we walked out to our car, we rejoiced in the new weather, even though our hands were wet and freezing.  Carleton here is a Boletus mushroom addict, and couldn't pass a fresh one by; so our walk out under the rough weather took far longer than necessary.  All told, we amassed well over 10 lbs.-- perhaps closer to 20! We had already eaten 5 lbs. of boletes with our dinners on the first three nights of the trip.  So we actually caught far more weight in King Boletes than Trout, which is a Pyrrhic victory if ever there was one.


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First to Red Mountain Basin... if we can get past all the Boletes.



The good news is that we finally made it into Davis Lakes, and it was wonderful!  We also made it up to Lake Confusion, and over Gunsight Pass for the first time, and Carleton and Lizzie got into Evo. Valley and Ionian Basin!  All great efforts, and in Ionian Basin, we felt we were lucky to have made our way around icy steep snowfields, and up some pretty cliffy rock routes in order to extricate ourselves from that tricky place.  The descent from Wanda Pass was the single sketchiest piece of work, and we hustled to avoid being benighted on cliffy ground.  We had been warned away from Ionian by Andrzej/Andrew, the wild solo trekker met on the way to Red Mountain Basin.  He was coming back from his ambitious Tunemah Lake trip.. He had a strong desire to explore Ionian Basin, but considered it a bad bet this year, under such lingering snowfields.  Andrzej is a sensible solo hiker.  We gave it a try ourselves, and though it really was a challenging maze, we were very happy to be in there. 

Our final route change was to forgo the camping and fishing at Devil's Punchbowl, and the fun crossing of the two Lucifer Passes to reach there.  Instead, we crossed what we are calling "Little Lucifer," which is the lower saddle just west of the real Lucifers.  While crossing there, we stumbled into an amazing "quartz garden" which I had once read about.  Does anyone know of it?  Just an unbelievable repository of all kinds of quartz, from rose to honeycomb, to shockingly clear, and also some unique, water-smoothed quartz, polished by the high western tributary of Fall Creek that runs right over it.  It is surely the largest outcrop of quartz we had ever seen!  We were happily stuck there-- mesmerized for over an hour.  So we had a few adventures, and saw some new and lovely sights.  I think we all enjoyed re-creating the route, and watching it unfold as we went.  I'd better get on with the photos-- there will be a lot of them, as we were all snapping away, and Carleton has a sharp I-phone camera far superior to our little Kodaks. 


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Fleming Lake.


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Lovely little Tree Frog/ now aka "Chorus Frog."


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Gentiana newberryi, Alpine gentian.


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Late blooming Gentians were everywhere!


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Catching and cleaning fish-- mostly cleaning. 



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Goddard Canyon.
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Last edited by Harlen on Wed Oct 18, 2023 2:43 pm, edited 12 times in total.
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TR: Fun from Hell For Sure to Little Lucifer, with Davis, Wanda, Goddard, and Gunsight Too!  9/21 - 9/30/ 2023

Post by Harlen »

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Believe it or not, before this Bald Eagle flew right over us, lower down in the valley two Peregrine Falcons, with their talons locked together, went screaming through the canyon, at our eye level!  


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Nearly to Davis Lakes.


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Davis Lakes at last!  The blue arrow marks one route option-- around that inverted snow triangle, then straight on to Martha Lake, about 2-3 miles away.


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Our other option marked in red-- that's Wanda Pass, which would drop us south into Ionian Basin.  This would involve 3 ridge crossings, and at least 7 miles.  


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We did a bit of fishing for Goldens in lower Davis Lake.  Again, I am shamelessly trying to expand the size of my fish.  If I ever catch a truly big fish I promise to stop this BS' ing.


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This is, of course, the new 4" long Kastmaster.


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We stayed in Davis Lake basin for 2 nights, and moved our camp from the lower lake to the top of the upper Davis Lake.  Campsites were hard to find.


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Another calm dawn, with Mt Magee reflected.


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Carleton's pano from above the jade green lake 11,196. (Click to expand) This image shows the fascinating geology, with the contact between two formations.  The lighter granitic fm. ranges roughly to the NE-- at least the apparent line of the contact in this area runs southeast to northwest. The older metamorphic fm. includes most of Goddard Divide, Ionian Basin, and Black Divide, and the granitic fm. connects with the granites of Evolution Valley.  I'm sure it is a lot more complex than this, perhaps with converging granitic plutons of different ages, so you real geologists please chime in. (*Contacts marked with red lines)
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Last edited by Harlen on Tue Oct 17, 2023 9:12 am, edited 7 times in total.
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TR: Fun from Hell For Sure to Little Lucifer, with Davis, Wanda, Goddard, and Gunsight Too!  9/21 - 9/30/ 2023

Post by Harlen »

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I was immediately struck by the stark, and rocky nature of the basin. In the past, I have looked down on Davis Lakes from the pass we were on now, and also from the crossing that leads south across to Martha Lake. I was misguided by the one lush area I saw at the top of Lake 11,196, which can be seen in the photo six places back. In fact, I believe that the only other semi-large bit of vegetated ground is the one we camped near at the top of the upper Davis Lake. Are there other meadows, and established bareground camping sites?



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Looking into Evolution Valley.



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 Carleton's panorama, looking east from Davis Lakes Pass.  The view includes the Mendel-Darwin wall (far left), through Mt. Huxley and Warlow, with Black Giant in the distance.  The snowy saddle is Wanda Pass, and finally Mt. Goddard and its two satellite peaks.


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On Wanda Lake.


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And now above it.



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Scylla right, Charybdis left, and Enchanted Gorge in between.
We descended from Wanda Pass to Lake 11,837, and camped 150' above it.  We could see that there was no hiking along either shore of the lake, so we climbed above it, luckily finding a body-width melt crack between the rock and the snowfield.  We found our way around the steeper snow to a point above and NW of lake 11,818.  From there we connected snowfields NW to reach Goddard Creek Pass (or some spot on the ridge), and went down to Martha Lake from there.  It had been awhile since I'd gone this way through Ionian Basin, I almost made the mistake of being drawn into the low point where the tight gully opens up into an invitingly lush little meadow.  Looking closely, we agreed that it looked suspiciously airy beyond that flat, and so we went uphill to the north to descend NW down to Martha Lake.  This is the best way up or down, and we ran into the first use trails we'd seen for a long while.


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We descended the awkward talus slope, route marked in red.


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Mt. Charybdis.


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We were forced to go high up over the ridge to avoid the possibility of a slide into the lake.
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Last edited by Harlen on Tue Oct 17, 2023 9:52 am, edited 9 times in total.
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TR: Fun from Hell For Sure to Little Lucifer, with Davis, Wanda, Goddard, and Gunsight Too!  9/21 - 9/30/ 2023

Post by Harlen »

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There was fun climbing to be had on the way, though Lizzie ripped her pants by using her inimical sliding down technique.


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Flowers lightened the often rugged path.


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Granite Draba.


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Some Sky Pilot was still hanging in there.


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Lake 11,818', which pours steeply down into Goddard Creek. Finger Peak in the far left of the frame.


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The most frozen lake was the one to the west-- Lake~12,080.'


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Above long Lake 11,951 we found a nice, levelish snow route that took us nearly all the way to the top of Goddard Ridge-- seen here in the upper left, with Mt. Goddard's south slope to the right.


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The west side of the ridge was all easy. 


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TR: Fun from Hell For Sure to Little Lucifer, with Davis, Wanda, Goddard, and Gunsight Too!  9/21 - 9/30/ 2023

Post by Harlen »

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 Sunrise from Martha Lake, with a view of our next objective-- up to Confusion Lake, and over Gunsight Pass.


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First some fishing in the big lake.


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The competition.  Last time I was here I found a huge fish, just under the water, and almost torn in half by either an Osprey or a Bald Eagle.


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Pika, and as with the Eagle, the photo is taken using Carleton's telephoto technique of I-phone through binoculars, with predictably blurry results.



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Carleton, smilingly happy in one of his very favorite parts of the Sierra... and still high on his first Ionian adventure.  


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Lake Confusion for the night


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Next morning, after yet another perfectly calm night.


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Gunsight Pass still to come.  It had a cornice filling much of the pass, but we found a way through the boulders to the left of it.


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On that day (Day 8), we traversed over to begin the climb up Gunsight pass.



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(Click on image to expand) We had this grand view back down Goddard Canyon.  Lake Confusion is in the far left; then Peak ~11,160', just north of Gunsight Pass; then (mid-distance) Mt. McGee; on to Mt. Goddard, with Martha Lake below.  Beneath the south side of Mt. McGee is North Goddard Creek, where we arrived on Day 3.  We made a short, but pretty wild circle around Mt. Goddard, and the U-shaped saddle below Mt. God., and above Martha Lake, was our retreat route from Ionian Basin.  Right here is Carleton's shadow, on the ridge above Lake Confusion.
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Last edited by Harlen on Tue Oct 17, 2023 4:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
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TR: Fun from Hell For Sure to Little Lucifer, with Davis, Wanda, Goddard, and Gunsight Too!  9/21 - 9/30/ 2023

Post by Harlen »

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View west from Gunsight Pass.


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We camped beside Holster Lake, which was beautiful, but filled with brookie minnows! (Cl. Image)


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Carleton's artful water image.


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Shooting Stars flowers.


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A Shooting Star riot!


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We were really back in the flowers again; these are Sierra Wallflowers.


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This is the "quartz garden," with "Little Lucifer Pass" above.


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The real Lucifer Pass above the quartz outcrop.


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It's hard to capture the beauty of the water-carved quartz-- you have to feel it.


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View back east to Gunsight Pass and upper Bench Valley.  "Quartz garden" below and left.


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Looking down from "Little Lucifer" to Meadow Brook Creek, and on down to the North Fork of the Kings.


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The weather finally turned stormy for us. We hiked into the dark almost to the Post Corral Creek crossing.
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Last edited by Harlen on Tue Oct 17, 2023 10:02 am, edited 3 times in total.
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TR: Fun from Hell For Sure to Little Lucifer, with Davis, Wanda, Goddard, and Gunsight Too!  9/21 - 9/30/ 2023

Post by Harlen »

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Full circle-- this is same sign we passed on Day 1. 


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Post Corral Creek in hail.


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The crossing rocks.


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More hail!


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It was a very cold hike out, but a nice change in scenery.


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We're lucky to have made it out of the woods, stopping for every bolete, and then staggering under their weight!


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On the drive home, we saw almost enough clouds to make up for all of the pure blue days.


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As mentioned above, this route became something of a moveable feast-- a journey full of unexpected pleasures.  Originally, we had hoped to finally explore Davis Lakes Basin, and then make our way to Martha Lake.  Lake Confusion was to be the other new goal on our original route.  Thankfully, we reached those two wonderfully scenic places, but then we got to include parts of Evolution Valley and Ionian Basin, which were amazing surprise additions to our trip, and we were all really stoked to get in there.  It was nice for a change to have the great weather, and also to feel fit enough to actually extend a route, and add more adventures, rather than having to succumb to my more usual lack of fitness, and cut out hoped-for loops and mountain climbs.  

All the way along, we pretty much had these magical places to ourselves.  After the first day, we only met the Spartan solo traveler Andrzej, coming back from Tunemah Lake.  That was in the early morning of Day 2, and it was a real pleasure, and we hope to meet him again.  After that, no one except for a few JMT trail folk far in the distance, and one nearer guy, who cruised by us on Davis Lakes Pass.  We then had three days till our enjoyable meeting with the big fish fisherman on the shores of Martha Lake.  After that nice meeting, nobody at all till the Maxon trailhead lot.  We were a bit surprised, as hunting season was in full swing, and we had seen at least 4 Deer along the trail.  We hoped for Coyotes, Badgers and Bears, but saw none.  Marmot, Deer, Pika, Squirrel and Chipmunks were our only mammals, but we did have pretty fantastic luck with the raptors, and frogs, and pollywogs too, graced the watery meadows.   I hope some of you were also out for those amazingly calm and clear days at the end of September.  It was very fine. 
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Last edited by Harlen on Tue Oct 17, 2023 9:35 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: TR: Fun from Hell For Sure to Little Lucifer, with Davis, Wanda, Goddard, and Gunsight Too!  9/21 - 9/30/ 2023

Post by Wandering Daisy »

What a beautiful loop! Ionian Basin snow conditions looked a lot like a late August trip I took way back in the late 1990's after a high snow year - first year I had moved to California, so I got the idea that these were normal conditions. Now I know these are rare conditions and I am so glad to have experienced it. I took an ice axe but no crampons. Used the ice axe a lot! Also day-hiked a loop down into Enchanted Gorge. Belly rolled across snow bridges. On that trip I tried to catch a huge fish in Davis Lake but no luck. I camped on what probably was the only patch of grass, so there is one in the Davis Lake basin. What luck on the weather. Glad you got out and were only hailed on the last day.
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Re: TR: Fun from Hell For Sure to Little Lucifer, with Davis, Wanda, Goddard, and Gunsight Too!  9/21 - 9/30/ 2023

Post by sekihiker »

Wow! What an adventure. Well planned and long trip. Thanks for posting.
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Re: TR: Fun from Hell For Sure to Little Lucifer, with Davis, Wanda, Goddard, and Gunsight Too!  9/21 - 9/30/ 2023

Post by LMBSGV »

Wow! What an adventure. Well planned and long trip. Thanks for posting.
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